Nitrous power? How much is to much?
12-11-09, 09:35 AM
#19
Well, lets say if I wanted to do a HEALTHY sprucing up of my almost 10 YEAR OLD engine and I was willing to spend $4K...what can I get done that will ensure the longevity, retrieve some lost power and perhaps add some additional power. I would DEFINITELY do this over my next mod for sure.
Please anyone...let me know what could be done to accomplish the above - even if it is a little more than the above amount. Thanks!
Please anyone...let me know what could be done to accomplish the above - even if it is a little more than the above amount. Thanks!
12-11-09, 09:37 AM
#20
Lexus Champion
For people wanting to substantially increase their power... yes, starting in 1995 Lexus/Toyota installed "weak" rods. The pre-95 rods support 600hp in a properly tuned engine.
The design goal of engineers is a part that is strong enough for the application without undue weight so with this criteria the Toyota engineers did very well. A lighter rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) makes for a more efficient quicker reving engine. If the goal is stronger just look to the 2jzgte which supports over 600rwhp (some have done much more) on 6 stock rods.
The design goal of engineers is a part that is strong enough for the application without undue weight so with this criteria the Toyota engineers did very well. A lighter rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) makes for a more efficient quicker reving engine. If the goal is stronger just look to the 2jzgte which supports over 600rwhp (some have done much more) on 6 stock rods.
12-11-09, 11:23 AM
#22
LOL...my point in posting was not to argue with you. I don't see how posting "there are off the shelf sc kits for gs400" is going to help the original poster when they aren't available...when was the last time one went up for sale?? How is your post helping the OP besides a +1 post? can you answer that? The Nitrous kits are way cheaper HP to go by far for our cars. He can get a nitrous kit for around $500-600, when you post about the sc kit which would be minimum $4500 (which is rare to find in the first place) plus what most people don't realize is that to have it reliable can cost up to $10k or more.
i have seen SEVERAL for sale in the last year actually.
post helped OP little as he has a gs300, it was in rebuttal to MDSC's comment AND I QUOTE
"i dont know why more people dont do this but its def a good alternative especially for GS400 owners where theres absolutly nothing forced induction out there."
by letting him know there are kits built specifically for the gs400. THAT was the point of it, was just a rebutal.
regardless of what u and fonzi think i dont post to build my post count at all...
be honestly great if u would get off my back bout my post count increasing, every where i post lately i feel u or fonzi just rebutalling me with "theres another +1 post". i work at a job im on my comp ALL day so im ALMOST ALWAYS ON here so yeah my post count will be higher than others....but my posts aren't crap like
good job....
cool........
looks awesome
95% of my posts are information to help people....
Ok OP sorry for rambling lets get back on topic,so speed we can take this to PM's if u would like to discuss or respond so we dont waste this topic
Last edited by sakataj; 12-11-09 at 11:39 AM.
12-11-09, 12:15 PM
#23
For people wanting to substantially increase their power... yes, starting in 1995 Lexus/Toyota installed "weak" rods. The pre-95 rods support 600hp in a properly tuned engine.
The design goal of engineers is a part that is strong enough for the application without undue weight so with this criteria the Toyota engineers did very well. A lighter rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) makes for a more efficient quicker reving engine. If the goal is stronger just look to the 2jzgte which supports over 600rwhp (some have done much more) on 6 stock rods.
The design goal of engineers is a part that is strong enough for the application without undue weight so with this criteria the Toyota engineers did very well. A lighter rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) makes for a more efficient quicker reving engine. If the goal is stronger just look to the 2jzgte which supports over 600rwhp (some have done much more) on 6 stock rods.
.
12-11-09, 05:21 PM
#24
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You're welcome.
The converter will make the car launch much harder and shift quicker as well as wind out a touch faster at high RPM due to its slightly smaller and lighter design.
For nitrous you definitely will want to get the exhaust out better and headers are a big plus there. Actually, I would not consider adding power to a GS4xx without improving the exhaust manifolds - which of course are a power adder in themselves. As with nitrous you will not be aware of the cylinders that are struggling due to the undesireable conditions. Several of the stock exhaust manifold ports are definitely compromised by the stock parts. The headers relieve this making the engine happier and stronger. Get the headers and each cylinder is closer balanced just like a port nitrous gives each cylinder the same dose of power.
In order of improvement: converter, headers (with stock cats and existing exhaust) cold air intake (my preference is the K&N at this point) and A/F ratio tuning. With the converter you may want to get a limited slip differential which includes the Supra Turbo part or adding an LSD carrier to the stock housing and gearing. Just the converter and headers will REALLY wake up the car.
The converter will make the car launch much harder and shift quicker as well as wind out a touch faster at high RPM due to its slightly smaller and lighter design.
