GTE vs LS1
04-25-10, 01:20 PM
#16
Thanks man, yeah I got tired of people either not having cars that were dyno'd or having them dyno some SRT4 that is like a light switch, flick it and it will make power, otherwise it's a neon.. 400hp and your still gay, HAHA. I was going to try to follow you onto 169, but you went north and I was going south.
Anyways as far as the LS_ goes... Yes, you can buy a low mileage LS1 motor for around $2,000, or you can find a higher mileage one with the tranny for about $2,500. But the LS1 is almost 14 years old now, even the newest production LS1 was in the 04' vette, which was around 7 years ago. My thinking is that if you were going to go through all the trouble to do the swap, but not go LS2/3/7/X because all those motors start at 400hp. You can buy a create LS3 that comes with 430hp and 423tq, and that's not after cam, intake, exhaust, etc.... from summit it is close to $9,000 for a 0 mile LS3 crate, and that's without a transmission. I understand no one would need to buy that new of motor to achieve that, but that's just to show you a starting point with the LS_ motor. Hell if you are really skeptical, cruise over to LS1tech.com, and you will see the potential.
As far as the mounts, I'm sure it's safe to say that most of us don't know people that will spend a total of 3-5 hours + materials to fabricate and be willing to modify the existing mounts to make that happen. So with that being said, lets try to focus on what the mount kit might cost to have someone make them, and I think it could be done far cheaper than $1,000 that DGR is charging. Not that it isn't a very good kit, and worth that for their R&D, I just don't have that kind of money. I have a tig welder, access to a sheetmetal shop, and cheap steel so... Like you I can create my own for a lot cheaper, but lets focus on what a general kit might cost. Right now the DGR kit is around $1,000.
For the oil pan I thought $250 might be a little low. There's only one CTS-V oil pan on eBay and it's going for $275, and granted you might have access to something cheaper, but everyone doesn't. So for $250, plus the modifying you need to do to the pan, I would fit it hard to believe someone would do it for free, I sure wouldn't. There's probably a good 2-3 of cutting/welding in that. There are a couple of LS_ swap oil pans on the market, but they are close to $400. Again, I can do all my own work, I am just trying to give a general number for the swap, and $250 might be a little low. Last time I checked, they weren't giving away GTO oil pans.
And as far as the install, yeah we can agree that the number will range from "free" to "expensive", the number's are all going to vary some bit.
I would go 1 of 2 ways, I would go dirt cheap and buy a cheap 5.3 block, make a poor man's LS motor. Another possibility in their route is the 6.0 iron block, the LQ4. The other route would be to buy a used LS3, although you pay a little more money, the amount of power you start with is noticeable. And likely it would take the difference you would save from the motors, you would likely put back in to create that power...
P.S. if you are a real baller you either buy an LS9, LSA, or LT5 motors...
Anyways as far as the LS_ goes... Yes, you can buy a low mileage LS1 motor for around $2,000, or you can find a higher mileage one with the tranny for about $2,500. But the LS1 is almost 14 years old now, even the newest production LS1 was in the 04' vette, which was around 7 years ago. My thinking is that if you were going to go through all the trouble to do the swap, but not go LS2/3/7/X because all those motors start at 400hp. You can buy a create LS3 that comes with 430hp and 423tq, and that's not after cam, intake, exhaust, etc.... from summit it is close to $9,000 for a 0 mile LS3 crate, and that's without a transmission. I understand no one would need to buy that new of motor to achieve that, but that's just to show you a starting point with the LS_ motor. Hell if you are really skeptical, cruise over to LS1tech.com, and you will see the potential.
As far as the mounts, I'm sure it's safe to say that most of us don't know people that will spend a total of 3-5 hours + materials to fabricate and be willing to modify the existing mounts to make that happen. So with that being said, lets try to focus on what the mount kit might cost to have someone make them, and I think it could be done far cheaper than $1,000 that DGR is charging. Not that it isn't a very good kit, and worth that for their R&D, I just don't have that kind of money. I have a tig welder, access to a sheetmetal shop, and cheap steel so... Like you I can create my own for a lot cheaper, but lets focus on what a general kit might cost. Right now the DGR kit is around $1,000.
