04 GS300 Turbo Install Problems - Need Advise If Anyone Can Help
03-29-10, 06:12 AM
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04 GS300 Turbo Install Problems - Need Advise If Anyone Can Help
I'm looking for any advise that you guys might have regarding a turbo install on an 04 GS300 with the 2jz GE 3.0 motor. This is my first import project and so far I haven't had much luck so I'm basically going to start from scratch, take it slow and do it right so that hopefully I can come out of this with a moderate 400 - 500 hp somewhat reliable ride.
With that said, as of now I tried to save some cash and went with a bolt on Ebay kit, and although It could possibly work, I don't want to majorly screw up the motor. Due to cheep parts, things not fitting correctly and trying to rush everything, the first day of tuning without a dyno went ok but the second day resulted in the oil line fitting on top the turbo coming loose, spraying oil onto the turbo and catching on fire. It was caught in time and only melted a few bits that can easily be replaced so I'm going to try and do the install right this time and with good equipment but have a few questions.
1.) I have been told the compression is different in the GE and GTE motors and that I need to change the Head-gasket with a 1.3 mm up to a 2.5 mm gasket and need to change the injectors. Any thoughts on if this does indeed need to be done and if so what size injectors and gasket?
2.) Any suggestions on a smaller, moderately priced turbo that will fit ok due to the limited space, and should I stay with a 38mm w/g & 50 mm BOV or should I go up or down on either one of those?
3.) The ebay kit came with an AEM FIC but talking with various people there hasn't been much success getting the car tuned using the FIC because of the self learning computer. Due to that info I purchased an APEXI NEO. Has anyone had any luck with either, or any luck with a piggyback system at all or should I just bite the bullet and get a full replacement and if so what kind do you suggest?
4.) There are 4 O2 sensors on the car. As of now I have all 4 still hooked up and a 5th wide-band O2 tapped in under the car right before the connection to the mid-pipe. The dashboard looks like a damn Christmas tree and I was told using the NEO I cannot get around this and just have to deal with it. I was also told to unhook all 4 O2's so that the car goes into limp mode I think it was called and run the AEM FIC instead. Any help at all on the O2 situation or past experience info from someone would be great?
5.) I'm using the AEM wide-band O2 simply for reference, it is not hooked into the car or the NEO anywhere is this correct? Also I have an AEM UGO in order to control the boost but was told to put in a manual boost controller also for a backup. Does the manual controller go in-line in between the W/G and the UGO controller, or does it go before?
6.) I have the downpipe wrapped but even before the fire had a major heat problem around the turbo. I was told to put a heat shield and turbo blanket on which is on order but they said do not wrap the headers. Mentioning this to other people they said as long as I put a high heat coating on the headers before I wrap them it ok and a good thing to do. Also I have been told to put the Aristo intake on the car because it moves everything cool to the drivers side and leaves just the turbo and what not on the passenger side. Is this a good idea, must do idea, never heard of it idea and where would I buy something like that at?
7.) In general just any other FYI's that I need to be aware of or any advise at all will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for anybody that can help.
With that said, as of now I tried to save some cash and went with a bolt on Ebay kit, and although It could possibly work, I don't want to majorly screw up the motor. Due to cheep parts, things not fitting correctly and trying to rush everything, the first day of tuning without a dyno went ok but the second day resulted in the oil line fitting on top the turbo coming loose, spraying oil onto the turbo and catching on fire. It was caught in time and only melted a few bits that can easily be replaced so I'm going to try and do the install right this time and with good equipment but have a few questions.
1.) I have been told the compression is different in the GE and GTE motors and that I need to change the Head-gasket with a 1.3 mm up to a 2.5 mm gasket and need to change the injectors. Any thoughts on if this does indeed need to be done and if so what size injectors and gasket?
2.) Any suggestions on a smaller, moderately priced turbo that will fit ok due to the limited space, and should I stay with a 38mm w/g & 50 mm BOV or should I go up or down on either one of those?
3.) The ebay kit came with an AEM FIC but talking with various people there hasn't been much success getting the car tuned using the FIC because of the self learning computer. Due to that info I purchased an APEXI NEO. Has anyone had any luck with either, or any luck with a piggyback system at all or should I just bite the bullet and get a full replacement and if so what kind do you suggest?
4.) There are 4 O2 sensors on the car. As of now I have all 4 still hooked up and a 5th wide-band O2 tapped in under the car right before the connection to the mid-pipe. The dashboard looks like a damn Christmas tree and I was told using the NEO I cannot get around this and just have to deal with it. I was also told to unhook all 4 O2's so that the car goes into limp mode I think it was called and run the AEM FIC instead. Any help at all on the O2 situation or past experience info from someone would be great?
5.) I'm using the AEM wide-band O2 simply for reference, it is not hooked into the car or the NEO anywhere is this correct? Also I have an AEM UGO in order to control the boost but was told to put in a manual boost controller also for a backup. Does the manual controller go in-line in between the W/G and the UGO controller, or does it go before?
6.) I have the downpipe wrapped but even before the fire had a major heat problem around the turbo. I was told to put a heat shield and turbo blanket on which is on order but they said do not wrap the headers. Mentioning this to other people they said as long as I put a high heat coating on the headers before I wrap them it ok and a good thing to do. Also I have been told to put the Aristo intake on the car because it moves everything cool to the drivers side and leaves just the turbo and what not on the passenger side. Is this a good idea, must do idea, never heard of it idea and where would I buy something like that at?
