Boosting with the twins... is250 turbo build
#106
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
I cannot view YouTube vids at work, so I'm limited to what I've read; but I agree on ALL couplers, you should be using T-bolt clamps like this and NOT worm clamps :
In conjunction with them, the shop should have welded a bead onto the lip of each section of piping or bead-rolled the edges. Otherwise you'll encounter similar pipe-blowing off situations when under boost.
Side-note, here's what a pipe under 21psi sounds like when exploding off the TB (even with T-bolt clamps). Yes, my car on the dyno :
In conjunction with them, the shop should have welded a bead onto the lip of each section of piping or bead-rolled the edges. Otherwise you'll encounter similar pipe-blowing off situations when under boost.
Side-note, here's what a pipe under 21psi sounds like when exploding off the TB (even with T-bolt clamps). Yes, my car on the dyno :
#107
I'll order up these t bolt clamps right now. I don't really trust these cheap clamps that are currently on the car.
I haven't posted about the oil system... 1 pump wasn't enough to pull the oil through both turbos and back into the tank so I ended using a pump to push the oil from the tank to the turbos and from the turbos back into the tank. I have a slight leak from one of the pumps and then a slight leak from one of the turbos. I'm running rubber oil lines but I'll end up switching them over to steel braided lines as soon as I can. I have to source out higher quality oil pumps. I do a lot of driving (about 35k a year) and I wouldn't really trust my setup right now to drive too far.
I haven't posted about the oil system... 1 pump wasn't enough to pull the oil through both turbos and back into the tank so I ended using a pump to push the oil from the tank to the turbos and from the turbos back into the tank. I have a slight leak from one of the pumps and then a slight leak from one of the turbos. I'm running rubber oil lines but I'll end up switching them over to steel braided lines as soon as I can. I have to source out higher quality oil pumps. I do a lot of driving (about 35k a year) and I wouldn't really trust my setup right now to drive too far.
#112
Instructor
iTrader: (56)
Aside from whats already been mentioned you may need to look at your BOV more closely. I had a heck of a time dialing in my Synapse back in the early days of boosting this motor. It was either too stiff and not opening enough or it was so loose causing pressure fluctuations at idle and low rpm. If yours is so open to the point of air puffing out your MAF is going to freak out. The bov should be slightly open at idle but not chugging air out sounding like a choo choo train. lol
I hate to be picky but your maf and bov are damn close together as well. It looks like you only have a few inches and then a coupler separating them...maybe 5-6" apart? I would move the maf up first and then the bov down lower if issues continue.
Take for example the LMS pipe. Look at the distance between the MAF and BOV flange
I hate to be picky but your maf and bov are damn close together as well. It looks like you only have a few inches and then a coupler separating them...maybe 5-6" apart? I would move the maf up first and then the bov down lower if issues continue.
Take for example the LMS pipe. Look at the distance between the MAF and BOV flange
Last edited by mikellucci; 12-23-13 at 04:34 PM.
#113
Just cruising around town it feels great. Drives completely normal. Driveability wise,... Can't even tell it's boosted. You can hear the turbos spooling though.
No worries bro. Any help is appreciated specially with a platform I don't know much about. You're correct... my bov and maf are about 8" max apart. I did notice that the LMS kit has roughly about 1 1/2 ft from the bov to the maf. I'm off work in a couple minutes. I'll check out and adjust the bov situation when I get home.
Aside from whats already been mentioned you may need to look at your BOV more closely.
I hate to be picky but your maf and bov are damn close together as well. It looks like you only have a few inches and then a coupler separating them...maybe 5-6" apart? I would move the maf up first and then the bov down lower if issues continue.
Take for example the LMS pipe. Look at the distance between the MAF and BOV flange
I hate to be picky but your maf and bov are damn close together as well. It looks like you only have a few inches and then a coupler separating them...maybe 5-6" apart? I would move the maf up first and then the bov down lower if issues continue.