For the oil pan I thought $250 might be a little low. There's only one CTS-V oil pan on eBay and it's going for $275, and granted you might have access to something cheaper, but everyone doesn't. So for $250, plus the modifying you need to do to the pan, I would fit it hard to believe someone would do it for free, I sure wouldn't. There's probably a good 2-3 of cutting/welding in that. There are a couple of LS_ swap oil pans on the market, but they are close to $400. Again, I can do all my own work, I am just trying to give a general number for the swap, and $250 might be a little low. Last time I checked, they weren't giving away GTO oil pans.
And as far as the install, yeah we can agree that the number will range from "free" to "expensive", the number's are all going to vary some bit.
I would go 1 of 2 ways, I would go dirt cheap and buy a cheap 5.3 block, make a poor man's LS motor. Another possibility in their route is the 6.0 iron block, the LQ4. The other route would be to buy a used LS3, although you pay a little more money, the amount of power you start with is noticeable. And likely it would take the difference you would save from the motors, you would likely put back in to create that power...
P.S. if you are a real baller you either buy an LS9, LSA, or LT5 motors...
Well i guess the motors that i was looking on ebay was ls2 motors with around 20-30k miles complete with wiring harness, ecu, tranny, the complete pull out, so if you can find a better deal then that, maybe i need to shop around for better deals. I'll check that web site out for more info. as for the oil pan, that's the cost for me to send them the stock oil pan and have them custom it and send it back to me, of course i pay for shipping.
P.S. if you are a real baller life would be so much easier.
Yo, OP any updates?
04-25-10, 03:21 PM
#17
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Holy writeups guys. lol. I'm still up and down with the idea. I figure I'll spend roughly$3500-4000 just for a complete LS1. I still need to do wiring, auto to manual, mounts and so on and have ~300whp. OR I can get a complete GTE for about $2000-$2500 and have ~300whp with stock twins. From the getgo the GTE seems to have almost as much power for less. With the extra $2k that I would have just spent on the LS motor I could be a little over 400 to the wheels.
Would it honestly be better in the long run to just get the GTE instead of messing around with my GE? I know the GTE bottom end is better for higher HP because the pistons are better. but can the stock GTE tranny hold 450whp easier than the GE tranny with little mods?
Would it honestly be better in the long run to just get the GTE instead of messing around with my GE? I know the GTE bottom end is better for higher HP because the pistons are better. but can the stock GTE tranny hold 450whp easier than the GE tranny with little mods?
04-25-10, 04:38 PM
#18
Holy writeups guys. lol. I'm still up and down with the idea. I figure I'll spend roughly$3500-4000 just for a complete LS1. I still need to do wiring, auto to manual, mounts and so on and have ~300whp. OR I can get a complete GTE for about $2000-$2500 and have ~300whp with stock twins. From the getgo the GTE seems to have almost as much power for less. With the extra $2k that I would have just spent on the LS motor I could be a little over 400 to the wheels.
Would it honestly be better in the long run to just get the GTE instead of messing around with my GE? I know the GTE bottom end is better for higher HP because the pistons are better. but can the stock GTE tranny hold 450whp easier than the GE tranny with little mods?
Would it honestly be better in the long run to just get the GTE instead of messing around with my GE? I know the GTE bottom end is better for higher HP because the pistons are better. but can the stock GTE tranny hold 450whp easier than the GE tranny with little mods?
I myself was in the same delema that you'r ein now, but after weighing the cost for what I wanted to achieve, I decided to go Na-t instead. I too am aiming for ~450whp and should be right on target with what I got.
