JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300
#47
Wonder if you could maybe go over everything "major" you had to deal with?
Supra throttle cable
Modify driveline (or aristo driveline)
Modify heater core outlets
Rewire ignitor
Rewire shiftlock controls?
Rewire MAF or use JDM MAF?
Run a fuel return line (SARD JPK?)
Walbro 255 Fuel pump
Custom downpipe.
Supra throttle cable
Modify driveline (or aristo driveline)
Modify heater core outlets
Rewire ignitor
Rewire shiftlock controls?
Rewire MAF or use JDM MAF?
Run a fuel return line (SARD JPK?)
Walbro 255 Fuel pump
Custom downpipe.
#48
No problem..
1. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
2. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
3. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
5. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
6. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
1. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
2. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
3. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
5. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
6. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
#49
No problem..
1. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
2. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
3. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
5. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
6. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
1. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
2. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
3. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
5. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
6. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
Which wires have to be rewired on the tranny cuz ive read that some have repinned cuz my tranny isnt reading right and doesnt shift on its own from 1st to second.... The only missing piece of my puzzle lol..... Thanx in advance
#50
I test drove mine before repinning anything and it shifted through the gears... I had to keep adding tranny fluid though. Its very sensitive till it gets full
#51
ok maybe thats it i havent checked it... it kind of takes off like in 2nd gear with now power but if i floor it itll down shift and u feel it... and on my cluster when i put it in 4 it shows 3 and 3 itll show 2 thats y i think its reppinning that has to be done its like not reading the tranny correctly
#52
ok maybe thats it i havent checked it... it kind of takes off like in 2nd gear with now power but if i floor it itll down shift and u feel it... and on my cluster when i put it in 4 it shows 3 and 3 itll show 2 thats y i think its reppinning that has to be done its like not reading the tranny correctly
#54
For the DS, I've heard that you can use the GS4 or GS430 when doing an Aristo motor swap. I'm really contemplating picking up a GS3 next year or so and doing this swap!
#55
I just had a few quick questions for you if you have a moment:
1. Where did you buy such a complete swap? Are you on the jdm twins?
2. Was there much wiring that needed to be done besides jumping a few wires on those connectors?
3. does the abs and traction control still work. I assume the traction control does not since my sc300 swap doesn't have trac.
4. How does the car pull from a stop in sequential turbo mode? Does it shift hard or does it bounce off the rev limiter on shifts?
5. Does the AC and heat work?
Thanks for any input you have. I am defintely going to do one of these swaps as well since the gs300 is a such a nice car.
#56
That im not sure of but as long as the shaft and yoke line up your good to go...for the gs300 it will definitely NOT work.
#57
Alright guys i have gotten several pm's on where i got my swap so ill just post the info to help out my fellow lexus peeps. there are several places that offer the swap online but after doing some research i went with a company called JDM DIRECT JAPANESE located in canada. they do have a website but for best deals call them. i dont remember the number so look them up on google and be sure to ask for MOE. Be sure to tell him
Fred from tx sent you...
Fred from tx sent you...
#58
Hey, Nice GS you have there.
I just had a few quick questions for you if you have a moment:
1. Where did you buy such a complete swap? Are you on the jdm twins?
2. Was there much wiring that needed to be done besides jumping a few wires on those connectors?
3. does the abs and traction control still work. I assume the traction control does not since my sc300 swap doesn't have trac.
4. How does the car pull from a stop in sequential turbo mode? Does it shift hard or does it bounce off the rev limiter on shifts?
5. Does the AC and heat work?
Thanks for any input you have. I am defintely going to do one of these swaps as well since the gs300 is a such a nice car.
I just had a few quick questions for you if you have a moment:
1. Where did you buy such a complete swap? Are you on the jdm twins?
2. Was there much wiring that needed to be done besides jumping a few wires on those connectors?
3. does the abs and traction control still work. I assume the traction control does not since my sc300 swap doesn't have trac.
4. How does the car pull from a stop in sequential turbo mode? Does it shift hard or does it bounce off the rev limiter on shifts?
5. Does the AC and heat work?
Thanks for any input you have. I am defintely going to do one of these swaps as well since the gs300 is a such a nice car.
2. wiring wasnt too difficult at all
3. abs yes, vsc no. i have the jdm traction control ecu but i havnt tried it yet
4. i have only ran the car in sequential mode and its great. a lil lag till you hit 2k then turbo #1 kicks in nicely then around 4k turbo #2 kicks in and its even better. pulls alot harder in the higher rpms but is shifts good, no bouncing off redeline
5. and YES a/c and heater WORK. SOOOO happy about that. especially here in tx
#59
1. made a post with the contact info for the swap. and yes im currently running the jdm twins. (have to do custom downpipe)
2. wiring wasnt too difficult at all
3. abs yes, vsc no. i have the jdm traction control ecu but i havnt tried it yet
4. i have only ran the car in sequential mode and its great. a lil lag till you hit 2k then turbo #1 kicks in nicely then around 4k turbo #2 kicks in and its even better. pulls alot harder in the higher rpms but is shifts good, no bouncing off redeline
5. and YES a/c and heater WORK. SOOOO happy about that. especially here in tx
2. wiring wasnt too difficult at all
3. abs yes, vsc no. i have the jdm traction control ecu but i havnt tried it yet
4. i have only ran the car in sequential mode and its great. a lil lag till you hit 2k then turbo #1 kicks in nicely then around 4k turbo #2 kicks in and its even better. pulls alot harder in the higher rpms but is shifts good, no bouncing off redeline
5. and YES a/c and heater WORK. SOOOO happy about that. especially here in tx
Thanks!
#60
Thanks for the info. Did you get the aristo rear diff, driveshaft, and intercooler from the canadian importer. I saw they have a price on their website for $2800 for everything minus the rear diff and axels for the vvti setup. Could you send me a pm if you do not want to post the price you paid for everything with the rear diff, and driveshaft included. I am looking for a setup that comes with everything so I do not have to source a lot of parts.
Thanks!
Thanks!