IS300 Manual Transmission
03-10-03, 05:12 PM
#16
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Originally posted by Cleo
hey....i've got a 2003 manual...
pros:
1. more fun to drive
2. short throws
3. that's it...
cons:
1. one of the hardest manuals to master because you can never smoothly engage 1-2 or 2-3 ALL THE TIME. Due in part to something called the CDD, clutch dampening device.
2. clutch does some weird thing where it release slowly when engine is above 3500 rpm, again caused by CDD. Sometimes it doesn't even release at all and you're just burning the clutch.
3. clutch engagement is *somewhere* in the middle of the pedal movement...(sometimes i don't know where it is until, bam, the car lunges)
3. ABSOLUTELY NO CLUTCH FEEL
4. Makes a loud "thump" sound when selecting gears, unless you let the synchro-mesh gears have time to sync with the intermediate shaft by easing into a gear selection.
5. original text replaced with this: since the IS has an drive-by-wire system, throttle response is horrible...you notice it especially when trying to revmatch the engine and transmission....you have no "feel" for the accelerator and engine rpms...very odd car....
i drove a 328ci, not a 330ci, 2 years ago and it's 1000% better....so smooth and precise...those germans make excellent transmissions......
If i had to do it all over again, i'd would've went with the automatic. You MUST testdrive yourself....you can't go wrong with the auto, although i've heard that it's got quirks of its own. Take a manual for a very long drive...don't let the dealer talk to you while you're driving...listen for the thump....
Actually, if i had to do it all over again, i would've bought the 330i....BUT...didn't have the extra dinero...
BTW: the 2002 is300 is rated 2/5 by JD Power for initial mechanical quality. 2002 3-series was rated 4/5. so much for lexus reliability...
hey....i've got a 2003 manual...
pros:
1. more fun to drive
2. short throws
3. that's it...
cons:
1. one of the hardest manuals to master because you can never smoothly engage 1-2 or 2-3 ALL THE TIME. Due in part to something called the CDD, clutch dampening device.
2. clutch does some weird thing where it release slowly when engine is above 3500 rpm, again caused by CDD. Sometimes it doesn't even release at all and you're just burning the clutch.
3. clutch engagement is *somewhere* in the middle of the pedal movement...(sometimes i don't know where it is until, bam, the car lunges)
3. ABSOLUTELY NO CLUTCH FEEL
4. Makes a loud "thump" sound when selecting gears, unless you let the synchro-mesh gears have time to sync with the intermediate shaft by easing into a gear selection.
5. original text replaced with this: since the IS has an drive-by-wire system, throttle response is horrible...you notice it especially when trying to revmatch the engine and transmission....you have no "feel" for the accelerator and engine rpms...very odd car....
i drove a 328ci, not a 330ci, 2 years ago and it's 1000% better....so smooth and precise...those germans make excellent transmissions......
If i had to do it all over again, i'd would've went with the automatic. You MUST testdrive yourself....you can't go wrong with the auto, although i've heard that it's got quirks of its own. Take a manual for a very long drive...don't let the dealer talk to you while you're driving...listen for the thump....
Actually, if i had to do it all over again, i would've bought the 330i....BUT...didn't have the extra dinero...
BTW: the 2002 is300 is rated 2/5 by JD Power for initial mechanical quality. 2002 3-series was rated 4/5. so much for lexus reliability...
Secondly you can remove the Clutch Damping Device or CDD and replace it with a straight-through 10 mm brake line union. I got one for less that $6 at a NAPA store. I would not try to gut the parts from the inside CDD and use it because I found it almost impossible to bleed thoroughly due to its shape and high location in the clutch line. I don't know if removing the CDD would in fact void your warrantee but if you are concerned just keep the CDD handy, reinstall, and bleed it as best you can before making any claims.
Of the two modifications, I think the synthetic lube has the bigger effect.
06-29-09, 07:17 PM
#17
I have a 2002 Manual. There are a couple of things you can do to improve the transmission action. First replace the dinosaur based transmission lubricant with a synthetic such as Red Line MT-90. This will really smooth out the notchyness, particularly those first few shifts when the drive train is cold. The synthetic lubricant flows much more easily at low temps.
Secondly you can remove the Clutch Damping Device or CDD and replace it with a straight-through 10 mm brake line union. I got one for less that $6 at a NAPA store. I would not try to gut the parts from the inside CDD and use it because I found it almost impossible to bleed thoroughly due to its shape and high location in the clutch line. I don't know if removing the CDD would in fact void your warrantee but if you are concerned just keep the CDD handy, reinstall, and bleed it as best you can before making any claims.
Of the two modifications, I think the synthetic lube has the bigger effect.
Secondly you can remove the Clutch Damping Device or CDD and replace it with a straight-through 10 mm brake line union. I got one for less that $6 at a NAPA store. I would not try to gut the parts from the inside CDD and use it because I found it almost impossible to bleed thoroughly due to its shape and high location in the clutch line. I don't know if removing the CDD would in fact void your warrantee but if you are concerned just keep the CDD handy, reinstall, and bleed it as best you can before making any claims.