04-25-10, 04:48 PM
#19
Instructor
Long, $4,500 is a pretty decent price for an LS2 just because it's a newer and larger LS1, and overall it's a better motor.. You get what you pay for, and that's not bad. Why not just go all out and buy the LS7, 427 small block, just kidding, it's like $13.5k for a crate motor, but you start out with 500+ horsepower.
OP, again, "it's 6 in one, half a dozen in the other". It's the same thing. You can buy an LS2 that makes 400hp out of the box, or you can buy a GTE and go single turbo be around the same power. This is what i'm trying to get at though.. After you go single GTE, all of your options are limited. You can go broke and buy a V16_, You can have a built A34_ or A650e for a pricey sum, and you can guarantee it won't last forever, Or you could buy a R154/W58 a limit your horsepower to about 400~500rwhp. Whereas.... if you look over at the bowtie boys who seem to have fewer problems, even the Supra guys now are starting to run GM trannys. Turbo 400, 4L60, 700R4, T-56 or anything else that bolts up to a 350 Chevy. We could discuss this for days, but strictly speaking about the engine, and not budget, if you say that a 2JZ has more potential, or is cheaper to achieve 400rwhp, I think it's safe to say that an LS_ could EASILY achieve the same results, on a broader scale.
Do you work on cars yourself, like more than just the little stuff, do you feel comfortable building an engine? You can build your GE to be just as strong as the GTE. Now I am a little foggy and don't recall the specs of everything, but I know most NA-T people around here with GE blocks have GTE pistons. However most of these guys are putting around 600 to the wheels, but I can't verify it, as I'm not the owner, but I've met most of them. If any one in the Twin Cities has seen a red IS300 "YU LOST", he is dangerous with over 650 to the wheels. Again, something to consider, he is more of the extreme but has gone through a couple trannys, and currently is running a boost logic tranny that is holding on for dear life. One thing I would like to mention is that he doesn't even make boost until 5k rpm. So if you like to race from light to light or cruise around and make power, instead of an all highway beast, I think the V8 is the better answer because of the power range. The 2JZ is a beast and if you want to roam around the highways, or have an RPM screamer, then I would say the JZ series if for you. FYI, just from what I've heard, 400+rwhp is about the limit on the stock trannies A340e/W58/R154, however there is no set number, and one transmission might go to 350, another might make it to 500, you never know until you try.
OP, again, "it's 6 in one, half a dozen in the other". It's the same thing. You can buy an LS2 that makes 400hp out of the box, or you can buy a GTE and go single turbo be around the same power. This is what i'm trying to get at though.. After you go single GTE, all of your options are limited. You can go broke and buy a V16_, You can have a built A34_ or A650e for a pricey sum, and you can guarantee it won't last forever, Or you could buy a R154/W58 a limit your horsepower to about 400~500rwhp. Whereas.... if you look over at the bowtie boys who seem to have fewer problems, even the Supra guys now are starting to run GM trannys. Turbo 400, 4L60, 700R4, T-56 or anything else that bolts up to a 350 Chevy. We could discuss this for days, but strictly speaking about the engine, and not budget, if you say that a 2JZ has more potential, or is cheaper to achieve 400rwhp, I think it's safe to say that an LS_ could EASILY achieve the same results, on a broader scale.
Do you work on cars yourself, like more than just the little stuff, do you feel comfortable building an engine? You can build your GE to be just as strong as the GTE. Now I am a little foggy and don't recall the specs of everything, but I know most NA-T people around here with GE blocks have GTE pistons. However most of these guys are putting around 600 to the wheels, but I can't verify it, as I'm not the owner, but I've met most of them. If any one in the Twin Cities has seen a red IS300 "YU LOST", he is dangerous with over 650 to the wheels. Again, something to consider, he is more of the extreme but has gone through a couple trannys, and currently is running a boost logic tranny that is holding on for dear life. One thing I would like to mention is that he doesn't even make boost until 5k rpm. So if you like to race from light to light or cruise around and make power, instead of an all highway beast, I think the V8 is the better answer because of the power range. The 2JZ is a beast and if you want to roam around the highways, or have an RPM screamer, then I would say the JZ series if for you. FYI, just from what I've heard, 400+rwhp is about the limit on the stock trannies A340e/W58/R154, however there is no set number, and one transmission might go to 350, another might make it to 500, you never know until you try.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 04-25-10 at 05:19 PM.
