iragii alternator
05-14-10, 02:34 PM
#1
iragii alternator
so im planning on getting an alt by the end of this weekend.
iragii is 99.9% the choice right now
i just cant decide between the DOMINATOR or the AMPUTATOR.
im running a little under 2000 watts (at max) of aftermartket power.
so i dont know if i really need the amputator or if i can go with the less expensive one (dominator) and still be good.
some advice please? mr.jokster adviced on another thread that we should all just get the amputator while were at it, sounds like reasonable suggestion, but idk if my load really requires that much power from an alt.
iragii is 99.9% the choice right now
i just cant decide between the DOMINATOR or the AMPUTATOR.
im running a little under 2000 watts (at max) of aftermartket power.
so i dont know if i really need the amputator or if i can go with the less expensive one (dominator) and still be good.
some advice please? mr.jokster adviced on another thread that we should all just get the amputator while were at it, sounds like reasonable suggestion, but idk if my load really requires that much power from an alt.
05-14-10, 02:39 PM
#2
heres a link to another website, this guy is supposed to be real cool and ive read in other forums that he makes good alternators:
http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
this is what he told me about an alt for our gs's when i emailed him about making one for gs.
"The 200 amp would give you about 135 amps at idle and full power by 1200 rpms. ... Forgot to mention too that the alternator will come with a billet aluminum overdrive pulley for great power at idle. Let me know if I can help. Thank you,
Nate "
i dont know much about alts and iraggi doesnt really have any specs on the ebay listings. but which one would be better?
http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
this is what he told me about an alt for our gs's when i emailed him about making one for gs.
"The 200 amp would give you about 135 amps at idle and full power by 1200 rpms. ... Forgot to mention too that the alternator will come with a billet aluminum overdrive pulley for great power at idle. Let me know if I can help. Thank you,
Nate "
i dont know much about alts and iraggi doesnt really have any specs on the ebay listings. but which one would be better?
05-14-10, 03:45 PM
#3
In short, it doesnt matter what "max" wattage is on the amp, those are fake numbers and if not a real name brand or CEA certified definitely not real numbers... all you go to do is count the fuses on the amp and add that to your factory alternator (which I believe is 100amps) and theres the size alt you need. If your amp has 4 40amp fuses, thats 160amps of draw, so you would need a 260amp or better alternator to keep you up. If you decide to go with Iraggi, you must go with the amputator because of its idle factor. I just read this write up by DC POWER and in short it tells you what "idle" means in the idle factor of an alternator. You dont drive your car at 4000rpm all the time, so an alternator that says it does 300amps is only gonna give you 300amps at that high rpm. You want an alternator that has high idle amperage (like the amputator) so it can deliver ample power (no pun intended) while youre stopped at red lights and are just cruisin 
also, the amputator is built a bit stronger to handle the higher amperage at low rpms... Check out This link from DC Power, it gives some good info on how an alternator works. I've personally decided to go with DC Power for a number of reasons, the main reason is that I heard and hear from those with experience that they highly underrate their alternators. meaning that a 200amp DC Power amp will put out closer to 300amps. The price on a 220 by DC actually works out to be a bit cheaper than Iraggi too I was just quoted $425 for a 220amp through DC Power (or $445 dont remember)
also, the amputator is built a bit stronger to handle the higher amperage at low rpms... Check out This link from DC Power, it gives some good info on how an alternator works. I've personally decided to go with DC Power for a number of reasons, the main reason is that I heard and hear from those with experience that they highly underrate their alternators. meaning that a 200amp DC Power amp will put out closer to 300amps. The price on a 220 by DC actually works out to be a bit cheaper than Iraggi too I was just quoted $425 for a 220amp through DC Power (or $445 dont remember)
cant give full power at 1200rpms if the car goes up to ~5k rpm, what stops the alternator from meltdown after 1200rpms?
