cong28

Just to let you know off hand, I'm still very new to the Turbo world so this will be my first car w/ a turbo. I have never rode on a car that has a turbo before so I wouldn't know how it feels to ride one. These are just some of my questions that I have:

1) How to maintain a turbo so it can run properly? i.e. oil change, filter change, ect.
2) How hard can I drive my car on a daily bases?
3) How long do I have to wait until the turbo gets cool down?
4) If I drove 1 mile compared to 30 miles, is the cool down period the same when I stop the car? How about heavy driving for about 10-40 minutes?
5) Since I'm getting the Tranny Valve upgrade, how long is the break-in period?
6) Will I be able to drive 200+ miles without stoping?
7) Can I use the E-shift from 5th to 3rd or whichever gear I'm in?
8) Can a gauge be added?
9) What signs do I look out for if something is not right with the turbo?
10) What are some things that I shouldn't do?

This is just a few questions that I can't answer myself so hopefully you guys can answer it for me.

Thanks

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Cong,

You might be better off posting this in the SRT Forum (or at least cross posting here to see if Mo or Marken will answer them here).

I've got the same questions as you - one of the reasons my name isn't on the list to get the TT (yet ) is that I want to hear more of the pros/cons from other folks who have done it first.

8) Can a gauge be added?
- I'd assumed at least a boost gauge comes with the kit. If not, you'll want one.

9) What signs do I look out for if something is not right with the turbo?
- Look for smoke or fire. Stop the car and RUN.

Also - best of luck with this setup and congratulations! Please be sure to post your thoughts and experiences at installation and as it ages a while.

cong28

hahaha I'll try not to panic and get myself run over.

bravo261

iTrader: (1)

i thought we were supposed to sit calmly and wait it out...

Zulfie

Cong,

1. Definitely change oil at 2500-3000 miles, sooner depending on how you drive the car. Also depending on your location ( dusty, dirty ). This is also good for engine life. Use a good oil filter.

2. You can drive the car however you want, as long as your are not over boosting ( spikes ). Also, don't drive too hard on boost at redline, or your risking fuel cut, which will cause detonation ( very bad thing ), which will seriously damage your engine. Think of it as a bomb going off in your engine.. Get the picture. Not sure what type of turbo / setup, but it should be setup correctly, electronically control pressure ( computer ), or mechanically ( waste gate is set to open up to only a certain amount ) I get a lot more detailed, but that is the jist ( sp?? ) of it...

3. Depending on how hard you drive, normal cool down time is about 1.5 minutes ( some spirited driving ). If you drive it really hard, let it cool down about 3 minutes. I would suggest a turbo timer, but not sure if there is a plug n play one for the GS. You can alway get one and hard wire it in. This is normally the very first thing you buy for a turbo, before any other mods to the turbo system. I learned that the hard way many years ago on my 3000GT VR4. It was the first thing I did to my RX-7, but cranking boost up. Now running about an estimated 320 HP at wheel. ( Oh Yeah )

4. See #3.

5. Not sure about this one, if a clutch is involved, then about 500 miles for proper wear.

6. Yep, no issue there.

7. Not a problem either, again becareful of red lining ( detonation )

8. Yes, a gauge can be added easily. The easiest thing is putting one in an A Pillar Pod, however, I think this would be somewhat un-attractive in a Lexus. Maybe remove your ashtray and install in there.

9. Signs, well, smoke, when on boost, the car really doesn't move. You should feel the difference when on boost versus normal driving. Again, not sure what type of turbo, so not sure at what RPM it comes on. Look for oil puddle under car, if the housing cracks or leaks. Trust me, you know if something happens to it.

10. Again, the main thing is pushing the car past redline while on boost, which in most car causes fuel cut, or the car can't supply enough fuel to keep the engine fed, or else BOOM, detonation.... This is where you would have to totally rebuild the engine depending on damage.....

I hope this helps...

Ray

Mike D.

1)It depends on what type of turbo your buying. Ball bearing or conventional. The first thing I would invest in, would be, a turbo timer.
2)As hard as you want. Seriously. Even harder with a built bottom end.
3)It depends on how hard your driving. I always set my turbo timer at 3min. 30sec.
4)Same as above.
5)I would guess about 800-1000 miles.
6)Absolutely
7)I don't see why not.
8)Why wouldn't you? Your playing it safe by getting a couple. Boost,Egt, and fuel.
9)Smoke is the biggest thing to look out for. Also, oil leakage.
Smoke is a good indicator of a bad impeller.
10)Be careful not to boost too hard in cool weather. Do anything to avoid detonation. If your building your bottom end, get your pistons coated along with the exhaust manifold. Helps prevent detonation. Worst thing you could possbly do is, take your car to a shop that doesn't know what the hell they're doing. Take care.

cong28

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. Hopefully all goes well when I start running my car w/ the turbo. As for the Turbo, I'm get the SRT Stage 2, here are the parts it comes w/ so you guys can have a better idea what I'm getting.

How do I install the Turbo timer if I have to hard wire it?

_________________________________________________

The Stage 2 kit (300+ RWHP - Auto Tranny) includes all
· customer installable
· Ceramic base painted, oven baked, tig welded, thick wall, tube-style turbo manifold
· 8 PSI Max developed boost
· Turbonetics® T04E turbo unit made to SRT specifications
· Turbonetics® Turbo heat shield
· Turbonetics® Racegate in closed looped form
· Turbonetics® open air blow-off valve
· SRT Custom double layer fiberglass filled exhaust manifold heatshield
· Mandrel bent, T304 2.5" stainless steel downpipe
· (6) RC Engineering 440cc fuel injectors
· (6) NGK Colder Platinum Spark Plugs
· SRT air/fuel ECU
· SRT wastegate pressure regulator
· Ceramic base painted and oven baked complete mandrel bent hard pipes (turbo-to-throttle body)
· Mandrel bent intake hard pipe (includes cold air intake pipe as standard equipment)
· Stainless steel braided turbo oil supply line
· Stainless steel braided turbo oil return line
· Silicone hose connectors
· Silicone vacuum hoses
· Front mount Spearco core intercooler w/SRT endcaps
· Hard pipes to and from the Intercooler
· More aggresively tuned SRT ECU

__________________________________________________

Zulfie

Cong,
I can't specifially remember the wiring sequence, but the main wires are obviously power, and ignition wires. You basically pull the ignition wiring cables and find the matching wires for the timer and splice it in. The only problem is probably the security systems for these cars with the transmitter in the key. I'm not an expert on that, but a really good tuner shop should be able to do this for you. The timer in essence basically bypasses the ignition switch when the timer is on, thus making it possible for you turn the key in the off position, pull the key out, and walk away from the car, and car would continue to run depending on how long you set the timer for.

This always freaks people out when I walk away from my RX while its still running....

Good Luck...

Ray