JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Not the best idea in the world to run meth only. What happens if your pump stops functioning and you don't know it. Or if you run low on fluid(but not low enough to kick on the low fluid level warning) and get air in the lines after hitting a bump? That will stop methanol flow for a a second or two. Not good if you happen to be under full boost.

Running a FMIC is the way to go if you want guaranteed cooling. There are guys that argue against this, but for a street cars it's the best option. For an all out drag car, a water-air intercooler might be better because you can add an ice box to drop the intake temp very low.

Not a good idea unless you want to spend a large and unnecessary amount of money. Not to mention you will have terrible engine response. I assume you have a V8 if you're wanting to rear mount. It's not necesary, there are more creative ways to mount a turbo in the engine bay

3UZFTE

Ah... Just what I need... Jeff: I am building a LS400, single turbo low budget, low boost. My question is I have a buddy that is running a GT35R, T3 flange with no issues. I am looking at purchasing a Larger T3, such as a .82 hot side, but welding a T3 flange to 3" piping. I am choosing the T3 as it is easier to mold the a 3" pipe, where a T4 takes a little messaging. Now I am getting a fair amount of guff from a few of the existing turbocharged 1UZ guys as they say the smaller flange might restrict the flow too much during boost. Any thoughts...? Also, any idea besides eBay where to source a good used turbo to mock it up with?
Also, I am running a stock block, stock fuel, etc, and I don't want to blow anything, how do I find out the necessary waste gate size and spring to achieve this?
Last question for now, do you recommend sending the waste into exhaust or into the atmosphere?

Vadim540i

Is there any way to make free flow AND quiet exhaust? Turbo cars are quieter than NA anyway...

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the late response. I don't check in here too often. I would still recommend a T4 turbo. You can buy adapter flanges that mate a 3" pipe to a T4 flange. I use those all the time when fabricating semi-remote mount setups. Where the turbo isn't directly mounted on the manifold, but rather has a 3" diameter pipe leading it 6-12" in front of the manifold. Like what you V8 guys have to do to boost your motors. Something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T4-Di...Q5fAccessories

As for open dump or recirculated wastegate. The open dump will act as a semi cutout when it opens, thus reducing overall backpressure in the whole exhaust system. With a recirc, you're keeping the same level of backpressure in there. For a turbo application, you want the smallest amount of backpressure as possible. The obvious difference is that the dump wwill be loud as hell when it opens, while the recirc will have no difference in sound when open or closed. I'd say you might see a 5% increase in power output with the atmospheric dump.

Quite is a relative term. From the factory these cars have 2 resonators and 2 mufflers in addition to 3 cats. You're never going an aftermarket exhaust as quiet as stock. Toyota has spent countless hours specifically into making the engine nearly inaudible. You can get pretty darned close but you're never going to get it as quiet as stock. The cats and resonators reduce sound pretty significantly. Obviously if you upgrade the exhaust on a turbo car, most of the time you lose the cats, resonators, and are usually left with just the mufflers in the back. The turbo acts as a muffler in itself because the exhaust wheel breaks up the sound waves.

Let's just say that the turbo equals the 3 cats in terms of noise reduction potential. Now you still have to deal with the 2 missing resonators. Add a set of quiet resonators in and then find a quiet muffler. A straight through HKS Ti muffler is NOT going to be quiet no matter what you do. You will at least need a multi chambered exhaust to quiet things down. At the end of the day, you will have a much better flowing than exhaust than stock that is decently quiet. It won't be the best flowing, but it will be much better than stock. There is no way to make a straight through exhaust quiet, period.

Vadim540i

Alrite, thanks for the info Jeff

3UZFTE

Hey, better late then never. I really do appreciate the wisdom and the link. Thanks for clearing up the WG question. I have yet to come across that adapter. Unfortunately I bought a cheap T3, but I think if I can come across a T4 for cheap, that's great option. Thanks again, your wisdom and time is much appreciated.

TheRichInc

iTrader: (1)

Tried to PM you Jeff but your Box was full



Here is the PM Maybe some others have some input

Jeff,
I read a little bit of your write up and learned quite a lot actually. I was wondering what part of DFW you are in? Do you work for a Performance company? I am a relative noob to Lexus, and have a beginners knowledge of turbo systems. I would love to pick your brain sometime and get some ideas from you, and possibly if you know some places where I can source parts for a setup (that seems to be my biggest problem is finding parts for the 1st Gen GS's).

Basically I am wanting to do a Manual swap 5 or 6 speed havent really decided on which. I would like to be in the range of 450-550 HP. I basically need to know all the NEED to be replaced parts or upgraded parts and all the MIGHT should look into replacing...I am having a really hard time with the fuel system parts IE. do I need a Custom Fuel Rail or do they make injectors to fit my stock one? What size injectors? Fuel pump? Regulators? Also EMS which one is best and Want ALL of my gauges to work as factory. Should I replace pistons,Rods,Cams,valve springs, valves, retainers?

OR Should I just say to hell with the stock 2jz-ge and find a 2jz-Gte?

