2JZGTE swap has begun
06-08-11, 05:57 PM
#31
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can you describe what exactly you have done to your fuel system? what injectors, what fuel pressure regulator how you have you return line plumbed in, how you have modified your fuel pump housing etc. . . .
Its possible that you may have 2 fuel pressure regulators in your system. The OEM GTE one on the motor and the OEM GS300 one in the tank. That would be my guess, but without more info I can't say for sure.
Its possible that you may have 2 fuel pressure regulators in your system. The OEM GTE one on the motor and the OEM GS300 one in the tank. That would be my guess, but without more info I can't say for sure.
Last edited by SlvrGS300; 06-08-11 at 07:26 PM.
06-08-11, 10:21 PM
#33
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Ok. Im using stock Aristo injectors, and have run a return line to the fuel inlet to the tank.
Otherwise, did not touch the NAgs300 fuel pump assembly. Oxygen sensors are plugged in.
Car is running stupidly rich, and after driving about 50 miles its starting to chug/almost misfire at light load on highway. Im afraid plugs are fouling out with incredible amounts of fuel being dumped.
Cruising on highway, AEM UEGO shows 10.0, but Im positive its less (gauge wont show less than 10)
Did I need to do something to the NA GS300 fuel pump assembly/regulator?
Im using my stock NA GS300 MAF, do I need to get the stock Aristo MAF ?
Thanks guys.
Otherwise, did not touch the NAgs300 fuel pump assembly. Oxygen sensors are plugged in.
Car is running stupidly rich, and after driving about 50 miles its starting to chug/almost misfire at light load on highway. Im afraid plugs are fouling out with incredible amounts of fuel being dumped.
Cruising on highway, AEM UEGO shows 10.0, but Im positive its less (gauge wont show less than 10)
Did I need to do something to the NA GS300 fuel pump assembly/regulator?
Im using my stock NA GS300 MAF, do I need to get the stock Aristo MAF ?
Thanks guys.
06-09-11, 06:34 AM
#34
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It definitely sounds like you have 2 fuel pressure regulators in your fuel system. there is one in the OEM GS assembly that you have to remove since you have the one on the GTE fuel rail as well. Don't drive too much more on this until you fix it or you will end up replacing piston rings as well.
You can use the GS300 MAF as long as it is in the same diameter intake pipe as stock.
You can use the GS300 MAF as long as it is in the same diameter intake pipe as stock.
06-09-11, 09:53 AM
#35
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My mechanic is insisting that the fuel pump regulator wouldnt be creating a problem due to the return line which would send back all of the unused fuel back to the tank. If anyone can tell me 100% that I need to remove the fuel pump regulator than Ill have that done.
He is insisting I buy the Aristo maf.
Does anyone know if the Supra Turbo USDM uses the same MAF? Buying one here in the USA would be a whole lot easier than importing an Aristo maf from Japan/Australia.
He is insisting I buy the Aristo maf.
Does anyone know if the Supra Turbo USDM uses the same MAF? Buying one here in the USA would be a whole lot easier than importing an Aristo maf from Japan/Australia.
06-09-11, 12:52 PM
#37
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06-13-11, 10:15 AM
#39
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Im using the Aristo MAF, and I'm getting the numbers I mentioned, I'm on a walbro 255 , return line with a SARD jet pump killer , using GTE regulator , stock injectors
My mechanic is insisting that the fuel pump regulator wouldnt be creating a problem due to the return line which would send back all of the unused fuel back to the tank. If anyone can tell me 100% that I need to remove the fuel pump regulator than Ill have that done.
He is insisting I buy the Aristo maf.
Does anyone know if the Supra Turbo USDM uses the same MAF? Buying one here in the USA would be a whole lot easier than importing an Aristo maf from Japan/Australia.
He is insisting I buy the Aristo maf.
Does anyone know if the Supra Turbo USDM uses the same MAF? Buying one here in the USA would be a whole lot easier than importing an Aristo maf from Japan/Australia.
Last edited by Wicked GS; 06-13-11 at 12:16 PM.
06-14-11, 05:38 AM
#40
couple things here
firstly use the jdm maf if not you have to get the pin order changed on the us maf or it will result in mis metered air .. as i did the swap for blu sc3 and had the same issue until we plugged in the jdm maf .
also its best to use the oem airbox as these vvti maf are super sensative to precisly measured air
also you must remove the piece in the fuel pump assembly and either modify it to continue with the venturi effect but yet allow for the fuel to return to tank and yet still siphon from the other side of tank which as blu sc3 stated using the sard jet pump killer
firstly use the jdm maf if not you have to get the pin order changed on the us maf or it will result in mis metered air .. as i did the swap for blu sc3 and had the same issue until we plugged in the jdm maf .
also its best to use the oem airbox as these vvti maf are super sensative to precisly measured air
also you must remove the piece in the fuel pump assembly and either modify it to continue with the venturi effect but yet allow for the fuel to return to tank and yet still siphon from the other side of tank which as blu sc3 stated using the sard jet pump killer
06-14-11, 12:53 PM
#41
^ Not true.
The USDM MAF is properly pinned and calibrated to work with the swap, as long as it's in the NA housing with the NA intake size.
The car will run the same with both, unless you're running more power and start maxing out the airflow on the NA.
Take it from a guy that had his car fired up and running on the first try with no issues, and I've personally used both MAF's.
The USDM MAF is properly pinned and calibrated to work with the swap, as long as it's in the NA housing with the NA intake size.
The car will run the same with both, unless you're running more power and start maxing out the airflow on the NA.
Take it from a guy that had his car fired up and running on the first try with no issues, and I've personally used both MAF's.
06-15-11, 05:40 AM
#43
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Ben
06-15-11, 12:25 PM
#44
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When I did my swap, I had to swap the pins in the grey plug with the black jumper to the right of the orange plug in this pic.
If I remember correct, I used the GS jumper on the Aristo plug because I didn't get the jumper or it was broken or something.
Then you have to rearrange the pins in the plug to make it look like it does in this pic.
once you do that the dash lights light up and the shiftlock will release the shifter.
Hope this helps,
Ryan
If I remember correct, I used the GS jumper on the Aristo plug because I didn't get the jumper or it was broken or something.
Then you have to rearrange the pins in the plug to make it look like it does in this pic.
once you do that the dash lights light up and the shiftlock will release the shifter.
Hope this helps,
Ryan
soooo you reppinned this because you had to use the stock gs jumper??? i want to know because i feel like thats what i might have to do my transmission isnt taking off in first when its in drive and isnt shifting properly i feel like maybe its reading as if it were the 5sp gs tranny.... idk... the only thing thats holding me back from driving my gs/aristo... iam using the grey jumper that i believe came with the swap... im not sure but i think grey is the jdm jumper an black is gs.... any help would be greatly appreciated....