7.) In general just any other FYI's that I need to be aware of or any advise at all will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for anybody that can help.
03-29-10, 09:24 AM
#2
No offense on this, but do you have experience with building turbo'd cars? There are a lot of things you must pay attention to for safety(fire) reasons. I'll admit, I've had my own learning experiences regarding that lol.
Anyways, I'll try to answer your questions.
1. Yes compression is different between the GE and GTE. Stock GE is 10.5:1 and GTE is 8.5:1. Putting a 1.3mm GTE headgasket on the GE will resut in around 9.5:1 or so CR. Putting the 2.5mm will drop you down close to 8.7:1 or so range. And yes you need to change injectors to bigger ones if you plan to make more than 275-300hp.
2. Smaller turbo, get a precision 61mm or somewhere in the range. 38mm gate is fine with the 61mm turbo. Make sure it's a good brand name unit, or at least test it out with air pressure if it's a ebay knock off part. BOV doesnt really matter much, you can't really oversize it.
3. You did the wrong thing lol. The SAFC NEO is a piece of junk when it comes to tuning these car to run with a piggyback and turbo. The FIC is what I recommend, but you really have to know how to tune the car properly in regards to fuel trims and o2 feedback with the stock ecu. It still has it quirks from time to time, but not too bad. I would suggest going to a standalone if you want everyday consistency. I run an AEM EMS standalone on my car and it go on road trips and I can daily drive the car no problems.
4. Keep all of the O2 in there. You will have to run the O2 offset map in the FIC for the 2 primary O2's. The two secondary O2's you just need to put an O2 sim on it to keep the stock computer happy.
5. Who the heck told you to run 2 boost controllers lol. Go slap them, and just put in one. If you really want to run 2 separate ones, then you set it up like this. Have a Y-fitting come out of the turbo or charge pipe. One side going to the turbo/pipe and the other 2 go to each boost controller. Then have another y-fitting. One end of the Y goes to the wastegate side port, and the other two ends to each of the boost controllers.
6. Don't wrap downpipes,manifolds, or anything near the turbo. It can be a major fire hazard if any oil happens to drip on them. The turbo blanket is a good idea, and for the rest of the stuff, just get it coated with high temp ceramic coat. For the Aristo intake, they mean the GTE intake manifold. The non turbo engine has the intake coming right above the headers, or in your case the flaming hot turbo. The GTE intake manifold is on the other side of the engine so the charge pipe does not get superheated by the turbo. To do it or not is up to you, but I can tell you it's going to cost you at least $500-800 in parts because those are very rare and hard parts to find.
7. Anything else, just be careful. Make sure you know how the fittings work and seal with each other. Never mix different types of fittings together(BSPT, NPT, AN), they will not thread properly or will leak. Never put teflon tape on AN fittings or it will leak.
I have a few writeups here on turbo builds and such. I'll post them later when I have time.
Anyways, I'll try to answer your questions.
1. Yes compression is different between the GE and GTE. Stock GE is 10.5:1 and GTE is 8.5:1. Putting a 1.3mm GTE headgasket on the GE will resut in around 9.5:1 or so CR. Putting the 2.5mm will drop you down close to 8.7:1 or so range. And yes you need to change injectors to bigger ones if you plan to make more than 275-300hp.
2. Smaller turbo, get a precision 61mm or somewhere in the range. 38mm gate is fine with the 61mm turbo. Make sure it's a good brand name unit, or at least test it out with air pressure if it's a ebay knock off part. BOV doesnt really matter much, you can't really oversize it.
3. You did the wrong thing lol. The SAFC NEO is a piece of junk when it comes to tuning these car to run with a piggyback and turbo. The FIC is what I recommend, but you really have to know how to tune the car properly in regards to fuel trims and o2 feedback with the stock ecu. It still has it quirks from time to time, but not too bad. I would suggest going to a standalone if you want everyday consistency. I run an AEM EMS standalone on my car and it go on road trips and I can daily drive the car no problems.
4. Keep all of the O2 in there. You will have to run the O2 offset map in the FIC for the 2 primary O2's. The two secondary O2's you just need to put an O2 sim on it to keep the stock computer happy.
5. Who the heck told you to run 2 boost controllers lol. Go slap them, and just put in one. If you really want to run 2 separate ones, then you set it up like this. Have a Y-fitting come out of the turbo or charge pipe. One side going to the turbo/pipe and the other 2 go to each boost controller. Then have another y-fitting. One end of the Y goes to the wastegate side port, and the other two ends to each of the boost controllers.
6. Don't wrap downpipes,manifolds, or anything near the turbo. It can be a major fire hazard if any oil happens to drip on them. The turbo blanket is a good idea, and for the rest of the stuff, just get it coated with high temp ceramic coat. For the Aristo intake, they mean the GTE intake manifold. The non turbo engine has the intake coming right above the headers, or in your case the flaming hot turbo. The GTE intake manifold is on the other side of the engine so the charge pipe does not get superheated by the turbo. To do it or not is up to you, but I can tell you it's going to cost you at least $500-800 in parts because those are very rare and hard parts to find.
7. Anything else, just be careful. Make sure you know how the fittings work and seal with each other. Never mix different types of fittings together(BSPT, NPT, AN), they will not thread properly or will leak. Never put teflon tape on AN fittings or it will leak.
I have a few writeups here on turbo builds and such. I'll post them later when I have time.
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