View Poll Results: Where Do You Usually Set Your ECT?
Power, baby! Gas mileage be damned, I want performance!
136
45.79%
Normal; it provides the proper balance between acceleration and economy.
147
49.49%
Snow, because I hate starting in first gear.
1
0.34%
Eee see WHAT?
13
4.38%
Voters: 297. You may not vote on this poll
Where Do You Usually Set Your ECT?
12-25-04, 08:17 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Dex
...does not lock out 5th gear at all.
Just want to lean new thing. That's all. Thanks for sharing.
12-26-04, 07:34 AM
#33
Originally Posted by sung35
What exactly do you mean by "lock out". Can you elaborate this a little bit further? Fifth gear in automatic will "lock" the torque converter so that the engine and the wheel spin at the "same" speed. I think this is what is usually called "overdrive" in other models.
Just want to lean new thing. That's all. Thanks for sharing.
Just want to lean new thing. That's all. Thanks for sharing.
12-26-04, 07:36 AM
#34
oh and overdrive as I understsand it is a little different. Ussually 1 tun at the crank shaft will equal less than one turn on the driveshaft. When in overdrive 1 turn at the crankshaft will equal more than one turn at the crankshaft. I am sure if I am wrong someone will correct me but I am pretty sure this is the way it is defined.
12-26-04, 09:23 AM
#35
I Use Normal Most Of The Time
Hello,
I like the normal setting most of the time. I tend to reserve the POWER mode for times when I am really getting on it. I find that the mid throttle downshifting is quicker. Normally I have to press farther on the pedal for a downshift, but in POWER, it shifts at just the slightest touch of the pedal. I don't keep it there long, so I don't know how it affects gas mileage. I would think that the mileage would be compromised with additional shifting.
Just for the heck of it, I tried SNOW mode, and it greatly limits accelerator response, as it is supposed to do. With either the cable drive (98-2000), or drive by wire (2001-on), the opening of the butterfly plate is controlled by the electric motor on the opposite side of the throttle body. The drive by wire setup just adds a few other components to the mix..( a variable resistor on the accelerator pedal linkage on the floorboard inside the car instead of the cable end, and the wired transducer on the throttle body in place of the cable at the other end..
In other words, once a request is made by the accelerator pedal, the computer determines how much throttle plate angle to give the throttle body, and the MOTOR physically opens the butterfly plate. THAT is why there is a lag between throttle request and actuation. The throttle position sensor moves with accelerator pedal, but the throttle motor moves as the computer commands it to. The extra components on the drive-by-wire setup contribute to the slower response on these cars. That seems to be why many of us prefer the older cable arrangement, but we are just barely better than drive-by-wire for the reasons just mentioned. After a short lag, the drive by wire GS430 responds favorably.
I have a scan tool to reset faults, so I ran my engine with the black air hose disconnected to see the throttle response on my 99 GS4. Running your engine with that hose disconnected will immediately set a code for loss of airflow through the mass air flow sensor near the air filter.
To see what I mean, stop the engine, and remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body of a 98-2000 model car, and push the throttle plate inside on the top with your finger. The spring-loaded plate and motor will move, but the cable from the accelerator will be unaffected. The internal shaft is connected to the accelerator cable and the T.P.S, but not the plate and motor.
Moving the accelerator cable with the engine running causes a small movement of the throttle plate that raises the engine speed. Quickly moving the cable up and down (snapping the throttle) will reveal the lag between the time the cable is moved, and the time the motor actually opens the the throttle plate. It is even slower under load when the car is moving.
This is contrary to any other system that has a throttle plate attached directly to a throttle cable. Changing the response of the motor is the key, and I am sure that the computer programming for the motor is designed to be more responsive when the mode button is in the power mode.
This motor makes a full throttle start in "snow" mode seem mild and mundane, because the throttle door is still almost fully closed. This is a very complicated system that takes into consideration such variables as engine temperature, tps position, engine rpm, vehicle speed, wheelspin, engine load and a host of others.
These calculations have to be made in a split second, analyzed, and signals sent to the motor to control plate angle before we see any power. If any of these parts fail or degrade in performance, throttle response suffers even further.
Quite complex indeed. Just my $.02
I like the normal setting most of the time. I tend to reserve the POWER mode for times when I am really getting on it. I find that the mid throttle downshifting is quicker. Normally I have to press farther on the pedal for a downshift, but in POWER, it shifts at just the slightest touch of the pedal. I don't keep it there long, so I don't know how it affects gas mileage. I would think that the mileage would be compromised with additional shifting.
Just for the heck of it, I tried SNOW mode, and it greatly limits accelerator response, as it is supposed to do. With either the cable drive (98-2000), or drive by wire (2001-on), the opening of the butterfly plate is controlled by the electric motor on the opposite side of the throttle body. The drive by wire setup just adds a few other components to the mix..( a variable resistor on the accelerator pedal linkage on the floorboard inside the car instead of the cable end, and the wired transducer on the throttle body in place of the cable at the other end..