04-25-10, 07:55 PM
#20
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
If you are only looking for ~450whp why not just go Na-t? It would cost you a whole lot less than any swap you are considering. A GTE swap is gonna run way more than what you are thinking. The motor and tranny is $2500 but you will need a standalone and a whole lot of other parts to get this thing running and that's not including labor.
I myself was in the same delema that you'r ein now, but after weighing the cost for what I wanted to achieve, I decided to go Na-t instead. I too am aiming for ~450whp and should be right on target with what I got.
I myself was in the same delema that you'r ein now, but after weighing the cost for what I wanted to achieve, I decided to go Na-t instead. I too am aiming for ~450whp and should be right on target with what I got.
04-25-10, 08:16 PM
#22
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Long, $4,500 is a pretty decent price for an LS2 just because it's a newer and larger LS1, and overall it's a better motor.. You get what you pay for, and that's not bad. Why not just go all out and buy the LS7, 427 small block, just kidding, it's like $13.5k for a crate motor, but you start out with 500+ horsepower.
OP, again, "it's 6 in one, half a dozen in the other". It's the same thing. You can buy an LS2 that makes 400hp out of the box, or you can buy a GTE and go single turbo be around the same power. This is what i'm trying to get at though.. After you go single GTE, all of your options are limited. You can go broke and buy a V16_, You can have a built A34_ or A650e for a pricey sum, and you can guarantee it won't last forever, Or you could buy a R154/W58 a limit your horsepower to about 400~500rwhp. Whereas.... if you look over at the bowtie boys who seem to have fewer problems, even the Supra guys now are starting to run GM trannys. Turbo 400, 4L60, 700R4, T-56 or anything else that bolts up to a 350 Chevy. We could discuss this for days, but strictly speaking about the engine, and not budget, if you say that a 2JZ has more potential, or is cheaper to achieve 400rwhp, I think it's safe to say that an LS_ could EASILY achieve the same results, on a broader scale.
Do you work on cars yourself, like more than just the little stuff, do you feel comfortable building an engine? You can build your GE to be just as strong as the GTE. Now I am a little foggy and don't recall the specs of everything, but I know most NA-T people around here with GE blocks have GTE pistons. However most of these guys are putting around 600 to the wheels, but I can't verify it, as I'm not the owner, but I've met most of them. If any one in the Twin Cities has seen a red IS300 "YU LOST", he is dangerous with over 650 to the wheels. Again, something to consider, he is more of the extreme but has gone through a couple trannys, and currently is running a boost logic tranny that is holding on for dear life. One thing I would like to mention is that he doesn't even make boost until 5k rpm. So if you like to race from light to light or cruise around and make power, instead of an all highway beast, I think the V8 is the better answer because of the power range. The 2JZ is a beast and if you want to roam around the highways, or have an RPM screamer, then I would say the JZ series if for you. FYI, just from what I've heard, 400+rwhp is about the limit on the stock trannies A340e/W58/R154, however there is no set number, and one transmission might go to 350, another might make it to 500, you never know until you try.