Take for example the LMS pipe. Look at the distance between the MAF and BOV flange
#115
Rechecked all my vacuum lines and everything seems to be tightened up correctly. I ended up drilling a small hole into the intake manifold and put a fitting with a vacuum line running to that BOV. The bov opens but not until I rev really high.
One concern I have... At idle the turbos aren't spinning. But with light throttle they do start spinning. Not sure if their bad already but I also notice that they blow a lot of oil and I know for sure that's not coming from my motor.
One concern I have... At idle the turbos aren't spinning. But with light throttle they do start spinning. Not sure if their bad already but I also notice that they blow a lot of oil and I know for sure that's not coming from my motor.
#116
Lexus Test Driver
Rechecked all my vacuum lines and everything seems to be tightened up correctly. I ended up drilling a small hole into the intake manifold and put a fitting with a vacuum line running to that BOV. The bov opens but not until I rev really high.
One concern I have... At idle the turbos aren't spinning. But with light throttle they do start spinning. Not sure if their bad already but I also notice that they blow a lot of oil and I know for sure that's not coming from my motor.
One concern I have... At idle the turbos aren't spinning. But with light throttle they do start spinning. Not sure if their bad already but I also notice that they blow a lot of oil and I know for sure that's not coming from my motor.
Also If your turbos arent spinning at idle, then that rough idle has to be coming from somewhere else. when they bent and put in your charge pipe from the turbos, did they replace the bung for the O2 sensor on the exhaust before the cat. I was looking at some of your earlier pics and it looks as though the stock setup must have been cut or moved. Until you read those codes, your car wont run smoothly.
My buddy has an OBD2 on dash gauge that gives him real time numbers of everything going on from oil temperature, water temp, AFR, and any potential codes that may pop up. If i get the name of it ill be sure to share it. It just sits on his dash constantly plugged in to the car. Kind of like an all in one gauge
EDIT! SCAN GUAGE, thats what its called. works well on his twin turbo GTO
Last edited by NYKnick101; 12-23-13 at 09:08 PM.
#117
Nothing was done to the o2 sensors. We didn't touch the cats in the headers. I didn't get a chance to run the codes but I'll be leaving the office early tomorrow and I'll be heading straight to the shop to get it checked out. I'm gonna put it on the rack as well to make sure there are no boost leaks under the car.
#118
How much pressure are those oil pumps running? Remember, the turbos only need ~40psi and anything north of 60psi you'll need a restrictor on the turbo oil inlet. If you're already seeing oil in your charge piping that may be causing MAF issues as well. Have you pulled it and inspected the hot wire? You can clean it by applying non-chlorinated brake cleaner to a q-tip and VERY gently using the q-tip to wipe the gunk off.
I wouldn't worry about the turbo's not spinning at idle that far back. Are they journal or BB?
Also, how much vacuum is your gauge showing at idle?
I wouldn't worry about the turbo's not spinning at idle that far back. Are they journal or BB?
Also, how much vacuum is your gauge showing at idle?
#119
How much pressure are those oil pumps running? Remember, the turbos only need ~40psi and anything north of 60psi you'll need a restrictor on the turbo oil inlet. If you're already seeing oil in your charge piping that may be causing MAF issues as well. Have you pulled it and inspected the hot wire? You can clean it by applying non-chlorinated brake cleaner to a q-tip and VERY gently using the q-tip to wipe the gunk off.
I wouldn't worry about the turbo's not spinning at idle that far back. Are they journal or BB?
Also, how much vacuum is your gauge showing at idle?
I wouldn't worry about the turbo's not spinning at idle that far back. Are they journal or BB?
Also, how much vacuum is your gauge showing at idle?
Boost gauge is showing around 17 hg at idle.
I believe the turbos are journal. I'll be getting the codes checked out today after work.
I checked the BOV yesterday but it only opens up when I rev really high. Not sure if that is normal.