My build has began!!!
03-02-10, 02:12 PM
#18
Instructor
Awesome...! Love to see the pre-build pictures, you better keep us informed. I wish I had a 2J to mess with!! And I know JeffTsai is running an AEM standalone to operate his VVT-i solenoid.
03-10-10, 10:10 PM
#23
Driver
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TL, we are doing the swap on the 20 th of this month.. We have to pay close attention to the weather since the swap is being done outside lolzzz... Thanks take care..
03-11-10, 07:52 AM
#25
But, no selling until I am a vendor here so please don't ask until then
My advice, DO NOT wait till the stock twins blow. Pull those suckers off while the GTE motor is still out of the car. It is a pain in the ***....and that's an understatement of how difficult they are to remove once the motor is in the car. Single right off the bat is my advice.
You can use MAPECU2 if you really want to, but make sure you find a tuner that is VERY good with the system. Or else your car will drive like crap around town. It will be awesome for when you're going all out 100% throttle, but how often is that? Keep in mind that the VVTi ecu's are highly adaptive and it goes into failsafe mode or tries to auto correct when it sees something out of the ordinary. With a piggyback, the car does not run very consistently when you try to aim for the high HP levels. Might drive around one day and then sputter the next.
Last edited by JeffTsai; 03-11-10 at 07:56 AM.
03-11-10, 10:17 AM
#28
Driver School Candidate
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correction
Nah, 500whp on stock cams isn't too big of a problem with the right sized turbo lol. Keep in mind...key word "right sized". Njs didn't give any info on the specific turbo size other than saying it's a GT35 series. With a 67mm-ish compressor wheel, it's no problem hitting 550whp on pump 93 octane fuel at around 16-17psi. I've done it many times with stock cams, if you throw on a set of 264's then it will bump the power an additional 40-50whp or so.
I do
But, no selling until I am a vendor here so please don't ask until then
My advice, DO NOT wait till the stock twins blow. Pull those suckers off while the GTE motor is still out of the car. It is a pain in the ***....and that's an understatement of how difficult they are to remove once the motor is in the car. Single right off the bat is my advice.
But, no selling until I am a vendor here so please don't ask until then
My advice, DO NOT wait till the stock twins blow. Pull those suckers off while the GTE motor is still out of the car. It is a pain in the ***....and that's an understatement of how difficult they are to remove once the motor is in the car. Single right off the bat is my advice.
It's very iffy at that kind of power level to run a MAP ECU. Did you ask them how the car really drives? Sure you can make a MAP ECU2 run a 800hp car an have it run perfect when flying down the track at wide open. The problem arises when you have to drive around town. Tuning for WOT is simple, around town driving is where it gets tricky. The problem with the MAPECU is that it is not so good for daily driving consistency. Trust me, I have tuned a lot of systems already. AEM EMS, AEM FIC, Haltechs f10x,e11v2,plat1000/2000, TEC2/3, Motec M600, MAPECU1/2, Hondata, and a few more I'm forgetting...you name it I can probably set it up lol.
You can use MAPECU2 if you really want to, but make sure you find a tuner that is VERY good with the system. Or else your car will drive like crap around town. It will be awesome for when you're going all out 100% throttle, but how often is that? Keep in mind that the VVTi ecu's are highly adaptive and it goes into failsafe mode or tries to auto correct when it sees something out of the ordinary. With a piggyback, the car does not run very consistently when you try to aim for the high HP levels. Might drive around one day and then sputter the next.
You can use MAPECU2 if you really want to, but make sure you find a tuner that is VERY good with the system. Or else your car will drive like crap around town. It will be awesome for when you're going all out 100% throttle, but how often is that? Keep in mind that the VVTi ecu's are highly adaptive and it goes into failsafe mode or tries to auto correct when it sees something out of the ordinary. With a piggyback, the car does not run very consistently when you try to aim for the high HP levels. Might drive around one day and then sputter the next.
Last edited by Dregus619; 03-11-10 at 10:55 AM. Reason: had to adjust the quotes
03-11-10, 12:28 PM
#29
you can hit 500whp with the stock cams and turbos only if its a US motor. with that, all you need to do is turn up the boost to 18psi. your turbos will be max out. but you'll hit it. the differance between the jdm and US motor is for one the injectors two the cams. the JDM motor comes with smaller cams and injectors. As for the US motor comes with bigger. US motor is running 550cc when the JDM is running 440cc. not only that if you think that, right off the bat your going to get 320 stock with the JDM motor your wrong. JDM comes stock with 280. if you want to jump up on HP for cheap buy some ones used injectors and cams for a cheap and quick upgrade. just make sure that the parts came off of a US 2JZ-GTE motor.
agree it is a pain in the butt to take them off when in the engine bay...but then again what isnts hard when taking parts of an engine when its already in the car!