For nitrous you definitely will want to get the exhaust out better and headers are a big plus there. Actually, I would not consider adding power to a GS4xx without improving the exhaust manifolds - which of course are a power adder in themselves. As with nitrous you will not be aware of the cylinders that are struggling due to the undesireable conditions. Several of the stock exhaust manifold ports are definitely compromised by the stock parts. The headers relieve this making the engine happier and stronger. Get the headers and each cylinder is closer balanced just like a port nitrous gives each cylinder the same dose of power.
In order of improvement: converter, headers (with stock cats and existing exhaust) cold air intake (my preference is the K&N at this point) and A/F ratio tuning. With the converter you may want to get a limited slip differential which includes the Supra Turbo part or adding an LSD carrier to the stock housing and gearing. Just the converter and headers will REALLY wake up the car.
May be looking at an intake this summer however cause I think that could probably be done at anypoint really? Did you go with a CAI? Which K&N setup would you go with?
Ye its ok. I'm not lookin for trouble but lets chill guys. I mean, we all drive a Lex, we're all on the same team here. Haha
12-16-09, 12:04 PM
#27
Lexus Champion
"Launch harder" Do you mean as in powerbraking then launch? Which company which you go with while looking for a torque converter? I've done some research and it seems as though "Level 10" performance offers some high quality parts for the Lexus GS300, and most Lexus vehicles. Thanks for the "Order of Improvement" list. Seriously its so nice to have some guidlines from a more expierenced tuner.
This is because it acts like additional gearing and increases the ACTUAL torque at the rear wheels below 2800rpm. More torque means more force to move the car. Similar to the difference between a manual car launching in 2nd gear vs launching in 1st gear (more complicated but you get the idea).
Unlike a modified stock converter (which is less desirable for other reasons as well) the PI is smaller in diameter than stock (9.5" vs 11") which is both lighter in weight and has a lower moment of enertia. Combined this takes less horsepower to spin and that means the engine revs faster and the transmission shifts quicker.
http://www.converter.com/dragon.htm
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=57-9011
12-16-09, 12:32 PM
#28
Lexus Champion
Well, lets say if I wanted to do a HEALTHY sprucing up of my almost 10 YEAR OLD engine and I was willing to spend $4K...what can I get done that will ensure the longevity, retrieve some lost power and perhaps add some additional power. I would DEFINITELY do this over my next mod for sure.
Please anyone...let me know what could be done to accomplish the above - even if it is a little more than the above amount. Thanks!
Please anyone...let me know what could be done to accomplish the above - even if it is a little more than the above amount. Thanks!
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11765
12-20-09, 10:44 PM
#29
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There are two options. I like the Precision Industries (PI) Dragon torque converter at 2800rpm stall speed. This will make the car POTENTIALLY launch harder IF you can get the tires to stick. Otherwise it will make spinning the tires MUCH easier
This is because it acts like additional gearing and increases the ACTUAL torque at the rear wheels below 2800rpm. More torque means more force to move the car. Similar to the difference between a manual car launching in 2nd gear vs launching in 1st gear (more complicated but you get the idea).
Unlike a modified stock converter (which is less desirable for other reasons as well) the PI is smaller in diameter than stock (9.5" vs 11") which is both lighter in weight and has a lower moment of enertia. Combined this takes less horsepower to spin and that means the engine revs faster and the transmission shifts quicker.
http://www.converter.com/dragon.htm
I like the K&N FIPK system. It is a slighly larger diameter tube than stock with a less sharp turn.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=57-9011
This is because it acts like additional gearing and increases the ACTUAL torque at the rear wheels below 2800rpm. More torque means more force to move the car. Similar to the difference between a manual car launching in 2nd gear vs launching in 1st gear (more complicated but you get the idea).
Unlike a modified stock converter (which is less desirable for other reasons as well) the PI is smaller in diameter than stock (9.5" vs 11") which is both lighter in weight and has a lower moment of enertia. Combined this takes less horsepower to spin and that means the engine revs faster and the transmission shifts quicker.
http://www.converter.com/dragon.htm
I like the K&N FIPK system. It is a slighly larger diameter tube than stock with a less sharp turn.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=57-9011
01-11-10, 04:16 PM
#30
Wow, I did not know I was being put on blast over here. I have better stuff to do than argue with you, but it's just annoying how time after time you give useless and false advise, but yet when called on it. insted of taking it like a man and say my bad. You insted just start blabing and well this comes out...
like normal speed.....u wrong but jump on this bandwagon too. you especially should know they had off the shelf kits since you have a SC gs.(i never said they were still in production i just said they had off the shelf kits, i guess i shoulda changed my wording from are several off the shelf kits to were several off the shelf kits)
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