Of the two modifications, I think the synthetic lube has the bigger effect.
07-03-09, 02:41 AM
#18
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While we are on the subject of transmissions, does anyone know how much HP the automatic can handle? I wish to increase the power in my engine w.o going over the tranny's limit.
07-08-10, 10:45 AM
#19
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I have a 2002 Manual. There are a couple of things you can do to improve the transmission action. First replace the dinosaur based transmission lubricant with a synthetic such as Red Line MT-90. This will really smooth out the notchyness, particularly those first few shifts when the drive train is cold. The synthetic lubricant flows much more easily at low temps.
Secondly you can remove the Clutch Damping Device or CDD and replace it with a straight-through 10 mm brake line union. I got one for less that $6 at a NAPA store. I would not try to gut the parts from the inside CDD and use it because I found it almost impossible to bleed thoroughly due to its shape and high location in the clutch line. I don't know if removing the CDD would in fact void your warrantee but if you are concerned just keep the CDD handy, reinstall, and bleed it as best you can before making any claims.
Of the two modifications, I think the synthetic lube has the bigger effect.
Secondly you can remove the Clutch Damping Device or CDD and replace it with a straight-through 10 mm brake line union. I got one for less that $6 at a NAPA store. I would not try to gut the parts from the inside CDD and use it because I found it almost impossible to bleed thoroughly due to its shape and high location in the clutch line. I don't know if removing the CDD would in fact void your warrantee but if you are concerned just keep the CDD handy, reinstall, and bleed it as best you can before making any claims.
Of the two modifications, I think the synthetic lube has the bigger effect.
I have a 2004 manual with 142k now.
I removed the CCD as i didn't like the delay, the clutch would slip when I shifted because i hit the throttle before it allowed the clutch to engage... very weird.
And of course MT-90
I have used Redline in my manuals since about 1984 or 1985.
11-06-10, 08:55 AM
#22
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X2
I have a 2004 manual with 142k now.
I removed the CCD as i didn't like the delay, the clutch would slip when I shifted because i hit the throttle before it allowed the clutch to engage... very weird.
And of course MT-90
I have used Redline in my manuals since about 1984 or 1985.
I have a 2004 manual with 142k now.
I removed the CCD as i didn't like the delay, the clutch would slip when I shifted because i hit the throttle before it allowed the clutch to engage... very weird.
And of course MT-90
I have used Redline in my manuals since about 1984 or 1985.
I just got a manual IS300 and the first thing I noticed was the annoying "bump" when shifting. Is there a DIY anywhere for removing the CDD?
11-06-10, 11:23 AM
#23
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I put a plastic bag under the Fluid cap, top it up first. This stops the fluid from running out and Air entering the master cylinder side. Some people manage without, but I didn't need to bleed the system when I did mine.
Then you can undo the CDD and remove, insert the connector.
Remove the bag and any excess fluid. Done !!!
If you want a picture shout.
11-09-10, 03:56 PM
#26
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Its Simple enough, get a brake connector, I believe 1/8 size, I got mine from NAPA for about $2. (I prefer brass)
I put a plastic bag under the Fluid cap, top it up first. This stops the fluid from running out and Air entering the master cylinder side. Some people manage without, but I didn't need to bleed the system when I did mine.
Then you can undo the CDD and remove, insert the connector.
Remove the bag and any excess fluid. Done !!!
If you want a picture shout.
I put a plastic bag under the Fluid cap, top it up first. This stops the fluid from running out and Air entering the master cylinder side. Some people manage without, but I didn't need to bleed the system when I did mine.
Then you can undo the CDD and remove, insert the connector.
Remove the bag and any excess fluid. Done !!!
If you want a picture shout.
Thanks, I'm going to try it this week sometime. Also, what do you mean by putting a plastic bag under the cap? Does the cap itself not create an air-tight seal?
11-09-10, 07:41 PM
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No the cap is vented, so add fluid and seal with a plastic bag, this gives two layers of polythene, and fluid will not run out, I use this on my brakes when I work on them as well.
11-11-10, 10:31 AM
#28
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Thanks! Took maybe 10 min from start to finish and was able to do it during lunch. Looking forward to a much better drive home!
12-20-10, 02:27 PM
#30
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Thank you for the info guys... finnaly someone mentioned about the lexus is300 manual trans. I own a is300 myself and gosh the trans sucks. Changing from first-second gear is a BiTc#..ha ha.. I love my is300 though I wish I chose the auto version. But after changing the manual trans fluid to REDLINE- MT 90 (recently replace). I've notice big difference. Shifting gears from 1-2 is much smoother. I have not remove my CCD as far as I know. So guys heres my question, how did the transmition felt after the CCD removed? LMK guys would gladly appreciate it. Thanks you..