Mtparker18's turbo build thread
#16
#17
Also. Lets say I just buy marks kit, and the piping. Can I just bolt it up now and add everything later (hg, fuel, etc.)?
What kind of gain would I get with like 6 psi?
EDIT: Also, I talked to Mark and he told me all I need to get to 400 is his kit, FMIC piping kit, NA-T Gasket set, Injectors (7mGTE $40 used) (resistor pack = $100) and MAPECU 1 or 2.
Would this really get me to 400?
What kind of gain would I get with like 6 psi?
EDIT: Also, I talked to Mark and he told me all I need to get to 400 is his kit, FMIC piping kit, NA-T Gasket set, Injectors (7mGTE $40 used) (resistor pack = $100) and MAPECU 1 or 2.
Would this really get me to 400?
Last edited by mtparker18; 02-26-09 at 07:41 PM.
#19
MT, as far as other stuff you'll need, you can get almost all of it from mark:
oil line kit (-4an feed and -10an return)
function7 oil fittings (total of about 30 bucks on ebay for both)
Get mark's electronic boost controller/gauge turbo timer combo (200 bucks)
get mark's SS valve body rods (75 bucks)
get mark's full gasket/seal kit (248 shipped for EVERY gasket/seal)
get a B&M trans cooler (shame you missed mine, but you can get them for around 75 online)
fuel pressure regulator (aeromotive is 130 or so)
Wideband (exitspeed on na-t is selling one for 200 bucks right now brand new)
I was going to run a boost, trans temp, and the wideband gauge. That's a pretty good setup.
that's everything i can think of off the top of my head that i was still needing to buy.
oil line kit (-4an feed and -10an return)
function7 oil fittings (total of about 30 bucks on ebay for both)
Get mark's electronic boost controller/gauge turbo timer combo (200 bucks)
get mark's SS valve body rods (75 bucks)
get mark's full gasket/seal kit (248 shipped for EVERY gasket/seal)
get a B&M trans cooler (shame you missed mine, but you can get them for around 75 online)
fuel pressure regulator (aeromotive is 130 or so)
Wideband (exitspeed on na-t is selling one for 200 bucks right now brand new)
I was going to run a boost, trans temp, and the wideband gauge. That's a pretty good setup.
that's everything i can think of off the top of my head that i was still needing to buy.
#20
MT, as far as other stuff you'll need, you can get almost all of it from mark:
oil line kit (-4an feed and -10an return)
function7 oil fittings (total of about 30 bucks on ebay for both)
Get mark's electronic boost controller/gauge turbo timer combo (200 bucks)
get mark's SS valve body rods (75 bucks)
get mark's full gasket/seal kit (248 shipped for EVERY gasket/seal)
get a B&M trans cooler (shame you missed mine, but you can get them for around 75 online)
fuel pressure regulator (aeromotive is 130 or so)
Wideband (exitspeed on na-t is selling one for 200 bucks right now brand new)
I was going to run a boost, trans temp, and the wideband gauge. That's a pretty good setup.
that's everything i can think of off the top of my head that i was still needing to buy.
oil line kit (-4an feed and -10an return)
function7 oil fittings (total of about 30 bucks on ebay for both)
Get mark's electronic boost controller/gauge turbo timer combo (200 bucks)
get mark's SS valve body rods (75 bucks)
get mark's full gasket/seal kit (248 shipped for EVERY gasket/seal)
get a B&M trans cooler (shame you missed mine, but you can get them for around 75 online)
fuel pressure regulator (aeromotive is 130 or so)
Wideband (exitspeed on na-t is selling one for 200 bucks right now brand new)
I was going to run a boost, trans temp, and the wideband gauge. That's a pretty good setup.
that's everything i can think of off the top of my head that i was still needing to buy.
Thanks man.
Heres another question. as far as boost controller and gauges, will the controller fit in the ashtray and could i put the gauges in the glovebox where the channger was?
#21
i would think the controller would fit, but itd be a PITA to wire/plumb in there with your boost line. The gauges would definitely fit where the changer was if you made up a little piece of plywood with the holes cutout and carpeted it or other similar mounting piece.
#22
Thanks. I was just wondering because I didn't want to have to take apart more than what I needed to
#23
What i did with my gauges was tore out the ash tray (except for the trim around the unit itself) and put a universal dual gauge pod from glowshift...looks pretty good IMO, ill post up pics sometime if your interested. i also have both driver and passenger 3 gauge pillar pods...lol so yea i have 8 gauges...looks cool at night any more and you think i'd be driving a civic! lol
#24
What i did with my gauges was tore out the ash tray (except for the trim around the unit itself) and put a universal dual gauge pod from glowshift...looks pretty good IMO, ill post up pics sometime if your interested. i also have both driver and passenger 3 gauge pillar pods...lol so yea i have 8 gauges...looks cool at night any more and you think i'd be driving a civic! lol
#25
Electronic controller: Some fool tries to "race" you. You look over and smirk. Change the boost from 6 psi to 18 psi. Say, "latuh, sucka!"
I'm not promoting any kind of street racing
2.) You will definitely need a boost gauge to make sure you aren't overboosting and pinging your engine like crazy. It's also fun watching the gauge go up and down between shifts.
I highly recommend a wideband a/f to properly monitor the a/f ratio.
Also, not highly necessary but it's useful to get oil temp and possibly exhaust gas temp (EGT).
#26
1.) Cons for a manual boost controller: Some fool tries to "race" you. You yell, "hold on, I gotta up the boost." You pop the hood, get outta your car and adjust the controller...
Electronic controller: Some fool tries to "race" you. You look over and smirk. Change the boost from 6 psi to 18 psi. Say, "latuh, sucka!"
I'm not promoting any kind of street racing
2.) You will definitely need a boost gauge to make sure you aren't overboosting and pinging your engine like crazy. It's also fun watching the gauge go up and down between shifts.
I highly recommend a wideband a/f to properly monitor the a/f ratio.
Also, not highly necessary but it's useful to get oil temp and possibly exhaust gas temp (EGT).
Electronic controller: Some fool tries to "race" you. You look over and smirk. Change the boost from 6 psi to 18 psi. Say, "latuh, sucka!"
I'm not promoting any kind of street racing
2.) You will definitely need a boost gauge to make sure you aren't overboosting and pinging your engine like crazy. It's also fun watching the gauge go up and down between shifts.
I highly recommend a wideband a/f to properly monitor the a/f ratio.
Also, not highly necessary but it's useful to get oil temp and possibly exhaust gas temp (EGT).
I'm getting a wideband, thanks
#28
#29
keep up the good work....your a motivation to the younger crowd build a nice gs so young and a motivation to the older crowd as we cant let a 17 (u r 17 arent u) year old show us up... hehe
#30
for 400rwhp i'd say lose the fic and just get a haltech e6x or aem ems...it just your have better street manners if you understand what i'm saying....and you be able to manage when u decide to upgrade and make more boost...the only problem with marks boost controller is that it only allows u to double the wastegate spring in boost>>>so say you have a 7psi spring in your wastegate then you'll only be able to make 14psi boost max...so your high and low will suck kind of...but that controller has a boost gauge and timer built in one but its not like you'll need the timer if your using full synthetic oil anways...lol i'd also invest 80 bucks and get a oil catch can just incase! 80 bucks now might save you hundreds down the road...good luck with you fi project