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Bad cat = screwed! ;(...but their is a silver lining in this!

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Old 04-19-10, 06:01 AM
  #31  
Rock-a-Lex
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Originally Posted by speedaddic
It will take about 100mi of driving for the code to come back up...let us know Rock. Last time I drove my car it was doing the same thing. I haven't seen my car since last year...
No CEL and still runs GREAT!
Old 04-19-10, 06:04 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jconyers2
Yes your cat isnt clogged its the seals throughout your exhaust needs replaced they tried to sell me this at the dealer ship and I took it to midas and they found an exhaust leak so I bought the new seals and the light went away and everything is fine now its very quite once again.
Jconyers2 - sorry but your wrong. The cats that they took out were shot. Well one was definitely; the passenger side (the one they told me that was shot). I picked it up the other day and shook it around...it sounded like a pinball machine. lol! The other one was relatively quite when I shook it - but still, I'm sure it was on it's last leg as well. I just figured I'd replace both.
Old 04-19-10, 06:13 AM
  #33  
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you might as well get a custom built exhaust from the cat back.
Old 04-19-10, 12:23 PM
  #34  
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Your increase in piping, if you were to open up your whole exhaust to 2.25" will help your exhaust flow and give you more HP/TQ.

Might want to look into that, since you are going for NA powahhhhh.
Old 04-25-10, 04:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex

So, now my shop says that eventhough they are finding the right front cat to be the culprit they want to replace both of them because they feel that the front left cat could be on it's way as well. In order for them to perform this service and warranty all they want to replace both...to the tune of $1100 EACH! Plus a couple of hour of labor; so, I am looking at a $2500 bill.
Are there any suggestions or different routes that you guys can recommend?
Could you tell that shop to go **** themselves?
Here's what it takes to install the cats yourself.
You ready for this?
1 14mm box wrench
1 14mm ratchet
extensions and PB blaster to taste
buy the cats and the cat gaskets from lexus of pembroke pines (even cheaper than carson) and save a TON of bucks.
Old 04-26-10, 07:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Thermactor
Could you tell that shop to go **** themselves?
Here's what it takes to install the cats yourself.
You ready for this?
1 14mm box wrench
1 14mm ratchet
extensions and PB blaster to taste
buy the cats and the cat gaskets from lexus of pembroke pines (even cheaper than carson) and save a TON of bucks.
Well, I contacted a bunch of Lexus dealers and all wanted anywhere from $900-$1100 for EACH oem cat! I decided to buy two oe replacement cats for $175/ea. Everything works fine now...no CEL!
Old 04-26-10, 07:51 AM
  #37  
austin7891
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where did you buy them? i just got p0420 catalyst inefficieny
Old 01-23-11, 07:24 PM
  #38  
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Po430 code fix. I battled this for a month and came up with a good cheap fix. I had the po430 code on a 2002 IS300. The cheap fix is to tie both of the bank 1 & 2 sensor 2 input wires at the ecu to the bank one sensor 2 output at the ecu. I used one gold plated butt splice connector at the ecu plug. You must leave both sensors and wiring in place good or bad for the heater load and bank one o2 sensor 2 must be good. You can find the pin out wiring diagram online at o2simulator.com. I feel as though it is a design flaw that everyone over 100K will have to deal with. You can spend thousands on cats and o2's and labor or a 20 cent butt splice connector. Hope this helps everyone.
Old 01-25-11, 07:43 PM
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Hey rock, BTW did you notice any performance increase with the new cats compared to your old ones? What type did you go with?
Old 01-25-11, 08:34 PM
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I'll be damned if you can get better performance over the stock cat. The OEM's core substrate is pretty free flowing already. If you hold it up to the sun, you can see light through it. Think of it as a honey comb.
Old 01-26-11, 06:46 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by TLcoats
Hey rock, BTW did you notice any performance increase with the new cats compared to your old ones? What type did you go with?
Exactly the same...no difference in anything; I replaced both cats. I think they costed me something like $185/ea. Not bad versus the $1200/ea at the dealership or ~ $850/ea at Carson Toyota/Lexus. They were NOT universal ones...they were made for the vehicle with flanges and all. Some offered were universal type that needed to be welded in...I did not want that.

Link:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...converter.html

Old 01-26-11, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex
Exactly the same...no difference in anything; I replaced both cats. I think they costed me something like $185/ea. Not bad versus the $1200/ea at the dealership or ~ $850/ea at Carson Toyota/Lexus. They were NOT universal ones...they were made for the vehicle with flanges and all. Some offered were universal type that needed to be welded in...I did not want that.

Link:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...converter.html

Thanks rock! The reason i asked was because i think one or both of my cats might be going. Sometimes when i get on it, it sounds like theres pieces of metal breaking/loose in my exhaust system. Just wondered if there were any benenfits as well. Good to know!
Old 01-26-11, 08:49 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TLcoats
Thanks rock! The reason i asked was because i think one or both of my cats might be going. Sometimes when i get on it, it sounds like theres pieces of metal breaking/loose in my exhaust system. Just wondered if there were any benenfits as well. Good to know!
Also, check that your heat shiled(s) aren't clanging around. They could be loose or rusted out. If loose, tighten up...if rusted take off (it really isn't needed anyway; just don't park on top of a high pile of dry leaves. lol)
Old 01-26-11, 10:48 AM
  #44  
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Ok, going from memory here but I contacted (almost positive it was Eastern) about there direct fit replacement cats for the GS400 and confirmed that they use a ceramic core instead of the stock and more expensive metal substrate core (OEM). While ceramic functions it will not flow as well as the stock core. Unfortunately I am unaware of any direct fit aftermarket cats with the metal substrate cores.

