Whats wrong with $600 ebay turbo kits?
10-16-08, 09:46 AM
#17
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actually the price went up to on the turbo kits. its about 1700 at clubna-t. jeff's right you are going to have to custom frab the pipings and quality is not at the highest. or if you plan on bolting up the turbo kit yourself you can check out jeffs turbo build volume 1
. for example if you you get the turbo kit on ebay, you might want to get a better wastegate and a better turbo(i have a shop that installs turbos and we have gone thru many cheap turbos where the seals blow and internal wastegate leaking), and bov. you would still have to get the electronics. AEM Fic, boost guage, airfuel, and etc. and then you need to go muffler shop to get a flex pipe put in. and then you would need tuning from a shop which might cost about $120/hour. turbo kit is going to cost about $2500 complete or so.
or another idea is to purchase a cheap intake from ebay and use that intake piping as your maf clamp.
. for example if you you get the turbo kit on ebay, you might want to get a better wastegate and a better turbo(i have a shop that installs turbos and we have gone thru many cheap turbos where the seals blow and internal wastegate leaking), and bov. you would still have to get the electronics. AEM Fic, boost guage, airfuel, and etc. and then you need to go muffler shop to get a flex pipe put in. and then you would need tuning from a shop which might cost about $120/hour. turbo kit is going to cost about $2500 complete or so.
You will also need a MAF flange or pipe with one welded on
10-16-08, 10:08 AM
#22
your car is vvti correct? okay.
2jzGTE non-vvti will run you at least 2k, not to mention all the extra work to make the non-vvti compatible with your vvti car.
2jzGTE VVTi will run you at least 3k, probably more in the range of 4k.
this is not including all the extra parts you will need, custom fab work on motor mounts, etc.
na-t is definitely more economical. especially if it's a fully bolt-onable kit for only 1200. SRTs kit will run you about 6000, I know jeff said he's considering putting together/selling a kit for around 4000, suprastore has a kit for 1600 but you need the 400 dollar AEM FIC to make it work with the VVTi engine.
obviously doing it yourself will save a ton of $$ but like many people have said and will say, you gotta pay to play, and going fast in a luxo-boat that was never meant to do so is no exception.
10-17-08, 08:15 AM
#24
I've been looking into boosting for some time and there are really three options for the GS3, others will surely chime in:
inexpensive route:
XS Engineering
The Supra Store
$1,500-2,000
They both have kits that can be fabricated by a good mod shop
Medium route:
Turbonetics, HKS, LMS, or another main line (and I use that term as a differentiator), there aren't many of these kits around these days. These are going to be found used for the most part. $4,200-$5,00 new if you can find them.
A little more expensive and not for the faint of heart:
Swift Racing Turbo kit - $7,000 installed ($5,600 if you can do your own labor). These are bad a$&!!
I wish we had an application like the Aussies with the Garrett. I'm not an authority but I do know this, put that $600 S^%T on your ride and you will jack your 2JZ-GE up!
Edit:
There's also the NA-tune route which could be fulfilling but the HP gains are not as substantial. Intake, headers (Mazzuri), exhaust (cat back), fuel management, upgraded electronics, etc. so on
inexpensive route:
XS Engineering
The Supra Store
$1,500-2,000
They both have kits that can be fabricated by a good mod shop
Medium route:
Turbonetics, HKS, LMS, or another main line (and I use that term as a differentiator), there aren't many of these kits around these days. These are going to be found used for the most part. $4,200-$5,00 new if you can find them.
A little more expensive and not for the faint of heart:
Swift Racing Turbo kit - $7,000 installed ($5,600 if you can do your own labor). These are bad a$&!!
I wish we had an application like the Aussies with the Garrett. I'm not an authority but I do know this, put that $600 S^%T on your ride and you will jack your 2JZ-GE up!
Edit:
There's also the NA-tune route which could be fulfilling but the HP gains are not as substantial. Intake, headers (Mazzuri), exhaust (cat back), fuel management, upgraded electronics, etc. so on
Last edited by ZippyGuy; 10-17-08 at 08:18 AM.
10-17-08, 04:17 PM
#25
Turbo GS
Compression for GS300 10.5:1
Part of an article from dune-buggy.com
Would be interesting to hear from those who have turbocharged GS300, what they did, and how their motor is holding up.
Why is low compression better for a Turbocharged Engine?
You make horsepower by how much air you move through the motor. A high compression 10:1 engine is more efficient than a 7:1 engine, so the 10:1 engine gives you more bang for the buck. However, because the lower compression is not as efficient, it will move more air through it. So, at 15 PSI of boost, the 7:1 engine will have an effective compression ratio of 14:1, will not be into detonation, and be moving more air, making more horsepower than the same conditions for the 10:1 engine. That engine will be in self-destruct mode, have detonation, and an effective compression ratio of 20:1!
This is why the racers only run 5:1 or even 6:1. All of this is great for a drag car, but because the static compression is lower, you will not have much bottom end torque either. So, since most of us don't drag race every place we go, a good compromise would be 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. This way you don't loose too much bottom end for driveability, and if you don't run too much boost, say 10 to 15 PSI, you stay away from the gray effective compression area of 15:1 and up.
Remember, that the shape of the combustion area, cam, type of fuel, etc. all play a part of when the engine starts to detonate. It comes down to start with low boost, and sneak it up from there until you run into problems
Part of an article from dune-buggy.com
Would be interesting to hear from those who have turbocharged GS300, what they did, and how their motor is holding up.
Why is low compression better for a Turbocharged Engine?
You make horsepower by how much air you move through the motor. A high compression 10:1 engine is more efficient than a 7:1 engine, so the 10:1 engine gives you more bang for the buck. However, because the lower compression is not as efficient, it will move more air through it. So, at 15 PSI of boost, the 7:1 engine will have an effective compression ratio of 14:1, will not be into detonation, and be moving more air, making more horsepower than the same conditions for the 10:1 engine. That engine will be in self-destruct mode, have detonation, and an effective compression ratio of 20:1!
This is why the racers only run 5:1 or even 6:1. All of this is great for a drag car, but because the static compression is lower, you will not have much bottom end torque either. So, since most of us don't drag race every place we go, a good compromise would be 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. This way you don't loose too much bottom end for driveability, and if you don't run too much boost, say 10 to 15 PSI, you stay away from the gray effective compression area of 15:1 and up.
Remember, that the shape of the combustion area, cam, type of fuel, etc. all play a part of when the engine starts to detonate. It comes down to start with low boost, and sneak it up from there until you run into problems
10-17-08, 04:26 PM
#26
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well i heard that these blocks can hold up to about 500-600 hp. and the tranny can hold up to about 375 and then have to upgrade valve body to hold higher horsepower. or have a fully built tranny.
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