OP, again, "it's 6 in one, half a dozen in the other". It's the same thing. You can buy an LS2 that makes 400hp out of the box, or you can buy a GTE and go single turbo be around the same power. This is what i'm trying to get at though.. After you go single GTE, all of your options are limited. You can go broke and buy a V16_, You can have a built A34_ or A650e for a pricey sum, and you can guarantee it won't last forever, Or you could buy a R154/W58 a limit your horsepower to about 400~500rwhp. Whereas.... if you look over at the bowtie boys who seem to have fewer problems, even the Supra guys now are starting to run GM trannys. Turbo 400, 4L60, 700R4, T-56 or anything else that bolts up to a 350 Chevy. We could discuss this for days, but strictly speaking about the engine, and not budget, if you say that a 2JZ has more potential, or is cheaper to achieve 400rwhp, I think it's safe to say that an LS_ could EASILY achieve the same results, on a broader scale.
Do you work on cars yourself, like more than just the little stuff, do you feel comfortable building an engine? You can build your GE to be just as strong as the GTE. Now I am a little foggy and don't recall the specs of everything, but I know most NA-T people around here with GE blocks have GTE pistons. However most of these guys are putting around 600 to the wheels, but I can't verify it, as I'm not the owner, but I've met most of them. If any one in the Twin Cities has seen a red IS300 "YU LOST", he is dangerous with over 650 to the wheels. Again, something to consider, he is more of the extreme but has gone through a couple trannys, and currently is running a boost logic tranny that is holding on for dear life. One thing I would like to mention is that he doesn't even make boost until 5k rpm. So if you like to race from light to light or cruise around and make power, instead of an all highway beast, I think the V8 is the better answer because of the power range. The 2JZ is a beast and if you want to roam around the highways, or have an RPM screamer, then I would say the JZ series if for you. FYI, just from what I've heard, 400+rwhp is about the limit on the stock trannies A340e/W58/R154, however there is no set number, and one transmission might go to 350, another might make it to 500, you never know until you try.
Thanks for your input. I'm starting to work more and more on my cars. I used to be afraid to touch anything on my GS. Now, I'm not afraid of tearing things apart. I would be doing the swap myself, mostly because I have the space, and a DD so the car can sit for long periods of time. BUT, I would like to build a GTE because I want to build a motor, and be able to drive the car in the mean time. I know the LSx has amazing potiental, especially NA, which is where the 2jz's make next to no extra power NA. I understand your saying that I can build a LSx to 420whp cheaper than a GTE, and not have to worry about building boost. I know if I go with a smaller frame turbo or with a BB (which I plan on getting) it will spool a little faster. Not saying it'll spool rediclously faster, but a few hundred RPM.
You see Supra guys running T-56's? Point me to a thread where someone did that, that could be something to look into.
I'm still trying to make a decision. It's a toss up for me right now. I know some people stand by the GTE and some stand by the LSx. I guess I'll have to price out the GTE fully. The only downside is if I go LSx I'd have a shop install it. Luckily I have time to think these swaps over lol.
04-25-10, 08:19 PM
#23
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
That's my issue, price. I'm just wondering what I'm looking at to have an LS dropped into my car and tuned. It's a matter of looking for the motor and shop who will do it..
04-26-10, 09:04 AM
#24
Instructor
Thanks for your input. I'm starting to work more and more on my cars. I used to be afraid to touch anything on my GS. Now, I'm not afraid of tearing things apart. I would be doing the swap myself, mostly because I have the space, and a DD so the car can sit for long periods of time. BUT, I would like to build a GTE because I want to build a motor, and be able to drive the car in the mean time. I know the LSx has amazing potiental, especially NA, which is where the 2jz's make next to no extra power NA. I understand your saying that I can build a LSx to 420whp cheaper than a GTE, and not have to worry about building boost. I know if I go with a smaller frame turbo or with a BB (which I plan on getting) it will spool a little faster. Not saying it'll spool rediclously faster, but a few hundred RPM.
You see Supra guys running T-56's? Point me to a thread where someone did that, that could be something to look into.
I'm still trying to make a decision. It's a toss up for me right now. I know some people stand by the GTE and some stand by the LSx. I guess I'll have to price out the GTE fully. The only downside is if I go LSx I'd have a shop install it. Luckily I have time to think these swaps over lol.
