P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1b) blocked oil control valve filter
#256
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I read post 67, and I have to say... maybe it's vehicle-specific, maybe it's my concern with breaking something, yet I could see no way of getting the OCVs out, without loosening the TB. If anything, the right OCV even had to have the loom over it loosened, by removing the two retaining bolts (it's the loom that runs under your red/blue line, on the right OCV), so the loom would come up some. Maybe there is a way to get the OCVs out without loosening the TB, yet I just couldn't figure out how to do it. Yet since loosening the TB only requires removing the two top nuts and two bottom bolts, it only adds 5-10min to the job.
Good news is, 12 codes went away, so the check-engine light went out. Bad news is, 2 codes came back, and it's now stumbling (didn't with the OCVs unplugged). After the car heats up to operating temp, idle will drop to 800rpm, yet every few seconds, it'll dip to 400-500rpm for a cylinder, then jump back up to 800rpm. In the absence of reading the entire thread... what's the next idea, after the OCVs have been replaced, and the ODB-II codes say VVT-i? Acceleration and driving off idle is night-and-day from before, yet would be nice to get rid of this next challenge.
Good news is, 12 codes went away, so the check-engine light went out. Bad news is, 2 codes came back, and it's now stumbling (didn't with the OCVs unplugged). After the car heats up to operating temp, idle will drop to 800rpm, yet every few seconds, it'll dip to 400-500rpm for a cylinder, then jump back up to 800rpm. In the absence of reading the entire thread... what's the next idea, after the OCVs have been replaced, and the ODB-II codes say VVT-i? Acceleration and driving off idle is night-and-day from before, yet would be nice to get rid of this next challenge.
depends ....whats the codes
#257
Y'know, as I was typing that, I knew that would come up. iPhone ODB-II reader app says Current is P1346 and P1351, and Pending is P1346 and P1351. So I presume it's recurring.
#258
The pax-side OCV connector was broken by the PO, had zip-tied it after the repair. This morning, had the chance to replace the OCV plug (now "clicks" on), and installed a vacuum cap for the MAF-side port on top of the TB. Cleared the codes, will see what comes up next.
#259
in my experience, this code is not the OCV filter, but rather the OCV itself
#260
Replaced both, with new-in-box Lexus units. Codes came back during lunch drive. Light stumbling at throttle, and noticing light hesitation when cruising at highway speeds. PO had the starter replaced before selling... wonder if that is contributing to this mess. Aside from the code, it's not bad... just irritating as heck.
#261
Codes remaining are P1346 (sensor problem bank 1), P1351 (sensor problem bank 2) and P0420 (issues with cat 1?). So looks like fixing P1349 fixed the system enough to lead to the next issue. Heading over to that thread.
#262
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OCV filter was only issue
I had terrible shuddering idle problem after the engine warmed up in my '99 GS300 (235,000 miles). The VSC and VSC OFF lights lit up on the dash. The codes I read were P1346, P1349, and P300-P306. The P300 misfire series is obviously the result of the idle problem. After researching the P1346 & P1349 codes here at Club Lexus I decided to check the OCV filter since it was the easiest point to start with.
Using the drawing on the original post as a reference, I removed the 20mm Union Bolt. A small amount of oil dripped out after the bolt was loosened but not much. I carefully unscrewed the Union Bolt and removed it from the engine. The filter is only attached to the Union Bolt through friction. It just pulled right off. The screen was not nearly as dirty as the photo from the OP, but it was at least 50% clogged. I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage since I bought the car 2 years ago, but this could easily be the first time the filter was inspected since new. I carefully brushed the mesh and blasted it liberally with brake cleaner. I repeated the process until I could easily see through the screen. I also cleaned out any gunk in the Union Bolt before I reattached the filter to the Union Bolt. I inserted the bolt/filter assembly back into the engine block. I erased the codes before test driving.
I'm happy to say that the shuddering idle has not returned after the engine has warmed up and I put about 20 miles on the odometer. I rechecked the codes and have no codes or pending codes. The only I/M that hasn't reset is the CAT monitor.
I'll update my experience after putting some more miles on it.
Using the drawing on the original post as a reference, I removed the 20mm Union Bolt. A small amount of oil dripped out after the bolt was loosened but not much. I carefully unscrewed the Union Bolt and removed it from the engine. The filter is only attached to the Union Bolt through friction. It just pulled right off. The screen was not nearly as dirty as the photo from the OP, but it was at least 50% clogged. I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage since I bought the car 2 years ago, but this could easily be the first time the filter was inspected since new. I carefully brushed the mesh and blasted it liberally with brake cleaner. I repeated the process until I could easily see through the screen. I also cleaned out any gunk in the Union Bolt before I reattached the filter to the Union Bolt. I inserted the bolt/filter assembly back into the engine block. I erased the codes before test driving.
I'm happy to say that the shuddering idle has not returned after the engine has warmed up and I put about 20 miles on the odometer. I rechecked the codes and have no codes or pending codes. The only I/M that hasn't reset is the CAT monitor.
I'll update my experience after putting some more miles on it.
#263
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
I had terrible shuddering idle problem after the engine warmed up in my '99 GS300 (235,000 miles). The VSC and VSC OFF lights lit up on the dash. The codes I read were P1346, P1349, and P300-P306. The P300 misfire series is obviously the result of the idle problem. After researching the P1346 & P1349 codes here at Club Lexus I decided to check the OCV filter since it was the easiest point to start with.
