Originally Posted by VIP161

Coincidentally, my check engine light turns on after taking a 50 mile road trip late last night. I thought I was going to be stranded. My light goes away today but I did have a friend run the code. P1349 is what I know I can just clean it, but I am going to order a new replacement from Lexus tomorrow. Great thread!

Originally Posted by sakataj

well the last few days have been a debacle and a PITA....i took both these out and cleaned them since i looked at alldata and i couldnt find out what the B on the end of the code meant (i thought it was signifying bank 2 but according to the alldata codes P1346 and P1349 WERE BANK ONE (so does anyone know what the B on the end signifies?)

anyways i took some pics while i did all this

it all started out with this





i then removed the drivers side one (bank one) for a cleaning, i now understand what OP was saying when he said this



yes the actual filter is encased inside the valve or as the dealer calls it the VALVE ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL. but this valve can still be cleaned, just not as functionally as the gs300's can be

BTW V-8 GUYS yes gs400 and gs430 use the same part #'s
part # for drivers side 153400F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
part # for passenger side 153300F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)


in this picture below i break it down just for you visual guys or DIY guys

remove the valve cover (2 10mm bolts)

DRIVERS SIDE






the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING THIS AS ITS ONLY 2 WIRES AND THEY CAN/WILL RIP LIKE THE GUY IN THE V8 VIDEO AND MYSELF'S DID)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way



this is the OEM drivers side OCV removed and physically it doesnt look bad, no sludging or anything on it. i run full synthetic oil and i change it every 8k, i also do oil analysis which all show it to be fine. regardless i cleaned them with some aerosol brake cleaner which still didnt get much off of them







now the passenger side i had some more issues with when i went to unplug it, the wires pulled out of it....i have a DIY on how to fix this correctly just a little l8r down.






the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (AGAIN BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING SO IT DOESNT RIP)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....again nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way







here is the passenger side removed with the new plug.i ripped the wires out when removing this plug and i had started to unpin the old one to new pin them back together when i realized in their junk room they had a few toyota harness on the wall so i clipped off a plug and ended up resoldering the wires back





i cleaned BOTH mine, repaired the ripped wire and reinstalled them, borrowed my mechanics SPX scanner i really like (they have several different ones but this is my fav to use)






and cleared the codes. started the car up, ran fine, no CEL, no vibration at low idle and no shuddering either. i reved it a handful of times, took it around the block and then brought it back and let it sit running for the next 10 mins or so while i cleaned up my mess.....drove the car into the bay and lifted it up to install my TRD lower brace. Got that installed, left the work and headed to my night job to pick up something which is about 10-15 miles away. So car has now been on for about 30 minutes and driven about 10-15 miles without any issues. right as im pulling into the parking lot of work i got not just a CEL but a flashing CEL (which means i have a severe misfire going on) i pulled into the parking lot and hooked the scanner back up (i borrowed it from him) all i got was this one lone code P1349B.i reset the code and when i started it back up it didnt blink just stayed solid





so cleaning DIDNT fix mine but i have some used ones from a GS400 coming in today and i will try and see if this fixes them., if not i will dive further into looking into this.......i did notice when the car has sat for awhile and is cold it has NO issues even with the CEL on but when it gets warmed up and has been driven for a minute thats when it will develop the low end ( at a stop light) shake if i come to a stop sign or a stop light and i put it in neutral it seems to behave better but i have really been nursing this car waiting on my parts

i will update when i get everything installed



see all i use is mobil one full synthetic and i been experimenting with these purolater oil filters for the last year or so BUT my oil analysis have been good so far so i dunno what caused this. i just changed oil about 800 miles ago and since i only send every other one of for analysis i didnt send this one which now i wish i had



yeah the alldata was referring to the VVTi sensor for removing the timing belt btw the V8's require removing ONLY the engine cover nothing else to access these





IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (V-8 GUYS) THIS INFO IS FOR YOU



THE ATTACHMENT BELOW THIS POST IS FOR THE VISUAL GS430 GUYS AND A WRITE UP IS ALSO BELOW FOR THE OTHER GUYS



there is a attachment on here which shows you the postive/negative side of the plug and the actual plug itself (2nd page of the attachment) but let me break it down even easier for those of you who need a little extra help

were gonna start with the drivers side plug which is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/YELLOW wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the GREEN/WHITE wire from the car

now the passenger side (the one i ripped) which is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/WHITE wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car


IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (GS400 GUYS) NO ATTACHMENT INCLUDED BUT HERE IS A SIMPLE WRITE UP BELOW OF HOW TO CORRECTLY WIRE IT BACK


the drivers side plug is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/GREEN wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the YELLOW/ORANGE (OR RED)wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED

the passenger side is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/RED (OR PINK) wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car




Drivers Side OCV Valve From A Gs400










Passenger Side OCV Valve From A Gs400











ONLY NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE IN THEM.OEM GS400 ON THE LEFT AND OEM GS430 ON THE RIGHT only real difference is the one on the left has a small C styled clip inside the tip and the one on the right is solid. i believe since they now use the same part # any new ones from a dealer will look like the one on the right







............

Originally Posted by Clifton

I have posted on the 1uz screens. I may have even posted up the factory manual pics, can't remember. They are under the front cam towers. It is a PITA if that is all you are doing. If you are close to changing the timing belt it will save some time. I cleaned mine and all was fine for about two years and now I will have to do it again as I am getting the codes again. Unfortunately I bought a car that someone did not do regular oil changes on. Running thinner oil, 5-30 will get you by for a little while.

Originally Posted by tuanb2013

My 2002 Lexus GS300 started to idle and die after engine warmed, not acceleration power. When the engine is cold it will not idle. The code I got was P 1346-VVT Sensor Circuit Range fault/ Performance Bank 1 & P 1349-VVT System Fault Bank 1, from Pep-Boys Auto. After reading some of the threads I went on Ebay and ordered the part,
TOYOTA AND LEXUS OEM FACTORY NEW CAM TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE & FILTER PART NUMBER: 15330-46011(OCV) &
PART NUMBER: 15678-48020(OCV Filter) for only $85.95. Don't buy it from Lexus Dealer, it'll cost you $190.00 from Lexus Dealer.

I replaced the parts, very easy fix, had a friend did the work for me. Took him only 10 mins. Now my car is running great, like new! VSC & VSC OFF Lights all went away. Thanks to all the ppl who posted on this Thread, it helped me a great deal & saved me a lot of time and money.
HERE IS THE EBAY SITE WHERE I OREDED THE PARTS: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231144032310

Hope this will help some of you....Thanks again everyone!

Tuanb2013

Originally Posted by jlexgs300

My gs is showing p1349 code and my mechanic is tryng to charge me $500 , I feel played . I'm going to start with my OCV and clean it , check my timing belt and seals , water pump and anything associated . I have changed my o2 oxygen sensor and I use synthetic mobile one oil for performance but my ride feels sluggish , I need some feedback please ...... Help ... Also what website sells OCV I want to buy a new one anyway