well the system is completely connected and operates, although I'm disappointed with the initial temperature differences. I'm only seeing about a 25-28 degree drop, but I really think it has to do with the tubing diameter and not the entire idea. The cooling lines arent even frosting over as I saw in my test cases . Once I remedy that, THEN we will have some temperature drops, I believe.

I think I'll have to redesign it for a larger diameter tubing on the evaporator side. I just dont think it's expanding as it should. This of course will take some time...and MORE money. I might as well redesign the intake tube for a straighter flow like I've been wanting to do as well.

As it stands, i'll have to wait until next month for the additional parts, cause I am tapped out as far as cash goes. If one of the mods would be so kind as to change the thread title to something like, "06isDriver intake build" or something along those lines (if its ok with Kurtz), I can use this as a build thread. Or, I'll create a new one and copy this info in, whatever.

The good news is that there is light at the end of this tunnel and its somewhat promising. I am more committed than ever to seeing this through to a final product. Lord knows our cars need more aftermarket support and I intend to oblige... Thanks for all the interest, and you guys will be the first folks that know any news.

For those of you wondering, I am aiming for 15-20 whp out of this system. I dont think I'll release a product that doesnt do that or better. Is it worth it? I think so, and i think alot of other people will too. Otherwise we wouldnt have people dropping 1000$ on headers and high flow cats for similar gains right?

Thanks for your patience. questions and comments are welcome!!

 

Fine w/me to change the thread title... as to what gains are worth it, really it'll depend on cost...

at $200-300 you'd sell as many as you could make only gaining 8-10 whp... at $800-1000 you'd need to be making a bit more to get many takers.

 

Few questions?
1) What Refrigerant?
2) What type of metering device?
[ 25-28 degree drop or (delta) is good. ]
3) Whats your subcooling?
4) Superheat?
5) Whats your target evap temp?

.
.
. I have a ton more but these will work 4 now.

 

pictures would be nice

 

1. r134
2. im using a hacked up 5000btu system I had laying around. The metering device is just a coil of very small diameter tubing. I am fully aware that it is not the best setup. I wanted to get it up and working.
3.I evacuated the system yesterday so I cant tell you.
4.^---ditto
5. 40-45 degrees?

Im no refrigeration expert or anywhere close. I'm having to learn everything as I go along. To be truthful, I had to lookup what superheat and subcooling is and how to measure it.

You sound like you know what you're talking about in A/C land, so if you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.

 

Give the man a break... He's trying... If i were him I would keep this stuff to myself and have a faster IS then all you suckers.

 

^-----thanks for the kind words

 

We'll I don't think 134a is going to be the correct refrigerant for the app.
404A would be better but you'll have to add an oz. of POE oil.
I'm assuming your base CFM across your evap coil is @ 400, so this is about 4 times the amount of air/CFM then your 5000btu system is capable of cooling. I'd also be careful when it comes to condensation inside the pipe.

i really need the airflow data for the ISX50 to help.

 

why would 404a be better?

ALso, I was concerned about condensation inside the pipe and setup a small pen cam to monitor while the test system was running. I never saw condensation on the inside....only on the outside.

I understand that the 5000 btu's arent enough to cool the air, but it seems (and this is based on observation) that just stopping the heat soak is enough to significantly alter the air temps that finally get to the motor. If I'm able to cool the air below outside ambient temps its gravy on the top. Of course, it does cool the air somewhat.

My initial goal was to stop the heat soak. Just doing that will net you anywhere from 25-30 degrees cooler air. If im only able to actually cool the air another 10-15 degrees, I'll have a potentially 45 degree difference than when I started.

I'll take a 45 degree advantage any day. Obviously though, I need my system to perform as efficiently as possible to make it all worth it. So please, tell me more.

 

40 degree difference would be ridiculous how much difference it would make. Just think about how slow the car feels at 90 degree weather comapred to 50 degree weather. Its a good 5% difference in HP.

 

I am voting this thread/idea to be the coolest of 2010. No pun intended….

 

I've seen this system before. You could likely use the parts (mainly the bulb) and use 404A instead of C02.

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...yo2-air-intake

 

and thats who holds the very broad patent.

 

Ford developed such a system (but using A/C) for use on the Lighting. They showed the concept. Maybe do a search and see if you can come up with anything.

 

Thank you for the advice. I am well aware of the ford patent.