markzystra

I am on my back staring up at the evap charcoal cannister and all other parts connected to it, wondering how in the hell anyone is able to get at that things without removing the rear axle/drive train. I don't see how you can even get a hand up in there to turn a wrench.

Anyone ever have to remove any of these parts and have any idea how to get at them??

Thanks.

FrankT

I understand that the axle needs to be dropped to remove the charcoal canister assembly.
I need to do this on the wife's GS soon.

markzystra

Yeah Frank -

I have that same parts breakout diagram and when I looked at it I got the creeps about what needed to come out to get it done. You gonna do it yourself? Seems like it's all about proper jacking and support. Still, it's a job.

Regards

FrankT

Most definately I will do this myself.

New charcoal canister assembly is about $240 but before I buy it I am checking the VSV function and condition of hoses at the charcoal canister assembly. To do this I will not need to drop the axle but I will need to unbolt the charcoal canister assembly and do some test as per FSM. I suspect a stuck open pressure sensor VSV.

I have already check the easy stuff under the hood.

Proper jacking at least 2 feet off the ground is what I have in mind.

gserep1

Hi,
I am interested in seeing the test procedures that need to be done, and how the book says the charcoal canster has to be removed. Is there some place on the web that shows the steps needed to change this canister?

My canister cost over $600.00, and I tried to install it. I'll go back and try again.

Thanks again.

FrankT

This is from the FSM, these are the steps in testing the charcoal canister.

All I will do is verify that the VSV for the vapor pressure sensor is functioning properly along with a good look at the hoses. I have already tested the easy to get to EVAP VSV under the hood. If I can't figure it out in about an hour, I will just buy a new assembly.

I am defiantly not looking forward to this repair, laying on my back working on the car in tight spaces, dirt falling in your face, sucks but if you are patient and take your time it is not awful.

INSPECTION
1. INSPECT LINES AND CONNECTORS
Visually check for loose connections, sharp bends or damage.
2. INSPECT FUEL TANK FILLER PIPE
Visually check for deformation, cracks or fuel leakage.
3. VISUALLY INSPECT FUEL TANK CAP
Check if the cap and/or gasket are deformed or damaged.
If necessary, repair or replace the cap.
4. INSPECT EVAP SYSTEM LINE
(a) Warm up the engine and stop the engine.
Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature.
(b) Install a vacuum gauge (EVAP control system test equipment
vacuum gauge) to the EVAP service port on the
purge line.
(c) LEXUS Hand–Held Tester:
Forced driving of the VSV for the EVAP.
(1) Connect a LEXUS hand–held tester to the DLC3.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Push the LEXUS hand–held tester main switch ON.
(4) Use the ACTIVE TEST mode on the LEXUS hand–
held tester to operate the VSV for the EVAP.
(d) If you have no LEXUS Hand–Held Tester:
Forced driving of the VSV for the EVAP.
(1) Disconnect the VSV connector for the EVAP.
(2) Connect the positive (+) and negative (–) leads from
the battery to the VSV terminals for the EVAP.
(3) Start the engine.

