np homie! that 14psi variation limit from the factory just means no two cylinders should be more than 14psi apart. You have one cyl that's more than that, but it's more than 14 too high, which usually isn't a problem. Just gotta watch out for heat when you go FI, as heat+high comp = detonation.

It's been a while but I'm hoping to get my *** back in a 2gs shortly, I've missed this community and can't wait to be back.

 

The spec of the maximum difference between cylinders is just really a reference for you. Typically when an engine is going out, one or a few cylinders will be really low compression. It usually doesn't all just crap out at once. The +/- 15psi spec is just to give you a reference. Just for example if your gauge is reading incorrectly.

So say the read reading is 160psi, but your gauge was dropped a few times and it's only readig like 140psi. As long as you are +/- from 140psi then you're ok.

 

So, what do you think of my results in your opinion? Btw, how much do you think a shop would typically charge to replace pistons and rings in an engine? Is this all you would need to make fresh again?

 

I think you're ok. Just go ahead and boost it. To replace pistons and rings is very expensive. They are basically rebuilding a whole new engine at that point. Might as well do forged pistons and rods if you plan on rebuilding.

 

I would feel comfortable boosting it with those numbers as well. The spread isn't huge, and none of the numbers are drastically low.

Like I mentioned before if your very concerned with the condition and really want to know, do a leak down test and a radiator pressure test. These in conjunction with the compression test will really give you a very good picture of how the engine is sealing the rings, valves, and headgasket..

Top operating condition of the cooling system is critical with FI as well.

 

Cool! One other thing and off topic. What do you guys think of doing custom cams? I think Lextreme has a setup, has anyone on CL done this on a V8? I dont remember seeing this.