lable on engine says iridium spark plugs only?
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I just red a little lable on the drivers side of the engine, right around the area of the spark plugs, it said Use only Iridium spark plugs, and do not adjust gap... why would they say this? is it because it's a U-lev vehicle and changing spark plugs or adjusting gap would mess that up? I need to know because I was debating on whether to change my spark plugs to get a little more performance out of the engine, thanks
ShOwGS
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you already have Iridium spark plugs in your car, that is the best you can get, what are you gonna change them too? torque master plug? if so, you can't change the gap in torque master plug, just impossible based on their design.
factory Iridium plug come pre-gap from the manufacture, that is why you don't need to adjust the gap (they sell them about 10 time more expensive than conventional plug) they should pre-gap for you too for that much money. But I would double check, just to make sure.. ==> "do not adjust" mean, it already pre-gap correctly, don't need to change anything, it has nothing to do with U-LEV, that is control from the ECU (ignition timming and air mixture), the gap are chosen based on your ignition hardware, engine compression level.....unless you are upgrading something, you don't want to mess with the gap manufacture optimum gap setting==> and yes you can change the gap, it may give you weird idle/stall, but it may give you a few more HP, I won;t do it myself, but post the result if you will hee hee
still looking for some more HP ponny, ShowGSLuVv ?
how about an intake? or Torque converter?
hope that would help.
Anh
factory Iridium plug come pre-gap from the manufacture, that is why you don't need to adjust the gap (they sell them about 10 time more expensive than conventional plug) they should pre-gap for you too for that much money. But I would double check, just to make sure.. ==> "do not adjust" mean, it already pre-gap correctly, don't need to change anything, it has nothing to do with U-LEV, that is control from the ECU (ignition timming and air mixture), the gap are chosen based on your ignition hardware, engine compression level.....unless you are upgrading something, you don't want to mess with the gap manufacture optimum gap setting==> and yes you can change the gap, it may give you weird idle/stall, but it may give you a few more HP, I won;t do it myself, but post the result if you will hee hee
still looking for some more HP ponny, ShowGSLuVv ?
how about an intake? or Torque converter?
hope that would help.
Anh
Last edited by BananaGS; 05-14-02 at 10:28 AM.
#3
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haha yea actually I am, but im trying to tweak the engine, just to make sure everything is running smoothly, Whenever I talk to people, everyone is saying how fast it is and this and that, but I raced an E430 and I could only stay about half a car length on him, and this was like ten times in a row, and if I raced from a roll one time and the time it took for my car to downshift, that benz already downshifted and had about a car length on me, Like I said though everyone i talk to tells me, Oh you'll smoke an E430 and 540 and Clk430, those are no compitition so im really trying to find out why its like that -=o/
ShOwGS
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the torque converter would be your best solution, it allows your engine to slip ==>shift down quicker..
also, are you sure you smash the gas pedal down the the ground? there is a small switch there, if you push the gas pedal all the way down, it should connect the switch and put the ECU into "race mode" hee hee. Also, I was told, don't just step on the gas when you want the car to downshift , let go your foot of the gas pedal and the nail it right back. That will force the car to downshift right the way due to sudden throttle change (the down shift is base on the rpm and throttle windows, depend on where you are in the windows, the gear downshift 1 or 2 gear based on your current rpm and throttle position) get it?
(letting go of your foot from the gas and smash it down will effective tell the car that: "dude or b*tch, I am racing here, get off that lazy butt and shift the gear")
For us GS4 with the shift button, we push the button to shiftdown and wait if the other car want to play, if they do, we already in 3rd hee hee
give it that a try the next time you see a clk430. I told you my trick, you own me a beer
Anh:eek:
also, are you sure you smash the gas pedal down the the ground? there is a small switch there, if you push the gas pedal all the way down, it should connect the switch and put the ECU into "race mode" hee hee. Also, I was told, don't just step on the gas when you want the car to downshift , let go your foot of the gas pedal and the nail it right back. That will force the car to downshift right the way due to sudden throttle change (the down shift is base on the rpm and throttle windows, depend on where you are in the windows, the gear downshift 1 or 2 gear based on your current rpm and throttle position) get it?
(letting go of your foot from the gas and smash it down will effective tell the car that: "dude or b*tch, I am racing here, get off that lazy butt and shift the gear")
For us GS4 with the shift button, we push the button to shiftdown and wait if the other car want to play, if they do, we already in 3rd hee hee
give it that a try the next time you see a clk430. I told you my trick, you own me a beer
Anh:eek:
Last edited by BananaGS; 05-14-02 at 11:13 AM.
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I never had a problem with the E430 I always put a car or two on them!!!!
I also put a car length on a GS430 but he caught up to me at about 90mph and then we had to slow down
I think you just need to study your car alittle more and than go find a E430
and put him in your rearview!
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#9
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I don't know if anyone has ever tried this yet on their car, but HKS makes an ALC unit (automatic line controller I think). And I think they have a second gen. version out already. Alot of z32 owners that mod their cars use it to get an edge.
It's a unit that takes your stock transmission settings, and reprograms it so that it stays at your car's "sweet spot" a little longer and at a bit higher setting... kind of like what's supposed to happen when you turn off the ECT/Power button in our cars, except, when it shifts, you can definitely feel it.
I haven't researched yet if this is applicable to the GS, but I don't see why not.... could be wrong though. Just a suggestion if anyone is looking for better acceleration.
That is all.
It's a unit that takes your stock transmission settings, and reprograms it so that it stays at your car's "sweet spot" a little longer and at a bit higher setting... kind of like what's supposed to happen when you turn off the ECT/Power button in our cars, except, when it shifts, you can definitely feel it.
I haven't researched yet if this is applicable to the GS, but I don't see why not.... could be wrong though. Just a suggestion if anyone is looking for better acceleration.
That is all.
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Originally posted by RacingAristo
zenki,
So basically this HKS unit control ignition timing?
zenki,
So basically this HKS unit control ignition timing?
Sorry, that's my mistake. My info was kind of irrelevant, but HKS does make a twin ignition product to give you that added spark for better performance. I figure that's what you were wondering about RA? The ALC unit is specifically designed for the auto tranny people, and works in tandem with it and has nothing to do with the ignition.
The HKS twin ignition unit on the other hand is designed to help provide better response at low rpm's and higher rpm's through a computer system that HKS says analyzes the engine and provides the correct application for good spark. You can find this on the stillen website or hks's website. I wouldn't recommend this unless you had forced induction, otherwise the benefits would only be marginal, no?
That is all.
#12
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Yes, adding HKS plugs introduce a min gain on NA car. But from Percy and fever, they get decent performance out of torque-master plugs. I'm pretty sure their GS are NA. I wonder if the designs are different.... nevertheless, thanks for your info, zenki.
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