Boosting with the twins... is250 turbo build
#137
#138
Have you gotten a wideband installed yet?
The P0300 is more indicative of multiple events not necessarily miss-firing constantly. You may want to pull a couple of spark plugs and see what they look like to make sure you're not detonating.
Most of the P0300 codes I've seen have been from spark plugs gaps being too wide on boosted cars that weren't from the factory.
The P0300 is more indicative of multiple events not necessarily miss-firing constantly. You may want to pull a couple of spark plugs and see what they look like to make sure you're not detonating.
Most of the P0300 codes I've seen have been from spark plugs gaps being too wide on boosted cars that weren't from the factory.
#139
Have you gotten a wideband installed yet? The P0300 is more indicative of multiple events not necessarily miss-firing constantly. You may want to pull a couple of spark plugs and see what they look like to make sure you're not detonating. Most of the P0300 codes I've seen have been from spark plugs gaps being too wide on boosted cars that weren't from the factory.
#140
It's best to get a complete package. Even though the factory primary O2's may be widebands, I believe they are Denso units whereas most aftermarket WB's use Bosch sensors. The issue is that the outputs and offsets may be slightly different.
AEM and PLX widebands can be had for ~$150 on ebay. That's pretty cheap insurance...
In the mean time I'd still pull a couple of spark plugs to get an idea of how your engine responded to the highway pulls.
AEM and PLX widebands can be had for ~$150 on ebay. That's pretty cheap insurance...
In the mean time I'd still pull a couple of spark plugs to get an idea of how your engine responded to the highway pulls.
#141
Thanks for the info. I'll be purchasing one of those AEM kits as soon as I can. I'll pull out some of the easy plugs this Saturday. Last time I did my plugs I had to remove the intake manifold first which took about 2 hrs (biggest pain in the ***!!).
Did you mention something about the plug gaps needed to be slightly less now that I'm boosted?
Did you mention something about the plug gaps needed to be slightly less now that I'm boosted?
#142
On my IS350 I didn't need to remove the manifold. Just one or two on the passenger side should be enough to give you an idea and those are easy to get to.
Honestly with our crazy 3 prong iridium plugs I'm not sure how effective closing up the gap will be. You'd want to try and adjust the primary (tallest) ground strap. IIRC on the Hemi's we went from .045" (stock) to around .032" on boosted stuff, .028" when running more than 7 psi. The necessity of this may be a better question for Mike and Gville as they've got some boosted mileage under their belts...
Honestly with our crazy 3 prong iridium plugs I'm not sure how effective closing up the gap will be. You'd want to try and adjust the primary (tallest) ground strap. IIRC on the Hemi's we went from .045" (stock) to around .032" on boosted stuff, .028" when running more than 7 psi. The necessity of this may be a better question for Mike and Gville as they've got some boosted mileage under their belts...
Last edited by SH4DY; 12-26-13 at 08:25 AM.
#143
On my IS350 I didn't need to remove the manifold. Just one or two on the passenger side should be enough to give you an idea and those are easy to get to.
Honestly with our crazy 3 prong iridium plugs I'm not sure how effective closing up the gap will be. You'd want to try and adjust the primary (tallest) ground strap. IIRC on the Hemi's we went from .045" (stock) to around .032" on boosted stuff, .028" when running more than 7 psi. The necessity of this may be a better question for Mike and Gville as they've got some boosted mileage under their belts...
Honestly with our crazy 3 prong iridium plugs I'm not sure how effective closing up the gap will be. You'd want to try and adjust the primary (tallest) ground strap. IIRC on the Hemi's we went from .045" (stock) to around .032" on boosted stuff, .028" when running more than 7 psi. The necessity of this may be a better question for Mike and Gville as they've got some boosted mileage under their belts...
From what I recall... my oem plugs were only a single prong and not a 3 prong. I'll wait for the guys to chime in on this before I start making adjustments to the plugs.
#144
I've never messed with the gapping of my spark plugs. But I agree you should be a little proactive about getting a wideband and boost gauge up and running so you don't end up with a toasted engine if you're getting misfires and limp modes already. You can also buy a $25 OBDII dongle that can output tons of engine info as well as CEL codes onto your phone or tablet. Can be found on Amazon, any brand will work just do research on the app or whatever each use to output data. I use one in conjunction with dash command app on my iPad.
#145
Don't do any HWY pulls until you figure out the misfire and oiling issues; that's when you put the most load on the motor and the turbo setup actually.
I've never boosted a motor with a factory-recommended iridium spark plug before; always been simple, cheap ($1.99) NGKs. But I'd recommend after putting some decent amount of miles on it and after letting the systems "re-learn" everything, I'd pull a plug from each bank and post up some macro shots of them.
You can learn ALOT about the health of a motor from just what the plugs are telling you :
I've never boosted a motor with a factory-recommended iridium spark plug before; always been simple, cheap ($1.99) NGKs. But I'd recommend after putting some decent amount of miles on it and after letting the systems "re-learn" everything, I'd pull a plug from each bank and post up some macro shots of them.
You can learn ALOT about the health of a motor from just what the plugs are telling you :
#146
I'm went to look back thru some of the pictures. Is that your MAF connected right close to your headlight assembly? If so, where is it now? From some reading today, aren't MAFs pretty sensitive to location and orientation? Wouldn't you ideally like to keep it about the same distance from the TB, in a straight piece of pipe, oriented like it was from the factory?
#147
I'm went to look back thru some of the pictures. Is that your MAF connected right close to your headlight assembly? If so, where is it now? From some reading today, aren't MAFs pretty sensitive to location and orientation? Wouldn't you ideally like to keep it about the same distance from the TB, in a straight piece of pipe, oriented like it was from the factory?
#149
Bad news... I was about to get in my car this morning to go to work and I saw this on the floor
Called in sick and I'll be pulling the turbos off today to see what the heck happened.
Called in sick and I'll be pulling the turbos off today to see what the heck happened.