Using the drawing on the original post as a reference, I removed the 20mm Union Bolt. A small amount of oil dripped out after the bolt was loosened but not much. I carefully unscrewed the Union Bolt and removed it from the engine. The filter is only attached to the Union Bolt through friction. It just pulled right off. The screen was not nearly as dirty as the photo from the OP, but it was at least 50% clogged. I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage since I bought the car 2 years ago, but this could easily be the first time the filter was inspected since new. I carefully brushed the mesh and blasted it liberally with brake cleaner. I repeated the process until I could easily see through the screen. I also cleaned out any gunk in the Union Bolt before I reattached the filter to the Union Bolt. I inserted the bolt/filter assembly back into the engine block. I erased the codes before test driving.
I'm happy to say that the shuddering idle has not returned after the engine has warmed up and I put about 20 miles on the odometer. I rechecked the codes and have no codes or pending codes. The only I/M that hasn't reset is the CAT monitor.
I'll update my experience after putting some more miles on it.
Using the drawing on the original post as a reference, I removed the 20mm Union Bolt. A small amount of oil dripped out after the bolt was loosened but not much. I carefully unscrewed the Union Bolt and removed it from the engine. The filter is only attached to the Union Bolt through friction. It just pulled right off. The screen was not nearly as dirty as the photo from the OP, but it was at least 50% clogged. I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage since I bought the car 2 years ago, but this could easily be the first time the filter was inspected since new. I carefully brushed the mesh and blasted it liberally with brake cleaner. I repeated the process until I could easily see through the screen. I also cleaned out any gunk in the Union Bolt before I reattached the filter to the Union Bolt. I inserted the bolt/filter assembly back into the engine block. I erased the codes before test driving.
I'm happy to say that the shuddering idle has not returned after the engine has warmed up and I put about 20 miles on the odometer. I rechecked the codes and have no codes or pending codes. The only I/M that hasn't reset is the CAT monitor.
I'll update my experience after putting some more miles on it.
#264
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This time for sure
My excitement was shortlived. The shudder came back after about 30 miles of driving.
Step 2 was the next easiest thing to do. I removed the OCV itself. I did the 12V test and noticed that the plunger did move, but not very much. Thinking that I was going to replace it anyway, I took it apart. I removed the c-clip, the spring retaining cup, the spring, and the plunger. I cleaned the entire part with brake cleaner. I noticed there were some small bits stuck to the inside of the cylinder that looked like black grains of sand, which did not come off with the brake cleaner. I carefully used an exacto knife to scrape off the grains and sprayed it again with brake cleaner. I reassembled the OCV and did another 12V test. The plunger's travel distance was definitely longer. I reinstalled the OCV and I'm happy to say that I'm over 200 miles with no repeat of the shuddering idle problem. No codes or warning lights.
In reviewing what I found on this site and youtube, it seems to me that since the plunger is only moved by magnetic force, it may not take too much interference (black grains of sand) to stop it from moving the way it needs to.
Step 2 was the next easiest thing to do. I removed the OCV itself. I did the 12V test and noticed that the plunger did move, but not very much. Thinking that I was going to replace it anyway, I took it apart. I removed the c-clip, the spring retaining cup, the spring, and the plunger. I cleaned the entire part with brake cleaner. I noticed there were some small bits stuck to the inside of the cylinder that looked like black grains of sand, which did not come off with the brake cleaner. I carefully used an exacto knife to scrape off the grains and sprayed it again with brake cleaner. I reassembled the OCV and did another 12V test. The plunger's travel distance was definitely longer. I reinstalled the OCV and I'm happy to say that I'm over 200 miles with no repeat of the shuddering idle problem. No codes or warning lights.
In reviewing what I found on this site and youtube, it seems to me that since the plunger is only moved by magnetic force, it may not take too much interference (black grains of sand) to stop it from moving the way it needs to.
#265
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So I just stumbled upon this thread after running out of ideas and my friend told me to try the vvt-i system. My car (02 GS430) exhibits the symptoms (after 20-30 minutes of driving it's gut slow below 3k, and still pretty slow after that) but the idle doesn't die down like other people seemed to report. Also, the car throws codes 325 and 330, both knock sensors, not the vvt-i system. About 5 months ago it was throwing 325 and I replaced both knock sensors though. It also throws some random BS emissions codes (440 and 446) that I don't think affect anything. Has anyone thrown codes other than for the vvt-i system, replaced the OCVs and fixed their problem? Like I said the car exhibits the symptoms, I'm just wary of dropping $250 on something that the ECU isn't pointing me towards..
#266
Does anyone know if the '98 SC400 uses filters inline with the VVT control valves? I haven't found any but I'm getting P1349 and while I'm cleaning the valve, I'd like to replace the filters if there are any.
'98 SC400, '92 300ZXTT, '73 SD455
'98 SC400, '92 300ZXTT, '73 SD455
#270
Driver School Candidate
Replaced both, with new-in-box Lexus units. Codes came back during lunch drive. Light stumbling at throttle, and noticing light hesitation when cruising at highway speeds. PO had the starter replaced before selling... wonder if that is contributing to this mess. Aside from the code, it's not bad... just irritating as heck.
How many OCVs are in 2000 Lexus GS300 engine (2JZ-GE)? I have been able to figure out one so far based on youtube videos and other material i have seen on net so far. If there is another second one too then can someone provide a video or extact location details of the second OCV?