Secondly, the GS400 only has 2 catalysts. The GS400 does not have a cat in the Y pipe. The GS430 has 3 catalysts with one in the Y pipe.

The stock Y pipe is slightly under 2 inches OD. Using a catalyst with an outlet pipe size of 2.25" will create some flow loss as it will create a "step" between the cat pipe outlet and the Y pipe inlet.

Metal substrate catalysts are available in a univeral style bullet. This can be welded to the stock flanges at the correct angles by a competent welder/fabricator. These cats run apx $150ea so add whatever welding/fab costs and you get the idea. These cats like many aftermarket cats are probalby made in China. I have NO idea how durable the will be in our applications. Highly doubtful they will have OEM reliability. If and when my cats go this will be my option and I will re-do as and if necessary.

One contributing condition to catalyst failure is fuel mixture. Too lean increases exhaust gas temperature and too rich increases catalytic action both conditions can increase in cat operating temperature. This reduces catalyst life. Tuning our engines to a leaner operating condition to increase power MAY reduce catalyst life. OEM are definitely my first choice but at $1k each they will not be my replacement choice.

Catalyst flow is a combination of catalyst core material, shape, area and cell count. Generally the LOWER the cell count per inch the LARGER each cell is and the HIGHER flow the core is. This is especially true of metal substrate cats that use a metal "foil" which wraps in a spiral fashion that resembles a "screen" as you look at it. Ceramic cores are usually even rows of small square holes with the area between each hole being thicker than the thin foil of the metal core.

Below is a high flow metal core and a high flow ceramic core. Notice the larger holes on the spiral shaped metal core. The pictures are not to scale. Try to imagine the metal core diameter being the same as the ceramic and you should get the idea of the higher flow.
Attached Thumbnails Bad cat = screwed! ;(...but their is a silver lining in this!-catalyst.jpg   Bad cat = screwed! ;(...but their is a silver lining in this!-bmw-e46-m3-400-cpi-ceramic-oem-catalyst-core.jpg  
Old 01-26-11, 11:36 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by JBrady
Ok, going from memory here but I contacted (almost positive it was Eastern) about there direct fit replacement cats for the GS400 and confirmed that they use a ceramic core instead of the stock and more expensive metal substrate core (OEM). While ceramic functions it will not flow as well as the stock core. Unfortunately I am unaware of any direct fit aftermarket cats with the metal substrate cores.

Secondly, the GS400 only has 2 catalysts. The GS400 does not have a cat in the Y pipe. The GS430 has 3 catalysts with one in the Y pipe.

The stock Y pipe is slightly under 2 inches OD. Using a catalyst with an outlet pipe size of 2.25" will create some flow loss as it will create a "step" between the cat pipe outlet and the Y pipe inlet.

Metal substrate catalysts are available in a univeral style bullet. This can be welded to the stock flanges at the correct angles by a competent welder/fabricator. These cats run apx $150ea so add whatever welding/fab costs and you get the idea. These cats like many aftermarket cats are probalby made in China. I have NO idea how durable the will be in our applications. Highly doubtful they will have OEM reliability. If and when my cats go this will be my option and I will re-do as and if necessary.

One contributing condition to catalyst failure is fuel mixture. Too lean increases exhaust gas temperature and too rich increases catalytic action both conditions can increase in cat operating temperature. This reduces catalyst life. Tuning our engines to a leaner operating condition to increase power MAY reduce catalyst life. OEM are definitely my first choice but at $1k each they will not be my replacement choice.

Catalyst flow is a combination of catalyst core material, shape, area and cell count. Generally the LOWER the cell count per inch the LARGER each cell is and the HIGHER flow the core is. This is especially true of metal substrate cats that use a metal "foil" which wraps in a spiral fashion that resembles a "screen" as you look at it. Ceramic cores are usually even rows of small square holes with the area between each hole being thicker than the thin foil of the metal core.

Below is a high flow metal core and a high flow ceramic core. Notice the larger holes on the spiral shaped metal core. The pictures are not to scale. Try to imagine the metal core diameter being the same as the ceramic and you should get the idea of the higher flow.

All I know is the replacements I bought looks exactly like the OEM ones they replaced. The outside shell is even the same. The inlet and outlet pipe sizes are the same. I know and knew at the time when I purchased these aftermarket cats that it has a ceramic substrate and NOT the oem metal type that has precious metals in it. IMHO, with a 10yr old car it would be stupid of me to drop $2400 bucks just for new cats with perhaps slightly better flow. I am all about performance and I would be the first one to say that I have not noticed a difference in performance...perhaps because I went from failing oem cats to new aftermarket cats. All I know is, it works, the car rides fine, I am able to pass NYS inspection and I do not get anymore CEL codes. All while saving a TON of money. IMHO this was the most intelligent choice.


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