05-14-10, 03:52 PM
#5
in addition to what I wrote above about how to calculate how much amps you have of draw, I recommend cranking up as loud as you can and putting a meter to the power leads to see how much draw youre actually getting, unless of course your amps are of quality. Its easy to put 200amps of fuses on an amp and only really have 30 amps of draw
05-14-10, 09:17 PM
#7
robertoyou, I got some new info today, apparently there was some miss communication in regards to the alt size available (if you have the GS300) They are available up to 360. I went in to order mine today... then came home to find an email from DC Power with that new info... ok thats all 
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05-15-10, 12:26 AM
#8
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As for what to expect for the alternator, the general rule is that the alternator has about 40% of it's capacity available, meaning you should have 40 amps available to the amp. That should be good for about 500 watts of continuous power. Depending on how often you listen to the music cranked up, you could even do 750 on a stock alternator from time to time. If the lights dim on occasion, but not regularly, you can alleviate that with a capacitor but it's ONLY going to be effective when the nominal draw is below the alternator's capacity. Translation - if the alt is keeping up except when the bass drops bottom once in a while, you may be okay with a cap. If not, time to upgrade the alternator.
By the way, I know there has been a lot of talk about upgrading alternators and buying these huge units that will give you far more power. I would strongly suggest looking into a local alternator repair facility. I know there is one in my area that rebuilds them, and they even installed one for me in the old car. If you can locate one in your area, talk with them about possibly upgrading your factory unit. You may very well be able to get a good upgrade for far less and not have to wait for a shipment.
Big Mack
when I do.
05-15-10, 12:11 PM
#11
In short, it doesnt matter what "max" wattage is on the amp, those are fake numbers and if not a real name brand or CEA certified definitely not real numbers... all you go to do is count the fuses on the amp and add that to your factory alternator (which I believe is 100amps) and theres the size alt you need. If your amp has 4 40amp fuses, thats 160amps of draw, so you would need a 260amp or better alternator to keep you up. If you decide to go with Iraggi, you must go with the amputator because of its idle factor. I just read this write up by DC POWER and in short it tells you what "idle" means in the idle factor of an alternator. You dont drive your car at 4000rpm all the time, so an alternator that says it does 300amps is only gonna give you 300amps at that high rpm. You want an alternator that has high idle amperage (like the amputator) so it can deliver ample power (no pun intended) while youre stopped at red lights and are just cruisin also, the amputator is built a bit stronger to handle the higher amperage at low rpms... Check out This link from DC Power, it gives some good info on how an alternator works. I've personally decided to go with DC Power for a number of reasons, the main reason is that I heard and hear from those with experience that they highly underrate their alternators. meaning that a 200amp DC Power amp will put out closer to 300amps. The price on a 220 by DC actually works out to be a bit cheaper than Iraggi too I was just quoted $425 for a 220amp through DC Power (or $445 dont remember)
also, the amputator is built a bit stronger to handle the higher amperage at low rpms... Check out This link from DC Power, it gives some good info on how an alternator works. I've personally decided to go with DC Power for a number of reasons, the main reason is that I heard and hear from those with experience that they highly underrate their alternators. meaning that a 200amp DC Power amp will put out closer to 300amps. The price on a 220 by DC actually works out to be a bit cheaper than Iraggi too I was just quoted $425 for a 220amp through DC Power (or $445 dont remember)dc power definitely sounds like they know their ****! lol. they have a lot of good info and it sounds like their alts would be good also. ive also heard a lot of people running dc, and actually from the beginning when i looked into alts, they sounded like a good company to buy from. but i was pretty let down when i searched their site and found nothing for our gs's. so how do i go about ordering one from them? (i dont know anyone with a shop who can get one for me)
In short, it doesnt matter what "max" wattage is on the amp, those are fake numbers and if not a real name brand or CEA certified definitely not real numbers...
lol when i mentioned "max" in my original post, i wasnt referring to the numbers my amps put out at max or what the boxes say. lol i meant thats the most im drawing at max in TOTAL when cranking it up high. my amps are drawing 1200 rms and 240rms so i rounded to 2000 watts(i think thats what i originally said). i dont mean it in a rude way, just claifying so that i dont sound like a total rookie.
so price is similar to iraggi. maybe one of you guys want to contact him and find out more about his alternators (since you guys know more of the technical stuff, it will make more sense to you)
cant find the email from Dom about that, but I believe the amputator is made a bit more 'heavy duty' to handle the load that its gonna give. Now in regards to how big of an alt to get (read above) and also remember, if you can afford to pony up for what you need, something is always better than nothing.