Thanks for any help man

Rich

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Nope I don't work for any company. I'm a self taught Lexus engineer/tech lol. You have a 1GS? If so, then just NA-T it and call it a day. The non-VVTi 2JZ-GE engine had rods and pistons very similar in strength to the GTE motors. I've seen people push 700hp+ out of the stock internals. 5 speed swap will be the most economical option, but power may be limited to around 500hp unless you get the transmission upgraded. The 6spd V160 out of the MKIV Supra is damn near indestructible but it will also cost you dearly. Expect to spend at the very minimum $7-8k to get a good V160 with good clutch into your car.

I would also go through and replace every seal(cam seals, front crank seal, rear crank seal, valve cover gaskets, etc) on the engine since they are probably pretty old. You will also need to upgrade to a thicker headgasket (2mm HG to lower compression) and ARP headstuds for additional clamping force. As for the fuel system, the GE has a top fee fuel rail stock and is perfectly adequate for 500rwhp. Just get a set injectors from RC engineering and you should just be able to drop them in with no issues. I would recommend you go with at least 750cc injectors so you have headroom for more power in the future if you desire. The fuel pump will also need to be upgraded to a single 255lph walbro pump. I recommend you also upgrade the factory fuel lines and put in an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, but this is not 100% necessary unless you want to go far past 500whp.

EMS, I would suggest you just get a plug n play AEM EMS. They make those for your car since it's a 1GS, they have a plug n play box. The gauges will still work with the EMS.

Swapping to a GTE is another option, but IMO not really necessary. You can make just as much power with a GE. The GTE just causes you to spend an additional $1500 right off the bat for the engine. Again, it's your choice

If you need help sourcing parts, just PM me or something(I cleared my inbox). I have some extra parts laying around in my garage that I need to get rid of as well.

TheRichInc

iTrader: (1)

Most Help I have gotten since I aquired my car....This dude should get member of the month or something..haha...Thanks a ton man I will PM you tomorrow I am interested to know what you have laying around that I might need. And I have a few other questions that you could probably help me with.

StarkoS14

just read through all this NA-T chat...

well, everything on my 2gs3 is going.. so the motor needs to go anyway. so im spending money on the 1g aristo clip, gte motor and auto trans(50k mile clip, personally looked at it and heard it fire on location). Im also OBDII, which my buddy wants to wire with the conversion. What surprises am i gonna run into with the swap? motor mounts are clearly the same, trans mounts the same? wiring? driveshaft? i visited your website and also searched for a gte swap writeup and found nothin useful. well i found your site very useful, just not what i was looking for exactly. other threads had a lot of "i think's"

seems like adding a walbro 255 would be a good idea with the swap. just trying to go into this swap without having to source more parts. I would like to have it done within a day or so and running solid.

japspec

iTrader: (4)

Its gonna take you more than a day.

StarkoS14

of course. im just sayin, people who are used to swaps can usually do it in a few days, not a week or more. ****, i can pull my sr and trans and have them apart in 2 hours on my 240. this is no 240, im just sayin i want it to be as cake as possible

japspec

iTrader: (4)

nice

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

I think the fastest I've ever pulled the engine out of my car was about 2 hours. There's quite a bit of hoses and connectors that have to be pulled. I also tear down the trans and rebuild it as well while I have the engine out.

Starko14, I would suggest you read up over on the My.IS forums as well in the 1st gen IS Go Faster section. Much more useful engine advice over there. Most of the guys there are gear-heads, most of the ones here are cosmetic-heads No offense to you guys that are purely into looks...heh.

A few things about the motor you got, make sure the mounting points are the same. I think Toyota changed the castings on the block very slightly between the years of around 1995-1996 or so. The newer blocks have the forward most hole on the block casted in, the older ones did not. If you happen to have one of the older blocks, you MIGHT have to make a custom engine mount bracket to fit the block. As for wiring, I would suggest you getting a 2JZ-GTE VVTi motor to simplify everything. True you can use the older ECU, but that would invovle some serious wiring harness modification and re-pinning. I've done it for someone before that insisted on doing it that way. I charged $1k to do the rewire and they could of just spent that extra rewiring money and bought a GTE VVTi motor which would of been nearly plug n play.

Anyways, I'd suggest you get a VVTi GTE motor because that's what came in these cars stock. It would be like trying to do a 350 swap into a C5 5.7L corvette. Sure it's doable, and they're both 350ci but you will go through hell to get everything on the car to work. Same thing as trying to put an older 2JZ into a 2GS and still have all the electronics work. FYI: you will lose cruise control, traction control, and possibly a few other things if you use the non-vvti motor.

StarkoS14

first off, thanks for the tips.. I couldn't agree more, I've noticed not so many gear heads vs cosmetic heads... no offense either. The clip im getting is a 95(72xxxKm).... the guy I get clips from only imports 1gs because he buys running cars that he personally drives before he cuts them up and ships them over. he wants to make sure they run perfect under load, brakes work... ect.. Its not worth the extra thousands on the car for a 2g, just for the vvti motor. Did any of the 1st gen aristos have vvti? as for losing traction control, well i want to disable that forever anyway. Cruise control would be nice tho and I will use the JDM ECU due to the fact I'm not looking to do a tune. Its def gonna be an interesting project swap that I want to do a writeup on. Good thing I'm trading my s14 coilovers to cover the swap labor, how about that deal?