Performance Forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

Tuner for GS400/430??

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Old 04-10-14 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex
Found a shop that I like! They also deal with tuning all AEM products and have dealt with forced induction on Lexus in the past; well mostly the IS line. CLEAN, decent size shop and seems like he knows what he's doing...researched him a bit as well on-line and had good reviews.

I may have him do the entire install...or he may just finish it up for me and tune it. Dropping car off on the 28th if all stays on track!
awesome.. keep us updated.... a new member to the forced induction club
Old 04-10-14 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex
Found a shop that I like! They also deal with tuning all AEM products and have dealt with forced induction on Lexus in the past; well mostly the IS line. CLEAN, decent size shop and seems like he knows what he's doing...researched him a bit as well on-line and had good reviews.

I may have him do the entire install...or he may just finish it up for me and tune it. Dropping car off on the 28th if all stays on track!
Whats the name of the shop?
Old 04-10-14 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex
Decided to install myself with a fellow CL member either next weekend or the following.

This weekend - getting bung for oil return welded to oil pan

Next couple of days, order:
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Wideband gauge
Boost gauge
AEM FI/C 8
Dual gauge pod

Following weekends - install everything myself with the exception of gauges and AEM piggyback

Weekend thereafter - bring to tuning shop to install gauges, piggyback and tune

I'm shooting to be completely done a month from now. Then I will eventually bring it to a good transmission shop and get a valvebody upgrade. Still another $2 - 3k to spend and I already spent $3,200 on the kit itself (used) and another $400 in a few additional parts and fluids.
Not sure if you got the bung for the oil return line welded on yet, but just to let you know, you can just remove the oil level sensor and use that as the return. Makes it way easier and easily reversible. That is how I installed my RMM kit and it worked perfectly. PM me if you want more details but its pretty self explanatory once you remove the sensor. Also all you have to do is crimp the two wires that go to the sensor together and you wont have a low oil light on the dash.
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Old 04-10-14 | 10:02 PM
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Good info on this thread! Keep it coming fellas, might be needing this in the future.
Old 04-11-14 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by LALEX1
Not sure if you got the bung for the oil return line welded on yet, but just to let you know, you can just remove the oil level sensor and use that as the return. Makes it way easier and easily reversible. That is how I installed my RMM kit and it worked perfectly. PM me if you want more details but its pretty self explanatory once you remove the sensor. Also all you have to do is crimp the two wires that go to the sensor together and you wont have a low oil light on the dash.
Agreed and thanks for the tip but then it seems I will lose my low oil indicator as I would be removing the oil level sensor. I know that once this light comes on damage has most likely already been done; I'd just like to keep all functionality in place. From what I read I will be welding my NPT aluminum bung in the upper half of the oil pan (aluminum portion) close to the oil level sensor. As far as ease to remove should I ever sell the car without the SC I could always cap the bung; confirmed that there are caps for them. Thx
Old 04-11-14 | 06:54 AM
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lalex wish you still had your boosted GS. that was dope. also your YouTube vids have helped . thanks again.
Old 04-11-14 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex
Agreed and thanks for the tip but then it seems I will lose my low oil indicator as I would be removing the oil level sensor. I know that once this light comes on damage has most likely already been done; I'd just like to keep all functionality in place. From what I read I will be welding my NPT aluminum bung in the upper half of the oil pan (aluminum portion) close to the oil level sensor. As far as ease to remove should I ever sell the car without the SC I could always cap the bung; confirmed that there are caps for them. Thx
The reason I didn't mind losing my oil level sensor, was because unless something catastrophic happened (cracking oil pan, throwing a rod, or possibly supercharger unit having a huge crack) I don't think you would have to worry about the oil being low. And if any of those things happened I'm sure you would know asap without having to wait for the light to come on. Just check your oil regularly to see if you're engine is burning oil.
Also be careful when you drill the bung, because from what I remember you don't want to get any metal shavings in the oil/oil pan. So you will most likely have to flush the oil as well.
I didn't want to deal with all that so I just used the oil level sensor bung.
Either way, let us know how it goes and take some pictures!!!



Originally Posted by tmf2004
lalex wish you still had your boosted GS. that was dope. also your YouTube vids have helped . thanks again.
Thanks. I wish I still had it too. But don't be surprised if you see me back here in the near future with a boosted 300.
I don't know why more people with boosted GS400's/430's don't post more videos of their cars on youtube!!
Old 04-11-14 | 10:14 AM
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There were more Boosted GS400/430's back when i first joined CL and even before that but don't know what happened to them.. probably parted out the cars etc... Since only 25 RMM kits were made those are next to existence lol...
Old 06-19-14 | 07:02 AM
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Rock-a-Lex, I know it's been a few months and we're all curious on how your build is coming along. What's the name of the shop you took your car to?
Old 06-19-14 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by erknjerk78
Rock-a-Lex, I know it's been a few months and we're all curious on how your build is coming along. What's the name of the shop you took your car to?
Car is done mechanically, just left with trying to figure out the tuning...the FIC is being a PITA to work with. I just found out I may need to remove my o2 sensor wires that are going to the FIC; only need to connect them if I'm planning on altering the o2 signal which I'm not. I too used the oil level sensor area for my oil drain line. I will create a new thread when it's running well and tuned.
Old 06-19-14 | 05:15 PM
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looking forward to the write up and pics Rock...
Old 06-21-14 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tmf2004
looking forward to the write up and pics Rock...
What tmf2004 said...
Old 06-21-14 | 05:25 PM
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More news: I think my FIC is messed up (or my wiring harness). I sent both out to AEM today to look at. Unfortunately I bought this for $345 used on EBay when they go for $600 new. Won't ever buy used electronics again. It will get to AEM by Wednesday. If it's broke then they'll fix it and I'm sure my problems would then be solved. If it's not broke I will put it up for sale on EBay along with the harness. I'll then get a standalone or something.
Old 06-21-14 | 06:02 PM
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well at least hopefully you found the problem. guess you'll find out in a few days. There probably was a reason it was $345 on eBay. It will all work out in the end .
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