I know that on more modern cars you can disable the auto shift feature. I would like too see a shift happen at 7k rpm, and just have truthful control over the tranny when in manual mode. Thanks!

 

Uh, have you heard of rev limiter?!

 

GS4000 doesn't rev to 7000.

 

I have a gs3. It could easily go another 400 rpm before a shift, and that would probably make these competitive with bmw's in its class.

 

 

hell yes son, now thats what i'm talking about!!!

 

^^^ I know I only have 20 posts so I am a newbie on CL, but I am pretty experienced in the car world. The fact of the matter is that I only put it in the manual mode maybe once every 40 miles for around 1 mile. I would never take it above stock redline at high speeds for an extended period. I feel like with just that extra little bit people could skip over expensive mods such as the srt intake, full exhaust, etc. and give the car a competitive edge. Without a question going to 7000 is easier on the car than constant 10lbs of boost, let alone 20 like others are doing on here.

 

I agree, the auto shift is annoying, but its kinda necessary...

 

Ok.... You say your experienced in cars, and I believe you... But then you say that without question that it is easier on a rotating assembly to rev to 7k rather than 10psi of boost, but with no rhyme or reason, I don't know if I can chew on that quite yet... I don't think I have heard many problems running low boost on a 2J, Anyways....... The reason why your car shifts is because it's electronically controlled, and you can't change that, it's an e-transmission... It shifts because your approaching the rev limiter/fuel cut to avoid any damage, the ECU is basically outsmarting the driver at that point, "Hey buddy, are you going to shift the damn thing, or am I?" Think about it, if you 'disengage' e-shift auto shift, and you go til' 7000rpm with your foot floored, do you think you will be able to promptly shift it right then without over revving 7k, doubtful. The redline is just a grey area where your not supposed to cross, but you can venture in. Yes I have had the engine spin up past the red line, but it was well within it's range. Have you heard of a fella called Ed_JZA80 or Ed? He spun his 1uz up to 9,500rpm, but has spent a fortune doing so, and therefore is a UZ pioneer. Sorry for this little rant, but I think if you actually can disable the autoshifting, which doesn't sound smart, your only affecting the transmission, it is the engine that isn't supposed to rev past a certain point, the transmission ECU programing isn't the problem.

 

The thing is, I like the harder shifts when your going at around 4k rpm. When it revs to 6600(M) or 6800 it does the same soft shift that it would going from 2nd to fifth. IMHO why not jut let it hit a rev limiter like a manual car. In the dodge chagrer srt8's you can disable the auto upshift and let it rev up a little higher than stock. Mind you this is in a push rod engine (throwing rods anyone). Same with the bmw's / mercedes with paddle shifts. They just bounce off the rev limiter. As far as the fuel cutoff that is an issue; however, the next time you floor it in auto from 60+ notice how the car is pulling right until the end, not even the slightest sign of a let up. Lets say that you could only rev to 6800 rpm in manual, that would be fine, but lets get that firm manual shift, not the clutch burner that it does now. Everyone loves to say how the UZ is an extremely strong engine but nobody wants to back it up. --- Just my little rant. What is bringing this up is that I was about to spring for a charger r/t; however, I decided to keep my lexus for a while longer (like 4 yrs). In the mean time I would like to keep the car competitive with modern stock bmw's / mercedes in its class. I got potenzas, and hardwired my V1. Im doing LED's, HID's, probably an SRT filter, and probably some stiffer springs.

 

Ok, I can see we can get along just fine. However, when you talk about the 1UZ not being a strong engine, I think it's safe to say that if you look around you can find the answer. Now that isn't a comparison to the JZ family, different motors. And when you saying the SRT8... I mean, most our cars are before they even built the charger, let alone the SRT8 version., I mean were talking about technology that had been used since 1998, no doubt it lacks ability to tweak like that, it's a Lexus, not a once pronound racecar that change the way people saw muscle cars. When you say you want to make it more competitive, that's fine, but then you list the modifications you have, and not one of them hass to do with performance. It would be a different story if you had intake, headers, exhaust, cams, etc, however that is not the case. I am sure if you fitted the 2JZGE with a standalone you could easily rev to 7k with no real issues. However I think what really limits the amount of revolutions your motor can see if the valvetrain and the ability to breathe at 7k. If you want to make a stock NA motor quick, like a human, you have to build the ability to breathe better, then you can do muscle build, etc. If you can get a built or build your own ECU to allow you to do so, by all means go for it.... But when you look at how easy it is to through 10psi of boost down vs. the same power in NA, I think you would ask yourself why....

 

100% did not mean to say that the 1UZ is not strong, actually what I meant is that it is stronger than most people on here think . I wasn't really comparing the car to the charger, in fact I decided not to buy the charger because I currently have a car that handles better and is nearly as fast as a car that is coming out 10 years later . Truth be told I really love the modded GS's; and if I would have had the car 5 years ago who knows where I would be with it now. At this point though I feel like im getting in to the car a bit late in the game. I plan on just doing a few mods with the most bang for the buck. And yes, none of my mods have been for engine performance (yet) because I figure it is smarter to have good tires and good anti cop measures first.

 

honestly, from experience, those 400RPM you speak of are not going to do anything for you in that GS3 unless you're in a full on drag car.

you actually benefit shifting slightly sooner since the gearing is so high in the rear end, the torque multiplication of the higher trans gears slightly makes up for no top end in the rear.

You say you're experienced in the car world...have you ever dynoed your GS3? Do you know where max power peaks off? Clearly not if you're worried about getting 400 more rpm out of it.

(FYI, yes i have dynoed. 170rwhp @ 6850rpm, and it drops significantly at 7k)

 

I don't know what being experienced in the car world or not has to do with dynoing this car. No I have not dynoed, that's why I asked.

I would still like to do a firm shift at 6800 rpm though, and honestly at this point I would love to spool it out for as long as it takes for it to blow up so I would have an excuse to get rid of this car. Hello petal to the floor in "L"

I honestly dont understand why any response on this forum is so hostile. For cripes sake, imagine shifting your car when you want to in MANUAL mode.

 

Oh, and I know what everyone's reply will be already... "That's exactly why it shifts for you, your stooopid."