DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

I just wanted to share this with you guys who are seeking extra horsepower to the wheels without breaking the bank. Amazing dyno numbers.. Hell I am going to give this a try next oil change for the GS of course

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3p-WXDTwyo


Any thoughts on this oil?

evil00017

He lost trq on both those runs but gained hp. I think its worth a try though I just changed my oil but keep us up to date if the butt dyno tells you any different. You should be able to feel 8wheel

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

of course u regain hp after oil change... youll just lose it again after 1000 miles =p

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

0w is a very thin oil. I can assure you that you will have some oil consumption. I think that type of oil is only compatible with brand new cars since their pistons are still tight. To me, that oil is pretty hype and full of gimmicks.

MDSC

iTrader: (3)

its retarded to run it on a near stock car, 8rwhp is unoticeble on a car that weights anymore then 2500 lbs and makes more then 250hp. Now on teh bike is different story, they make race oil <0 weight, it frees up some HP but its for race aplications only, and if you gain 8rwhp on the bike its def a difference. I usually run Royal Purple in my camaro 20w50 it robs HP but for high HP applications and when oil gets extremly hot(it gets thin) you want to run thicker oil. On a regular bolt on car it really dosent matter, just run recomended weight and you'll be fine.

evil00017

a car with nitrous would it be a good idea to run a thicker oil or will it not make that much of a difference?

MDSC

iTrader: (3)

i would run a colder plug, and synthetic regular

3UZFTE

0w is the weight when it's below 40 degrees. Above that, it is 50 weight... Which is some super thick stuff... I'm pretty sure that if you choose to run this oil, you will not be able to run 5w-30 any longer due to the clearance that 50 weight will need.... Not saying you can run 0w-50, but if you make the switch it's best to keep using it as the clearance will become larger to move the thicker oil.

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

torque numbers are all over the place... it appears that they do not have smoothing turned on for the dyno graph.. who knows what the correction factors are set to.. ambient temp.. etc.. Its an unrealistic and unreliable test without all of the factors.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

i was just thinking the same thing after watching that

Lexmex

I happily agree.

I remember in Mexico we had a debate on Japanese car forum about Royal Purple. A very good oil in its own right, but one of the local distributors felt strongly enough to try doing a dyno before and after with several cars and claimed to get 4 extra hp. I told people I didn't think that was much of something to write home about and offered to take my cousin's Golf (since it wasn't a AWD dyno for say my RX300) and run the same test with something like Castrol 0W30 (a.k.a. The German Castrol), which is what I currently run in my Rx300.

Still, we didn't have too much of a selection of good synthetics down there, and Royal Purple attracted a decent crowd. In fact, I let him set up a stand at my 1/4 mile track and he got a few takers in the last few months before I left.

I don't doubt Eneos is a good oil either, I may give it a shot the next time I need to change oil in my RX300 (that or Amsoil 0W30).

I think a better view of an oil is a used oil analysis test.

TeeLex

iTrader: (24)

I've been using Amsoil 0-30W for about 2 years and my GS430 uses no measurable oil w/the Amsoil. I also live in South Florida, my GS has 103,XXX miles on it, and run about 8000 miles between oil changes.

3UZFTE

What kinda of filter are you using? Is rated for the longevity of the synthetics?

Side note, doesn't oil remove dirt and debris from the engine? Wouldn't it be beneficial no matter how long your oil can last to change it due to contaminants? I am aware synthetics are supposed to reduce dirt, but carbon build up and debris is a byproduct of combustion and can't really be avoided. I'm not saying the oil isn't protecting the metal surfaces, but wouldn't it be better to just change it more often regardless of what oil is used? I am not being harsh with anyone, I am just posing my theory for someone else to tell me theirs. I have a GS430 w/ 134k, I've used conventional 5w-30, and change it every 2500 to 3000 miles, will go over, not a big deal, but I don't like to. I used shell/rotella, with oem filters.