TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

You guys that are having problems with thwir headers leaking did you retorque them? Everbody i talked to about headers say you gotta get them retorqued a few weeks after install since they get loose.

GSteg did you figure out what the CEL was for?

spdrcr771

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for the info. I hope that will fix my prob.

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

Any updates guys?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I got the P0430 code which says my passenger side catalytic converter is deficient. I know it wasn't my cat because it was perfectly fine before the header swap. I pulled out the cat and it looked fine to me with nothing loose or clogged. First thing that came to mind was exhaust leak between the header and the cat. I pulled off the cat and replaced the gasket with new ones and so far it seems to be okay. No light but I gotta go back to my friend's shop to check the O2 sensor reading.

When torquing down the three bolts/nut on the header, torque them in sequence otherwise the gasket will not get crushed evenly. I had this problem in which one side was torqued more than the other so it exposed a gap large enough to leak. This is why I wished the flange was designed more like the OEM so the gasket would be recessed a bit. As of right now with the gasket in, there is a small (1/8" ?) gap.

I won't know for sure until I get the car scanned.

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

So basically when you're installing the headers back go in an alternating pattern like the lug nuts on a wheel? That makes sense. I'm guna start the install of everything after class tommorow, and i plan to use alot of copper gasket sealant. Did you use any of that stuff? How's the performance increases on the car?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I didn't use it because I didn't have any on hand. I'm crossing my fingers that they're not leaking anymore. If they end up leaking, I'm going to pull off the set in March and return back to stock.

I got some low end back, although I still think it's a tad bit less than stock. However from 2.5k and above, there is a definite increase in power. It pulls more effortlessly and makes the car feel lighter on its feet. I've only done one or two WOT run through a single gear so I can't tell you if I'm much faster than before. I like the fact that I can cruise at 60mph in 5th gear and with a bit of gas the car jumps to 80-85 quicker than before.

jlee804

iTrader: (1)

Dude, I got your headers and you got mine!!!!! I was wondering who received the mix up. Now I am waiting again.. lol

sung35

Where do I get the copper gasket sealant? At local auto part store? Do I just spread it evenly over the gasket?

Thanks

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Ah no wonder . Is PPE sending you a new one or are they waiting on me to send it in so they can send it to you?

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all the help GSteg. I just have a few more quick questions before i start this install tommorow.

I am replacing the motor mounts while i'm doing this install, should i loosen both sides of the motor mounts when lifting the motor? Let's say i'm starting on the driver side. I loosen the mounts, lift the motor, then replace with new mount and install the headers. Do i torque that down then do the same process to the other side then torque when both headers are installed?

Also, i am doing an oil change as well, would it be okay/make it easier if the oil filter was out during the install? Would this be okay to do?

One more thing, How do you get the oil dipstick out? Will oil spill out after you take it out?

Thanks again man, i REALLY appreciate the help!

LEXO951

Sorry, this question is not meant to offend you TL, but are being serious about the oil change/dipstick questions?

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

Yes i am. I honestly haven't looked at it closely then, must be pretty self explanatory. I just want to make sure, i'm really **** with everything that has to do with my car. And i LOVE to make myself look stupid.

LEXO951

Hahaaa...

I am replacing the motor mounts while i'm doing this install, should i loosen both sides of the motor mounts when lifting the motor? Let's say i'm starting on the driver side. I loosen the mounts, lift the motor, then replace with new mount and install the headers. Do i torque that down then do the same process to the other side then torque when both headers are installed?

This is by no means a BIBLE for doing this just what i did!!!

Well, I actually pulled whole engine out. I started out by lubricating exhaust manifold and catalytic nuts and bolts night before so that would be easier to remove. Next I raised front end of car and set safely on jack stands so I could remove cat nuts..lol first. Once those were removed I used a metal coat hanger to support rest of exhaust so that o2 sensors would not get yanked on. I then loosten both motor mounts from top (engine bay) lift engine but be carefull from where you lift from as to not damage anything. Remember when lifting motor to be carefull with clearence between engine/tranny and firewall. You dont want to lift up to much, just enough to clear mount bolt. Now if you get back under car you will see 2 plastic oval shaped covers on each of side of crossmember hiding lower mount bolts. Use flat head screw driver to remove, then viola remove bolts and mount comes off. From this point you can remove exhaust manifolds and install headers. Make sure you torque them down evenly. example, all at 10ft lb then all 15fr lb etc...Bolt supplied is kind of a guess though. Hopefully this helps, remember i pulled out engine so it may be a lil different.

Also, i am doing an oil change as well, would it be okay/make it easier if the oil filter was out during the install? Would this be okay to do?

I would wait to change oil until done installing mounts/headers cause you may be excited that you finished that you may forget to fill engine with oil.

One more thing, How do you get the oil dipstick out? Will oil spill out after you take it out?

You just pull out dipstick, no oil will come out. Oil filler cap can also be removed in order to drain oil faster due to vacuum break. Now the oil filter and oil pan drain plug on the other hand will definetly spill out all your oil so have your oil catch container ready. You may also consider installing a new drain plug gasket with a magnetic oil drain plug to catch future unwanted metal debris.

Thanks again man, i REALLY appreciate the help!

Sorry i may have missed things but you can PM me at anytime if you have questions I can possibly help with. Not a master mechanic but always do my own repairs and mods.

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for taking the time to post all that! I have moderate DIYing skills, i can change oil, suspension parts and the basic stuff but haven't ever done anything this drastic which is why i asked soo many questions.

So you pulled out the whole motor and tranny entirely out of the car? Isn't that a little drastic? I've been reading that you can just jack up the engine a few inches from the oil pan using a big block of wood. I changed the tranny mount today and used the same method flawlessy.

So plan for install.
1. Remove all parts in the way, AC compressor, bottom engine cover, etc.
2. Take off cat's and o2 sensors
3. Unbolt steering rack and let it hang
4. Undo four bolts holding engine mount to engine and bottom mounts holding it to the subframe?
5. Jack engine up an inch or more
6. Undo all 16 14mm bolts holder manifolds in place
7. Remove manifolds, re install new one using reverse process
8. Reinstall everything, oil change then enjoy!

So generally, this seems about right? Of course there's guna be other steps there as well but can a 3,000 pounds harbor freight floor jack hold up the weight of the engine the whole time i'm taking out the manifolds.

LEXO951

Yes, 3000lb jack will do just fine.