VSC/Brake/ABS Lights-Alternatives to Master Cylinder
11-14-10, 04:48 PM
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VSC/Brake/ABS Lights-Alternatives to Master Cylinder
So, I got in my car today and saw the dreaded VSC lights on. Thought it was just the throttle sensor but then realized it was more. The brake/ABS/VSC lights are on along with a persistent high pitch alarm. Did a search and saw that it's most likely the master cylinder which would be around $2k or maybe the ABS cable which is around $200. Though, I always thought the brake pedal was never firm enough. Are there any other alternatives? I don't even have $2k to fix the car even if it was the master cylinder. Being a college student sucks...
11-15-10, 05:54 PM
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Hmm...just inspected my car from the engine and from the brakes. The master brake cylinder is filled beyond the max despite the fact that it has been normal for the past month. Pedal is extremely stiff with the engine on.
11-15-10, 07:55 PM
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It's a 98 GS400.
Edit:
This seems quite unusual. I thought if the master cylinder failed, the pedal would be soft or go to the floor. Now, the pedal is impossible to push down and the resevoir is so full that it could just spill out. I know that nothing was added because I use ATE super blue.
Edit:
This seems quite unusual. I thought if the master cylinder failed, the pedal would be soft or go to the floor. Now, the pedal is impossible to push down and the resevoir is so full that it could just spill out. I know that nothing was added because I use ATE super blue.
11-15-10, 08:02 PM
#6
hmm, with the ignition off pump the brakes 40 times or until the pedal gets super stiff where you can move it no more. have some one check the fluid level as it will raise.
while keeping your foot down turn the ignition on but don't start. pedal and fluid should go down.
if this works , your brake booster is ok. as for the complete diagnostics of the Brake master, you really need to take it someone that has a enhanced diagnostics reader. its usually a $6K to $15K machine, like a computer that will tell you the codes. Hopefully they can tell you without too much of a charge.,
second would be to check the resistance in your ABS/Speed sensors at the front wheels
while keeping your foot down turn the ignition on but don't start. pedal and fluid should go down.
if this works , your brake booster is ok. as for the complete diagnostics of the Brake master, you really need to take it someone that has a enhanced diagnostics reader. its usually a $6K to $15K machine, like a computer that will tell you the codes. Hopefully they can tell you without too much of a charge.,
second would be to check the resistance in your ABS/Speed sensors at the front wheels
11-17-10, 01:31 PM
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Alright, I would try that advice as it seems like a good idea but it's not an issue anymore. Lights went away. I took it to the dealership and they tried everything they could to get the codes to appear but no luck. They even test drove it for a good distance.
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11-28-10, 09:24 PM
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For future reference if anyone stumbles onto this thread later on, warning lights came on again. ABS, VSC, VSC OFF, and Brake. Looked at it again and it sounded like unit wasn't able to pump. Dealer ran a diagnosis and the verdict is that the master brake cylinder is out. 2K+ to repair it and another dealer confirmed that price.
11-29-10, 06:12 AM
#9
For future reference if anyone stumbles onto this thread later on, warning lights came on again. ABS, VSC, VSC OFF, and Brake. Looked at it again and it sounded like unit wasn't able to pump. Dealer ran a diagnosis and the verdict is that the master brake cylinder is out. 2K+ to repair it and another dealer confirmed that price.
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Last edited by 99Aristo; 11-29-10 at 06:17 AM.
01-10-11, 10:52 AM
#11
In order to completely diagnose the failure, you would need proper tools. i have taken a few apart and i can tell you from my experience it has always been the ABS unit/Electronics.
The CYl. in most cases just like any high mile car would need a new seal kit if ur pedal is super spongy (you can test the cyl alone to confirm)
The booster i never had a problem with even though some may say the Nitrogen goes low, but the ABS is a Soup of Valves, springs etc..(Hydraulics) with electronics that again in my experience almost always take a dump.
i have two units if your interested. 01 GS3 units
The CYl. in most cases just like any high mile car would need a new seal kit if ur pedal is super spongy (you can test the cyl alone to confirm)
The booster i never had a problem with even though some may say the Nitrogen goes low, but the ABS is a Soup of Valves, springs etc..(Hydraulics) with electronics that again in my experience almost always take a dump.
i have two units if your interested. 01 GS3 units
01-11-11, 11:08 AM
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i have all the lights on the dash as mentioned, and a super mushy pedal, that if i hold pressure, will eventually go to the floor.... master cyl? doesn't seem electronic related but who knows, maybe.
01-11-11, 02:54 PM
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In order to completely diagnose the failure, you would need proper tools. i have taken a few apart and i can tell you from my experience it has always been the ABS unit/Electronics.
The CYl. in most cases just like any high mile car would need a new seal kit if ur pedal is super spongy (you can test the cyl alone to confirm)
The booster i never had a problem with even though some may say the Nitrogen goes low, but the ABS is a Soup of Valves, springs etc..(Hydraulics) with electronics that again in my experience almost always take a dump.
i have two units if your interested. 01 GS3 units
The CYl. in most cases just like any high mile car would need a new seal kit if ur pedal is super spongy (you can test the cyl alone to confirm)
The booster i never had a problem with even though some may say the Nitrogen goes low, but the ABS is a Soup of Valves, springs etc..(Hydraulics) with electronics that again in my experience almost always take a dump.
i have two units if your interested. 01 GS3 units
my lights are on and i've pulled the codes and it has a code for rf wheel sensor and abs module.....any fix.....?