Idle WAY too high...help!
#16
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You've got that right. Went out there a little while ago and fired it up and let it get to oper. temp. so I could adjust the tps and I thought, hmmm, doesn't sound high so when I looked in to confirm that it was up to water temp I looked at the tach and its right within spec 700-750 in P. Got in it, put it in D and it fell to about 500 rpm. Perfect, right within spec again. Shut it off and cranked it again and perfect again. So it fixed itself...again. So except for it being entirely cable operated, it has no warning lights, perfect idle, and perfect drivability. BUT, its still cable driven.
I'm thinking that I'll probably be looking at a new APPS and TPS here before too long.
I'm thinking that I'll probably be looking at a new APPS and TPS here before too long.
#17
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I'll try that now and report the difference.
Anyone had a APP sensor go out and noticed that the car turned cable only and the CEL.VSC/VSC OFF lights go back out on their own even though its not operating as fly by wire anymore? I'm wondering if this is somewhat common and it goes unnoticed b/c drivabilty doesn't suffer.
Anyone had a APP sensor go out and noticed that the car turned cable only and the CEL.VSC/VSC OFF lights go back out on their own even though its not operating as fly by wire anymore? I'm wondering if this is somewhat common and it goes unnoticed b/c drivabilty doesn't suffer.
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#21
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Did you make sure to place the butterfly switch back to regular position where the Throttle body is placed?
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/gabebauman/Car%20Parts%20For%20Sale/LS_throttle_body02.jpg)
It's the big Circle in the middle. Jeff, if you're reading, please fill in at what degree it should be open/closed at.
EDIT:
Did you also change your gasket for the MAF sensor and the Throttle body? If not, you probably should since you have that many miles.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/gabebauman/Car%20Parts%20For%20Sale/LS_throttle_body02.jpg)
It's the big Circle in the middle. Jeff, if you're reading, please fill in at what degree it should be open/closed at.
EDIT:
Did you also change your gasket for the MAF sensor and the Throttle body? If not, you probably should since you have that many miles.
Last edited by UncleRay; 01-14-10 at 12:13 PM.
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If anyone cares, my update is this.
I bought a new apps and tps from Lexus and set out to install them this afternoon. I started with the apps. I r&r'd it, cranked the car and it revved and idled at about 2k rpm and was still cable only activated so I checked accel voltage at .54 (within range) and went back under the hood to see what was up. I didn't see anything that stood out so I disconnected the battery and grabbed the old one again and reinstalled it so I would know if maybe I just didn't clock the new one correctly, well, I re-installed it just like I did the new one and the old one showed .58, again perfectly within range, and when I cranked the car it ran just like it did prior to the service, iow, not perfect, but close to it. I started to do the tps and then said the heck with it and got a beer instead.
The only way someone would know something isn't quite right is that when it starts up cold it flares to 2k rpm then falls to about 1500 gradually settling into a 750-1k rpm idle and then about 400-500 rpm in gear...and cable operated. Still no warning lights.
Does this sound familiar to anyone?
I bought a new apps and tps from Lexus and set out to install them this afternoon. I started with the apps. I r&r'd it, cranked the car and it revved and idled at about 2k rpm and was still cable only activated so I checked accel voltage at .54 (within range) and went back under the hood to see what was up. I didn't see anything that stood out so I disconnected the battery and grabbed the old one again and reinstalled it so I would know if maybe I just didn't clock the new one correctly, well, I re-installed it just like I did the new one and the old one showed .58, again perfectly within range, and when I cranked the car it ran just like it did prior to the service, iow, not perfect, but close to it. I started to do the tps and then said the heck with it and got a beer instead.
The only way someone would know something isn't quite right is that when it starts up cold it flares to 2k rpm then falls to about 1500 gradually settling into a 750-1k rpm idle and then about 400-500 rpm in gear...and cable operated. Still no warning lights.
Does this sound familiar to anyone?
#23
Lead Lap
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Sounds farmiliar to me. With the new TPS, you have to set it at a certain voltage which requires a specific machine to do so. The machine is read from the OBDII reader, which marks what the voltage is reading. I believe the voltage was 11v for the engine off, and 14v when the car starts. It also has to be in at a certain angle as well. If you set it one degree higher than it should be, you'll get very bad cranking, and very bad revving.
I learned the hard way
I learned the hard way
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