in addition to what I wrote above about how to calculate how much amps you have of draw, I recommend cranking up as loud as you can and putting a meter to the power leads to see how much draw youre actually getting, unless of course your amps are of quality. Its easy to put 200amps of fuses on an amp and only really have 30 amps of draw
in addition to what I wrote above about how to calculate how much amps you have of draw, I recommend cranking up as loud as you can and putting a meter to the power leads to see how much draw youre actually getting, unless of course your amps are of quality. Its easy to put 200amps of fuses on an amp and only really have 30 amps of draw
price? and total amps it puts out?
damn im pretty much sold on dc now. lol
if its within my budget then il definitely go for it.
robertoyou, I got some new info today, apparently there was some miss communication in regards to the alt size available (if you have the GS300) They are available up to 360. I went in to order mine today... then came home to find an email from DC Power with that new info... ok thats all
360 amps is quite a good load of amps. or for a daily driver anyways. wonder how much that bad boy is! probably quite a bit. 360 might be too much for me, however i wouldnt mind having the extra power just in case and for reasurance. did you happen to get the 360 amp output?! that would be awesome.
True, except for the CEA part. Just because it is CEA certified doesn't mean it's 100% accurate. It's a step in the right direction, but there are still ways to 'fudge' the numbers.
Not exactly. 160 amps is what the fuses are designed to pass on a regular basis, but this is only when the amp is hitting the maximum power. It also depends on the type of fuse. ATC fuses will pass 125% of current for a bit before they blow. In most amps, I'd venture to say that you're drawing about half the fuse rating for the RMS power.
As for what to expect for the alternator, the general rule is that the alternator has about 40% of it's capacity available, meaning you should have 40 amps available to the amp. That should be good for about 500 watts of continuous power. Depending on how often you listen to the music cranked up, you could even do 750 on a stock alternator from time to time. If the lights dim on occasion, but not regularly, you can alleviate that with a capacitor but it's ONLY going to be effective when the nominal draw is below the alternator's capacity. Translation - if the alt is keeping up except when the bass drops bottom once in a while, you may be okay with a cap. If not, time to upgrade the alternator.
By the way, I know there has been a lot of talk about upgrading alternators and buying these huge units that will give you far more power. I would strongly suggest looking into a local alternator repair facility. I know there is one in my area that rebuilds them, and they even installed one for me in the old car. If you can locate one in your area, talk with them about possibly upgrading your factory unit. You may very well be able to get a good upgrade for far less and not have to wait for a shipment.
Big Mack
Not exactly. 160 amps is what the fuses are designed to pass on a regular basis, but this is only when the amp is hitting the maximum power. It also depends on the type of fuse. ATC fuses will pass 125% of current for a bit before they blow. In most amps, I'd venture to say that you're drawing about half the fuse rating for the RMS power.
As for what to expect for the alternator, the general rule is that the alternator has about 40% of it's capacity available, meaning you should have 40 amps available to the amp. That should be good for about 500 watts of continuous power. Depending on how often you listen to the music cranked up, you could even do 750 on a stock alternator from time to time. If the lights dim on occasion, but not regularly, you can alleviate that with a capacitor but it's ONLY going to be effective when the nominal draw is below the alternator's capacity. Translation - if the alt is keeping up except when the bass drops bottom once in a while, you may be okay with a cap. If not, time to upgrade the alternator.
By the way, I know there has been a lot of talk about upgrading alternators and buying these huge units that will give you far more power. I would strongly suggest looking into a local alternator repair facility. I know there is one in my area that rebuilds them, and they even installed one for me in the old car. If you can locate one in your area, talk with them about possibly upgrading your factory unit. You may very well be able to get a good upgrade for far less and not have to wait for a shipment.
Big Mack
your info on the capacitors also helped, so hopefully after i get a new alt, my capacitor will actually have some use to it lol
and what you said about the rewinding alts, i would try it, but i personally dont knw anyone who does it. i could look into it, because it probably would be a lot less expensive, but i guess like the link mr jokster gave me from dc, which it says that sometimes you wont know what your really getting if you just get your factory rewounded.
05-15-10, 01:55 PM
#13
Not exactly. 160 amps is what the fuses are designed to pass on a regular basis, but this is only when the amp is hitting the maximum power. It also depends on the type of fuse. ATC fuses will pass 125% of current for a bit before they blow. In most amps, I'd venture to say that you're drawing about half the fuse rating for the RMS power.
Big Mack
Big Mack
I'm just usually in a hurry when writing and type before thinking... yea, thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it
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