(e) Check the vacuum at idle.
Vacuum:
Maintain at 0.368 – 19.713 in.Hg (5 – 268 in.Aq) for over
5 seconds
HINT:
If the vacuum does not change, you can conclude that the hose
connecting the VSV to the service port has come loose or is
blocked, or the VSV is malfunctioning.
(f) LEXUS Hand–Held Tester:
Conclude forced driving of the VSV for the EVAP.
(1) Stop the engine.
(2) Disconnect the LEXUS hand–held tester from the
DLC3.
(g) If you have no LEXUS Hand–Held Tester:
Conclude forced driving of the VSV for the EVAP.
(1) Stop the engine.
(2) Disconnect the positive (+) and negative (–) leads
from the battery from the VSV terminals for the
EVAP.
(3) Connect the VSV connector for the EVAP.
(h) Disconnect the vacuum gauge from the EVAP service
port on the purge line.
(i) Connect a pressure gauge to the EVAP service port on
the purge line.
(j) Check the pressure.
(1) Close off the air drain hose at the marked position
of the canister with a hose clipper or similar instrument.
(2) Add the pressure (13.5 – 15.5 in.Aq) from the EVAP
service port.
Pressure:
2 minutes after the pressure is added, the gauge
should be over 7.7 – 8.8 in.Aq.
HINT:
If you can’t add pressure, you can conclude that the hose connecting
the VSV
canister
fuel tank has slipped off or the
VSV is open.
(3) Check if the pressure decreases when the fuel tank
cap is removed while adding pressure.
HINT:
If the pressure does not decrease when the filler cap is removed,
then you can conclude that the hose connecting the
service port to the fuel tank is blocked, etc.
(k) Disconnect the pressure gauge from the EVAP service
port on the purge line.
5. CHECK AIRTIGHTNESS IN FUEL TANK AND FILLER
PIPE
(a) Disconnect the EVAP line hose from the charcoal canister
side and then pressurize and make the internal pressure
in the fuel tank 4 kPa (41 gf/cm2, 0.58 psi).
(b) Check that the internal pressure of the fuel tank can be
hold for 1 minute.
(c) Check the connected portions of each hose and pipe.
(d) Check the installed parts on the fuel tank.
If there is no abnormality, replace the fuel tank and filler pipe.
(e) Reconnect the EVAP line hose to the charcoal canister.
6. INSPECT FUEL CUTOFF VALVE AND FILL CHECK
VALVE
(a) Disconnect the purge line hose and EVAP line hose from
the charcoal canister.
(b) Disconnect the air drain hose from the canister tank, and
plug its.
(c) Pressurize 4 kPa (41 gf/cm2, 0.58 psi) to the purge port
and check that there is ventilation through the EVAP line
hose.
HINT:
In the condition that the fuel fuel is full, as the float value of the
fill check valve is closed and has no ventilation, it is necessary
to check the fuel amount (volume).
(d) Check if there is any struck in the vent line hose and EVAP
line hose.
If there is no stuck in hoses, replace the fuel cutoff valve and fill
check valve.
(e) Reconnect the purge line hose and EVAP line hose to the
charcoal canister.
(f) Reconnect the air drain hose to the canister tank.
7. CHECK AIR INLET LINE
(a) Disconnect the air inlet line hose from the charcoal canister.
(b) Check that there is ventilation in the air inlet line.
(c) Reconnect the air inlet line hose to the charcoal canister.
8. REMOVE CHARCOAL CANISTER ASSEMBLY
(a) Disconnect the RH rear drive shaft from the differential.
(See page SA–52)
(b) Remove the charcoal canister assembly.
(1) Disconnect the vapor pressure sensor connector.
(2) Disconnect the VSV connector for vapor pressure
sensor.
(3) Disconnect the purge line hose, EVAP line hose
and air inlet line from the charcoal canister.
(4) Disconnect the vent line hose from the charcoal
canister.
Push the connector deep inside, pinch portion A,
and pull out the connector.
(5) Disconnect the air drain hose from the chanister
tank.
(6) Remove the 3 nuts and the charcoal canister assembly.
9. INSPECT CHARCOAL CANISTER
(a) Visually check the charcoal canister for cracks or damage.
(b) Inspect the charcoal canister operation.
(1) Plug the vent port with a cap.
(2) While holding the purge port closed, blow air (1.76
kPa, 18 gf/cm2, 0.26 psi) into the EVAP port and
check that air flows from the air drain port.

FrankT

Update...

I unbolted the canister assembly so I could access it around the differential and axles
It was a major drag trying to test the vsv and even the hoses were a big pain to get to.
My hands were not able to function very well in that tight space. It was very hard to remove hoses and connectors, and after an hour of testing and pulling most all hoses, I button it back up.

My conclusion is that the canister is saturated with gas.

My wife tells me, the CEL came on again. I will check the code when she gets home.

Looks like I'll be ordering a new assembly.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

I just did mine this past weekend, took 1 hour tops.

Most likely all of you have a faulty VSV at the canister, since its exposed to the elements, including heat and cold cycles.

No need to drop the diff or remove axles.

FrankT

How did you remove the the charcoal canister?
I was going to do that to test it on the bench, but I could not get it to fit between the axle. Did I give up too soon?

I have a new charcoal canister on the way and I was planning on dropping the passenger side axle for access in and out.

Please let me know how you got it out...

FrankT

Update...

The new charcoal canister came in, I had some time yesterday to do a remove and replace.

Here is how I did it without messing with the rear hub and rear control arms, please refer to the diagram below.
I did not take pics, it was very dirty under there and dirt was landing on my face.
Once I had the car jacked up I was done in 90 minutes...

• Jack up and properly support the passenger side rear of the car.
• Remove passenger side rear wheel.
• Remove the rear suspension brace, both sides.
• Removed the 3 nuts that hold the canister and disconnecting 3 hoses and the 2 connectors.
• Remove the charcoal canister mounting bracket, 2 bolts on the right side of the assembly.
• Remove the 6 10mm allen head bolts that hold the RH rear drive shaft to the differential. Mark the alignment of the axle to the differential.
• Carefully push the axle outward and drop it down to the side.
• Remove the rubber band type hangers that supports the exhaust pipes. this will give you enough room to move the drive shaft a few more inches out of the way.
• Remove the charcoal canister assembly. It might take you a few minutes to fit it through the opening.
• Replacing the new assembly is reverse of removal, including removing the mounting bracket on the right side of the assembly.
• Torque the drive shaft bolts to 61 ft/lbs in a cross pattern