OK let me start off by saying that almost no one makes a standalone for the VVTI engine. now if you do your research on the map ECU 2 you would know that it is a standalone that plugs in like a piggyback. and is fully capable of handling the VVTI. now the AEM EMS that everyone is saying to use is wrong. the AEM EMS is not and will never be capable of working with the 2jz VVTI engine. I have spoken to the techs at AEM. that system was not built for the VVTI. people have tried to modify the system by disconnecting a few resisters. but that doesnt change the fact that the system wont be able to read signal. now if you feel ok by opening up your $1700 computer and removing some resisters by all means try it. you just throw your money out the window. better yet let me have it..lol...i have the map ECU 2 in my supra and i use it as a daily driver...i have 753whp dino. and my car runs just fine. until they make any other standalones for this engine i strongly recomend the map ecu 2. when it comes to the VVTI engine i dont put anything else. and its very affordable for just $725, rather then $1700 for something that is use less to you. now for all of you that really dont know much about the VVTI and what it does. it changes the timing by using the intake cam. which is why you have this gear at the end of it. that gear is what the sensors runs off of to adjust the timing. now when you disconnect or run a standalone that isnt capable of reading the signal. what happens is that the intake cam will continue to spin that gear and adjust the timeing. no if you dont have anything reading that signal. your engine is going to run and sound like crap! now when you run full throttle of course its going to sound and run good (sort of) remember you have a force induction engine. FYI i work for toyota as a TRD mechanic. Eat, Sleep, and Breath Toyota!
agree it is a pain in the butt to take them off when in the engine bay...but then again what isnts hard when taking parts of an engine when its already in the car!
OK let me start off by saying that almost no one makes a standalone for the VVTI engine. now if you do your research on the map ECU 2 you would know that it is a standalone that plugs in like a piggyback. and is fully capable of handling the VVTI. now the AEM EMS that everyone is saying to use is wrong. the AEM EMS is not and will never be capable of working with the 2jz VVTI engine. I have spoken to the techs at AEM. that system was not built for the VVTI. people have tried to modify the system by disconnecting a few resisters. but that doesnt change the fact that the system wont be able to read signal. now if you feel ok by opening up your $1700 computer and removing some resisters by all means try it. you just throw your money out the window. better yet let me have it..lol...i have the map ECU 2 in my supra and i use it as a daily driver...i have 753whp dino. and my car runs just fine. until they make any other standalones for this engine i strongly recomend the map ecu 2. when it comes to the VVTI engine i dont put anything else. and its very affordable for just $725, rather then $1700 for something that is use less to you. now for all of you that really dont know much about the VVTI and what it does. it changes the timing by using the intake cam. which is why you have this gear at the end of it. that gear is what the sensors runs off of to adjust the timing. now when you disconnect or run a standalone that isnt capable of reading the signal. what happens is that the intake cam will continue to spin that gear and adjust the timeing. no if you dont have anything reading that signal. your engine is going to run and sound like crap! now when you run full throttle of course its going to sound and run good (sort of) remember you have a force induction engine. FYI i work for toyota as a TRD mechanic. Eat, Sleep, and Breath Toyota!
Definition of a standalone ECU: Generates it's own signals to injector and ignition signal pulses.
Piggyback(mapecu2): Takes stock ecu's ouput and skews/modifies the output signal.
While this may work perfectly fine on the older non-vvti supras. Those had different ECUs, the newer VVTi ECU's are extremly sensitive to any unknown changes. The piggybacks don't work as consistenly on the VVTi ecu's.
Working on a USDM supra is different than these cars. The MKIV Supra Turbo never came with VVTi in the US. The EMS is not officially supported to work by AEM thats why they tell you it's not compatible. I am running an EMS in my car and I have a well documented guide on how to modify the box to run the EMS. It's 2 resistors and 2 jumpers. Of course this will void the warranty on the EMS, but that's a given when you're modding a box. But, that's why I buy them used from ebay since those boxes are out of warranty already. You can find them used for around $600-800 range or so. Much better value for what it can do compared to a MAP ECU2.
I don't know how much experience you have on modifying Lexus or JDM VVTi Supras/Aristos...so I won't pass any pre-judgement. Just saying that these are very different(electronically) compared to the non-VVTI 2JZ engines.
Also, yes it is possible to hit 550whp on stock cams. The 2JZ-GE VVTi(stock GS300/IS300 motor) and 2JZ-GTE VVTi(Aristo MK2 V300) share the same cams. Stock cams are perfectly capable of hitting 550whp on a 67mm single turbo.
And yes the EMS can control the VVTi system. It can actually control twin banks of VVTi as it has two variable valve timng solenoid drivers. The 2JZ-GTE VVTI only has variable timing on the intake cam so that's no problem for the EMS.