You see Supra guys running T-56's? Point me to a thread where someone did that, that could be something to look into.
I'm still trying to make a decision. It's a toss up for me right now. I know some people stand by the GTE and some stand by the LSx. I guess I'll have to price out the GTE fully. The only downside is if I go LSx I'd have a shop install it. Luckily I have time to think these swaps over lol.
http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1456
As far as the auto people, they have already put the TH350, TH400, and 4L80e behind the 2JZ, and the T56 is the same bellhousing. The one thing that I found is that many people say that for the price you can buy the T56, bellhousing, etc, you could purchase a V160. The only difference is that if you don't have a clutch pedal, master/slave cylinders, etc, it will add to the cost, as it would if you went LS_.
With that being said, I think you should buy a junked GE motor, start to rip it apart, and build it back up with your specifications. Which then you will need to buy the V16_, for an arm and a leg, or buy the R154 for around $400, and have it built with about another $500 in parts. I stand by both motors, and like I said, I would personally build a 2JZ/V16_, but that's because I drive V8s all the time, and have driven countless LS_ cars, but never a 2JZGTE, only a 2JZGE and 7MGTE, which are small potatoes. Anyways, I found a GE block for $75 a few months ago, probably should have pulled the trigger, but the last thing I need is another project. Hopefully some of this discussion helped more than it hurt. OP, if you haven't already start cruising supraforums.com and you will find out more than you ever wanted to know about the 2J.
04-26-10, 11:24 AM
#25
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
You do know that the GE and GTE rods are identical with the exception of the GTE block has oil squirters to cool the pistons down a little better, however most horsepower chasers remove these to control the oil flow, and get it to where it actually needs to be around 9k rpm. So you'd be fine with GE rods on GTE pistons, as that is what most NA-T people do around here, and they are over 600rwhp, I can promise you, one is running a boost logic A650e, and the other is running the R154.
A discussion of the T56 on a 2JZ..
http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1456
As far as the auto people, they have already put the TH350, TH400, and 4L80e behind the 2JZ, and the T56 is the same bellhousing. The one thing that I found is that many people say that for the price you can buy the T56, bellhousing, etc, you could purchase a V160. The only difference is that if you don't have a clutch pedal, master/slave cylinders, etc, it will add to the cost, as it would if you went LS_.
With that being said, I think you should buy a junked GE motor, start to rip it apart, and build it back up with your specifications. Which then you will need to buy the V16_, for an arm and a leg, or buy the R154 for around $400, and have it built with about another $500 in parts. I stand by both motors, and like I said, I would personally build a 2JZ/V16_, but that's because I drive V8s all the time, and have driven countless LS_ cars, but never a 2JZGTE, only a 2JZGE and 7MGTE, which are small potatoes. Anyways, I found a GE block for $75 a few months ago, probably should have pulled the trigger, but the last thing I need is another project. Hopefully some of this discussion helped more than it hurt. OP, if you haven't already start cruising supraforums.com and you will find out more than you ever wanted to know about the 2J.
A discussion of the T56 on a 2JZ..
http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1456
As far as the auto people, they have already put the TH350, TH400, and 4L80e behind the 2JZ, and the T56 is the same bellhousing. The one thing that I found is that many people say that for the price you can buy the T56, bellhousing, etc, you could purchase a V160. The only difference is that if you don't have a clutch pedal, master/slave cylinders, etc, it will add to the cost, as it would if you went LS_.
With that being said, I think you should buy a junked GE motor, start to rip it apart, and build it back up with your specifications. Which then you will need to buy the V16_, for an arm and a leg, or buy the R154 for around $400, and have it built with about another $500 in parts. I stand by both motors, and like I said, I would personally build a 2JZ/V16_, but that's because I drive V8s all the time, and have driven countless LS_ cars, but never a 2JZGTE, only a 2JZGE and 7MGTE, which are small potatoes. Anyways, I found a GE block for $75 a few months ago, probably should have pulled the trigger, but the last thing I need is another project. Hopefully some of this discussion helped more than it hurt. OP, if you haven't already start cruising supraforums.com and you will find out more than you ever wanted to know about the 2J.
