kattanh3

If we lower the temperature of air pulled by (the same) induction system, we stand to gain power. To me, this is a fact so theoretically cold air induction systems should provide better hp gains than drop in filters. So far there aren't notable hp gains due to engine heat, the biggest enemy of an induction kit.

I am just thinking out loud here… so why not use a cone filter and isolate it in the bottom corner of the engine bay (so the filter is behind the fog lights area for example) away from the engine heat. and then have a cold air feed from the lower grill, or even better from the unused black plastic area in the fog lights triangle?



illmike, I hope you don’t mind me using your sexy car for illustration

Zexnos

I have played around with this idea some and there are some things to consider.

1. I have been pulling some data and at 50 MPH, the air intake temps are only 5 degrees higher than the ambient air.

2. I am not 100% on this, but locating a filter and piping in either of those areas would require cutting some metal.

3. Placing the filter in the area next to the fog light would place it in the brake cooling duct.


Just some info to think about.

iSuxeL

iTrader: (21)

The only way to create a CAI is to cut a hole. That's why there are no CAI for our cars. If you're willing to do this then all you would have to do is get another piece of piping to extend the current intake further and that's it.

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

I agree this is an easy mod if you are willing to cut the hole for it I really dont think you will see the gains you are wanting. Probably a better mod for John with the S/C then anyone else here.

iSuxeL

iTrader: (21)

Actually you have no choice but to cut it if you have a SC LOL

HKS350

iTrader: (4)

Already been done on my IS. Used a JoeZ pipe from my old IS300 and a Honda Civic intake. Cut a hole under the factory airbox and installed a blitz metal filter. I also picked up a flex pipe(from the local auto parts store) and cut a hole the same size as the pipe in my brake air duct. Flexed into the filter inlet. Works great. On cold days after the cars been idling for a while the JoeZ pipe stays ice cold to touch. 100% of the air comes from the finder well or the brake duct. ***** You have to use a metal only filter***** if you use a filter media type then when you drive in the rain the water will soak into the media and car will stall. Metal no problems. Just don't drive through puddles deeper than the fog lights.

mikes rx

iTrader: (14)

^ I thought that you had done this to your car....but I couldn't remember your new screen name :stickpoke:

montgb

iTrader: (7)

That sounds cool. Any pics or dyno? Feel anything with the butt-dyno?

kattanh3

Glad to know that it has been done please share pix/threads.

1. Would increasing the air intake diameter allow increased airflow?
2. With my environment being harsh and hot, what piping material do you recommend? I am guessing silicone/rubber components might melt
3. Why not use Air Bypass Valves rather than switching to metal filter? If located between the conical filter and the sensors it should protect your engine once your intake is submerged in water. You can place the bypass at the OEM filter's location to get the best of both methods


AEM Air Bypass Valves

Giggity

Amazing....
As long as the whole filter on a stick fad has been around and have been proven to make gains so small it's hardly worth the price and/or the work, people are still trying to squeeze blood from the proverbial stone.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Believe it or not, this is to your benefit. Did you measure the air temperature difference at WOT or only at cruise? Warmer air at cruising speeds give you better thermal efficiency (read gas mileage), so reducing intake temperatures at cruising speeds would be BAD.

There is only ONE time when cold air going in means more power - AT WOT. If you don't drive at WOT all the time, cold air won't do anything but cost you more gas money.

So, go back and datalog IAT at WOT, and tell us what you find. I'm betting you get <1 degree F between ambient and IAT.

badx33

iTrader: (53)

sounds interesting, would this make the intake louder also?

g0tpersian

Hey, so I wanna give this a try and move my intake down by my intercooler/down by my right headlight.

How do I do it and what do I need?

I currently have a K&N short ram intake.

HKS350

iTrader: (4)

Forgot I posted here, Ha. This mod has no proven gains that I know of. I like the way it sounds compared to the short ram. I'm not into the loud under hood noise. This moves all the noise outside the engine bay. Sounds 10x's better IMO. I haven't noticed any MPG diff. but I only drive the car about once a week or 10 miles a week. To perform this mod you'll need a stainless metal filter and another cheap intake pipe. I used a civic pipe from the auto parts store. You just extend into the finder under the headlight. This is a mod I enjoy and never planned on sharing. So negative comments not needed. I have no plans on arguing the point of this type of intake. All I will say is a longer pipe has different flows characteristics than a short ram, if you have any questions about cold air intakes get intouch with AEM. they have proven gains using cold air intakes for years.txs......

BTW those bypass filters fail often. If the structure was made of metal they work better. The underhood temps deform the plastic material

HKS350

iTrader: (4)

I wonder how his comes into play with this DI motor? The DI injector spray pattern kinda makes thermal efficiency not matter so much. I can see how it helps with the port injectors tho.