The jack will hold the engine up. The engine is only couple hundreds of pounds. Make sure you put some sort of wood or anything between the jack and the oil pan to distribute the load. Loosen or remove the transmission mount nuts before you lift the engine otherwise you're just going to stretch the rubber mount.


For the oil dipstick, I'm sure you must be talking about the tube itself, not the stick. The tube is held onto the block by a single 12mm bolt. Remove that and you can pull the dipstick tube out of the car. Not a lot of room but it's doable. I plugged up the hole with paper towel to prevent debris from entering.

Torquing the nut is a guess. I just did hand tight because there is no way to put a torque wrench in there. You can use adapters and u-joints, but you lose torque by the time it gets to the nut so really it's not really accurate. Hand tight is fine, but don't go gorilla ape chit on it.

 

Are you talking about torquing the bolts for the actual header? How tight did you tighten these?

 

Waiting your return and then recoat and resend. maybe i will tell them to send me a new pair. or maybe i could get another discount since the headers are used now... hahaha

 

I'm going to send them out tomorrow. Honestly I would ask for a discount because the coating didn't take much of a beating. There are a few parts here and there that got scratched up, but they're going to end up being there anyways when you install them so I would definitely try asking for discount instead. It's probably cheaper/faster for them to give you a discount rather than recoating the headers. Plus it would have been better if PPE sent a shipping label with your address as the return address rather than the shop.

 

Good information and the jack is strong enough but a slight correction is the engine is 500+ pounds without the transmission, combined roughly 700+ pounds. Be careful when trusting just a jack to protect you and your engine. Find a wood block that fits between the jack base and the jack lifting arm to act as a safety should the seals on the jack fail. This also goes for using just a jack for lifting a car... use JACK STANDS or some other positive stop method just in case. People are killed every year from cars falling on them. Be careful, check your jacking points, check for stability.

 

This makes me feel real good about putting my car up in the air and working under it. haha. I am very careful when it comes to putting my car up on jack stands. I have four 3 ton jack stands and literally a brand new 3,000 pound jack. I'm going to put my car on all 4 jack stands using the frame rails in the front then the jack points in the rear, as well as taking off the front tires to slide under the frame right behind the front jack stands to act as a 'catch' just in case anything bad happens. As far as jacking the engine goes, isn't there the front crossmember that would hold the engine if the jack were to fail?

 

Yes, crossmember will act as a safety if engine were to slip off jack. I also like chocking rear wheels just in case.

 

Yes, just make sure a hand or arm or finger isn't between the two in that unlikely event! Some like to unbolt the crossmember for more access. Point of my post was safety and sounds like you are already aware.

 

Hey guys, i'm in the process of changing my headers and engine mounts and i ran into a major snag. I can't seem to get the two 14mm bolts off of the metal mount into the engine. It's the two bolts on both sides that are to the front of the car. There is a heat shield/ gaurd thing in the way so i can't get a socket in there. I've literally tried every combination of rachet's sockets and extensions and i really don't want to strip it. I've literally been working on these bolts for the last two hours. I'm VERY frustrated right now. I need help!

Here's some pics:





Posted a thread about this, bumping this thread to see if any of you experts here have any tips and any advice to get those nuts off would be helpful! haha I spent a good two hours trying to work those off, very frustrating.

 

A regular u-joint with a socket will be too tall. I used the Mac's swivel impact socket. The head of the socket is much shorter. Craftsman has their own version (rebranded Mac), but they're not cheap. On the bright side, these swivel sockets last a hell lot longer than the regular pin-swivel sockets.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...o=2&blockType=

Try to bend the shield if you can. It'll give you some room.


Oh yea, you're still going to get the headers, motor mounts, daizen bushings in your car all by the end of today right?

 

I give you guys A LOT of credit...that's why I just shelled out the dough for my mechanic to deal with it. GL TL!

 

Haha! Yeah it's taking a little longer than i though it would. Whenever i work on my car i seem to run into a few minor things that take FOREVER to figure out.

But thanks again for all the help you have provided! I really appreciate it!



Thanks rock! I'll keep ya posted on how everything goes!

 

Headers and my Lsd are both arriving monday! Cant wait have a huge build to do when the weater warms up.

 

UPDATE: Got the P0430 code cleared a few days ago. I guess there was a leak at the header/cat. The Bank 2 sensor 2 is now reading like it should so that's a good thing.

I haven't gone through enough gas tanks, but my mpg has dropped just a bit. It's not because I drive aggressive (my grandmother can beat me in a race), but because I have to give it a bit more gas to get my car up to speed. The lost in low end is there, but may not be apparent if you drive aggressively. Still, I'm removing mine sometimes in March so I can hunt for a set of used S&S (14 gauge). I'm usually stuck in traffic so my RPM rarely exceeds 2.5k rpm (where they start making a noticeable amount of power). These headers should be great for those with force induction though!

 

^ Are you going to get a Neo or similar to tune the engine for the headers (either these or S&S). This may help you regain some low end power.