Whoa, where to start:

1). At 400hp the Aem and Haltech E6 are both WAY overkill. Either of them will be $2000 or more installed and properly tuned. You can make 400hp on a Haltech F10x for half the price.

2). I haven't used Marks boost controller so I can't comment on it. What I can say is your "top" and "low" end will be perfectly fine. Simply size the spring to your setup like everyone else does. In your case a range of 7-14lbs will be just fine.

Edit: I just read the specs on the boost controller and didn't see anywhere that said it could only double the spring pressure.

3) Just because you use synthetic oil doesn't mean you don't need a turbo timer. The point of a turbo timer is to cool the bearings of the turbo, wether you are using conventional or synthetic oil doesn't change the need for your bearings to be cooled.

4). You don't need a catch can. If you get to the point where you NEED a catch can then you have pressure under your valve cover and you have bigger things to worry about like why your piston rings are allowing massive blow-by.

 

ahah, yep. turned 17 on the 19th of feb. I always like making the older guys go "s#!t, that 17 year olds car is better that mine!" it's nice because you get some competition lol

 

Alright everyone. Upon talking to people on my.is, they said that turbo is only good for highway and I will get major lag. How true is this? And someone said "I wouldnt even touch XS power turbos, read to many blown turbos and engines from those weak things." true or now?

 

the FIC if installed and tuned PROPERLY, can very well work for 400hp.

i would also recommend a haltech though. Just easier.

Absolute lie about the timer. Even with synthetic oil you need to use a timer or let your car cool a bit before you shut it down.

I would also recommend a catch can since we have a blow by engine, to save the maf and a bunch of headaches down the road.

 

being a relatively small 57 trim with a big hotside, you shouldn't see too much lag. Any turbo will lag, but the t57 won't be bad.


If XSpower turbos are so bad (and believe me by no means am i saying they're super great turbos) then why are so many people running marks kits without any problems at all? It comes down to maintenance and whether you beat on the car all the time like an idiot, shut it right off after a spirited run, etc.

A turbo being only good for highway is probably the DUMBEST comment i've heard in a while. It spools based on RPM, not speed, so what difference does it make whether it's highway or surface streets? If you get to the spooling rpm (i think the 57 is about 3k or so like any other) you hit boost, simple as that.

 

Yeah. some of what they were saying, didn't make sence.

 

I had one of marks turbos for two years, daily driven. Never had an issue with it and when I sold it there was almost no shaft play and I don't see why it wouldn't last another two years.

Also, as far as swapped 2Gs's I don't think anyone has beaten my dyno numbers (with proof) which I was able to duplicate over a year apart from each other on different dyno's. Basically what I'm getting at is that the power is there and I personally had no issues. The wheel design on the turbo is an older design and doesn't spool quite as fast as say a "gt" series turbo but it's not horrible and it works just fine for street use.

 

Thanks for the input. I know a lot of people have no issues, and the few that did mark took care of.

 

okay well i guess nobody saw my comment about better street manners with an aem ems or haltech e6x....the f10 only controls fuel...about the controller...i had it on my car and it only doubles...as for the oil why would you need the turbo to cool if the oil will not burn and clog?

 

I saw the comment but the aem/e6 are far from being just a simple install and tune when you want the car to drive like stock. I'm fully aware that the F10x is only a fuel controller, that's why it is a good choice for the OP's application.

That's odd the boost controller would act that way, on Marks site it mentions it's on it's fourth revision, I guess the OP would have to check with Mark as to the issue being resolved. Nevertheless, 15psi on a stock internal setup is about maxed out for a reliable setup.

So what happens when the synthetic oil is contaminated after 500miles? Where do the contaminates go when they are sitting stagnant on a burning hot turbo bearing? The point of keeping the oil flowing is to draw enough heat off the bearings so that the oil doesn't deposit all the junk it carries onto the bearings.

 

change the oil every 500 miles duh!! lol

 

i have a couple of questions...
1. does anyone run royal purple in their cars? whats your opinion on it?
2. are the stock 2jzge injectors low or high impedance?
Thanks

 

1. I use Mobil1 or Amsoil. I haven't used RP in my car before so I can't comment on it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work well. It is a high grade synthetic oil after all.
2. High Impedance 280cc.

 

thanks 4 the info Jeff. ok so idk how i missed that the 2jz had a iron block...is that common knowledge?

 

well sort of common...every spec sheet you look at on the 2jz shows cast-iron block haha. Royal purple has worked well in many high performance cars. They claim a 3-5hp increase by using it, but i'm definitely not believing that. I'd rather use Mobil 1 or Amsoil like jeff said. But, since i'm no longer boosting, it's nice cheapy Napa oil changed every 2500 for this guy