In other words, once a request is made by the accelerator pedal, the computer determines how much throttle plate angle to give the throttle body, and the MOTOR physically opens the butterfly plate. THAT is why there is a lag between throttle request and actuation. The throttle position sensor moves with accelerator pedal, but the throttle motor moves as the computer commands it to. The extra components on the drive-by-wire setup contribute to the slower response on these cars. That seems to be why many of us prefer the older cable arrangement, but we are just barely better than drive-by-wire for the reasons just mentioned. After a short lag, the drive by wire GS430 responds favorably.
I have a scan tool to reset faults, so I ran my engine with the black air hose disconnected to see the throttle response on my 99 GS4. Running your engine with that hose disconnected will immediately set a code for loss of airflow through the mass air flow sensor near the air filter.
To see what I mean, stop the engine, and remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body of a 98-2000 model car, and push the throttle plate inside on the top with your finger. The spring-loaded plate and motor will move, but the cable from the accelerator will be unaffected. The internal shaft is connected to the accelerator cable and the T.P.S, but not the plate and motor.
Moving the accelerator cable with the engine running causes a small movement of the throttle plate that raises the engine speed. Quickly moving the cable up and down (snapping the throttle) will reveal the lag between the time the cable is moved, and the time the motor actually opens the the throttle plate. It is even slower under load when the car is moving.
This is contrary to any other system that has a throttle plate attached directly to a throttle cable. Changing the response of the motor is the key, and I am sure that the computer programming for the motor is designed to be more responsive when the mode button is in the power mode.
This motor makes a full throttle start in "snow" mode seem mild and mundane, because the throttle door is still almost fully closed. This is a very complicated system that takes into consideration such variables as engine temperature, tps position, engine rpm, vehicle speed, wheelspin, engine load and a host of others.
These calculations have to be made in a split second, analyzed, and signals sent to the motor to control plate angle before we see any power. If any of these parts fail or degrade in performance, throttle response suffers even further.
Quite complex indeed. Just my $.02
Last edited by gserep1; 12-26-04 at 10:09 AM.
02-20-05, 02:22 PM
#36
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: May 2004
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ECT always on PWR
I leave the ECT setting on PWR all the time on all three of my cars (GS400, SC400, LX470). I have not been able to detect any difference in mpg between the settings and find the acceleration much more responsive in the PWR setting. Probably less likely in PWR setting to feel the need to resort to WOT to get the desired response Maybe thats why the mileage results are just about the same.
02-26-05, 09:34 AM
#37
Pole Position
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Originally Posted by DetMich1
I leave the ECT setting on PWR all the time on all three of my cars (GS400, SC400, LX470). I have not been able to detect any difference in mpg between the settings and find the acceleration much more responsive in the PWR setting. Probably less likely in PWR setting to feel the need to resort to WOT to get the desired response Maybe thats why the mileage results are just about the same.
By the way, you've got great taste in cars. I own all three of those vehicles as well, although my SC400 is for sale right now.
04-24-06, 06:05 PM
#38
I thought the pwr mode/ect only worked while in auto mode, but not during e-shifting...?
Has anyonye reset this button so we don't have to have the dash light on? The pwr and traction control off lights drove me near insane on a recent road trip. Can I rewire the traction to be OFF by default, and turn it ON by hitting the button, for instance?
Has anyonye reset this button so we don't have to have the dash light on? The pwr and traction control off lights drove me near insane on a recent road trip. Can I rewire the traction to be OFF by default, and turn it ON by hitting the button, for instance?
06-03-06, 04:03 AM
#41
Actually in snow mode the car will still start in 1st gear. It's just that the ecu leaves the throttle plate barely open. If you floor it in snow mode I think the throttle plate will only open like 30-40% at most. I've actually tried this before. Leave car in 1st and snow is on.....drive to 20mph. Keep your foot at the same position(don't let off gas) and then click it over to PWR and your head will kick back 
06-23-06, 05:42 AM
#43
Just like cliffud, I used to drive in normal mode until I read this thread. Now I usually leave in pwr mode. I think your mpg is only going to change depending on how you drive. If you always accelerate hard, like I do, then you're going to get less mpg. But just simply keeping the car in pwr mode isn't really going to affect your mpg like someone said earlier in the thread. Just my 2 cents.
07-13-06, 12:36 AM
#45
Pole Position
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before reading this, i never really messed with the button, because I really didn't know what effect it would have my tranny. (I don't want to shorten the life of my tranny is what i'm saying)
after reading this, sounds like it only effects gas mileage really, so i'm gonna drive around with the pwr on tomorrow LOL
after reading this, sounds like it only effects gas mileage really, so i'm gonna drive around with the pwr on tomorrow LOL