The ge rods are what the problem is with the GE motor. They can only withstand 450-500whp before they snap. I wish I had GE motors around me. If i could pick up a bare block cheap then I would definitely go that route.
From what I read on the thread you sent me to, the V160 was a better choice than the T-56. I'm thinking that I may start looking for a junked GE. That's where I'm going to start.
04-26-10, 06:51 PM
#26
Instructor
The ge rods are what the problem is with the GE motor. They can only withstand 450-500whp before they snap. I wish I had GE motors around me. If i could pick up a bare block cheap then I would definitely go that route.
From what I read on the thread you sent me to, the V160 was a better choice than the T-56. I'm thinking that I may start looking for a junked GE. That's where I'm going to start.
From what I read on the thread you sent me to, the V160 was a better choice than the T-56. I'm thinking that I may start looking for a junked GE. That's where I'm going to start.
One thing to consider is that GE blocks will vary compression from a NA Supra to a GS, to an SC, to an IS, might all have different compression ratios, as well as the earlier blocks tend to have stronger rods, however the compression means little if you use the GTE pistons, because that will dictate the CR. Again, The GE and GTE connecting rods are identical, except your VVT-i rods, but any GE non-vvti will have beefier rods. The difference between the two blocks are the oil squirters, which can be put on your GE block, the GTE pistons are lower compression, and the exhaust ports vary from GTE to GE. Also, I will state this again, the NA-T guys around here are ALL running GE blocks, with the exception of using GTE pistons. Everything else is all factory GE, including the factory forged crank.
As far as the T56/V160, yeah, Like I mentioned, it appears that people don't think the T56 is a good idea to match up to the 2JZ, but like I said, it requires the same pattern as the other GM trannies. The one thing I am weirded out by is that they all claim that the T56 is super expensive, well I can find a bunch of them for under $2,000... which cannot be said about the V16_. Granted, I understand you need the adapter, maybe custom driveshaft, etc. But for the price of the V16_, I think it's not that bad of a deal, especially if the V8 produces a broader range of power, you would want longer gears. Anyways, hope I helped.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 04-26-10 at 07:07 PM.
04-30-10, 12:42 AM
#27
LSX engines have plumited in price over the last few years due to the sheer volume of them out there. If your on a budget or want to do this as cost effectively as possible, look for an LQ4 whiich is a 6.0 V8 out of 2500HD GMC,Chevy,Cadillac trucks/vans. They typically sell complete from intake to oilpan with ECU and wiring harness for $1000-1200, also the 4L80E 4 speed automatic transmission that comes standard in those trucks are extremely stout even in stock form. They are identical to LS1 motors found in 1998-02 camaros/transams and 97-04 vettes except they have a bigger bore(more TQ is always good thing) and they are iron blocks instead of aluminum(only an 80lb difference).
With just a 3600 conveter, boltons and a cam in my 1998 Camaro Z28 I ran an 11.5@117MPH in +3200 DA. With a 165RWHP shot of Nitrous I've ran 10.17@133MPH on a stock 1998 140,000 mile longblock. ( I've made over 120 passes over the last two years and it runs like a champ) These LSX motors love the juice as long as the tune is in check they live all day long at 550-600RWHP.
There rated about 340HP 350TQ stock (flywheel #s) and with a mild $1700 Head and cam package you make 420-460RWHP and 390 RWTQ quite easily. They are insanly easy to work on/get parts for/etc.
With just a 3600 conveter, boltons and a cam in my 1998 Camaro Z28 I ran an 11.5@117MPH in +3200 DA. With a 165RWHP shot of Nitrous I've ran 10.17@133MPH on a stock 1998 140,000 mile longblock. ( I've made over 120 passes over the last two years and it runs like a champ) These LSX motors love the juice as long as the tune is in check they live all day long at 550-600RWHP.
There rated about 340HP 350TQ stock (flywheel #s) and with a mild $1700 Head and cam package you make 420-460RWHP and 390 RWTQ quite easily. They are insanly easy to work on/get parts for/etc.
04-30-10, 08:27 AM
#28
Pole Position
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you only want 450 RWHP go the NA-T route simple,easy and cheap.
However, looking at your car which looks nice the GTE might be a better option if you are into the the show seen and when you want to sell it later down the road $. Trust me even if you drop a LS motor in your 4000 pound car (body kit, stereo equipment and big rims) your car is still going to be slow unless you boost that engine. Some might say add nitrous to the LS but you can do that to a GTE or NA-T so that is a mute point. I went Na-T because I wanted all my features in my car to work. Traction control, cruise control, no cell light which I accomplished. The car drove like stock until I got into boost, the only thing was the loud exhaust. If I wanted I could quite that down by going back to the stock exhaust and put in a electronic cut for when I need the exhaust to flow. For the record, I have a Nitrous SS and a supercharged SS under my belt.
Later, Jose
Later, Jose
04-30-10, 05:31 PM
#29
However, looking at your car which looks nice the GTE might be a better option if you are into the the show seen and when you want to sell it later down the road $. Trust me even if you drop a LS motor in your 4000 pound car (body kit, stereo equipment and big rims) your car is still going to be slow unless you boost that engine. Some might say add nitrous to the LS but you can do that to a GTE or NA-T so that is a mute point. I went Na-T because I wanted all my features in my car to work. Traction control, cruise control, no cell light which I accomplished. The car drove like stock until I got into boost, the only thing was the loud exhaust. If I wanted I could quite that down by going back to the stock exhaust and put in a electronic cut for when I need the exhaust to flow. For the record, I have a Nitrous SS and a supercharged SS under my belt.
Later, Jose
Later, Jose
04-30-10, 07:08 PM
#30
LSX engines have plumited in price over the last few years due to the sheer volume of them out there. If your on a budget or want to do this as cost effectively as possible, look for an LQ4 whiich is a 6.0 V8 out of 2500HD GMC,Chevy,Cadillac trucks/vans. They typically sell complete from intake to oilpan with ECU and wiring harness for $1000-1200, also the 4L80E 4 speed automatic transmission that comes standard in those trucks are extremely stout even in stock form. They are identical to LS1 motors found in 1998-02 camaros/transams and 97-04 vettes except they have a bigger bore(more TQ is always good thing) and they are iron blocks instead of aluminum(only an 80lb difference).
With just a 3600 conveter, boltons and a cam in my 1998 Camaro Z28 I ran an 11.5@117MPH in +3200 DA. With a 165RWHP shot of Nitrous I've ran 10.17@133MPH on a stock 1998 140,000 mile longblock. ( I've made over 120 passes over the last two years and it runs like a champ) These LSX motors love the juice as long as the tune is in check they live all day long at 550-600RWHP.
There rated about 340HP 350TQ stock (flywheel #s) and with a mild $1700 Head and cam package you make 420-460RWHP and 390 RWTQ quite easily. They are insanly easy to work on/get parts for/etc.
With just a 3600 conveter, boltons and a cam in my 1998 Camaro Z28 I ran an 11.5@117MPH in +3200 DA. With a 165RWHP shot of Nitrous I've ran 10.17@133MPH on a stock 1998 140,000 mile longblock. ( I've made over 120 passes over the last two years and it runs like a champ) These LSX motors love the juice as long as the tune is in check they live all day long at 550-600RWHP.
There rated about 340HP 350TQ stock (flywheel #s) and with a mild $1700 Head and cam package you make 420-460RWHP and 390 RWTQ quite easily. They are insanly easy to work on/get parts for/etc.