Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Correction, Innovative recommends the sensor be located 24" downstream; I was probably thinking 16-18", like I had it set on my turbo setup. The closer to the engine, the shorter the sensor life...but the more accurate the readings are. I'd place it where the manufacturer recommends though.

nikogio38

Will do...lol

nikogio38

Changed my mind I decided to go with Coolingmist CMGS Pro Meth kit...I think gauge that comes with it makes a better deal than the Snow Performance. .the gauge displays vacuum/boost and volume of meth going through the nozzle. Anyone need a Snow performance progressive diesel kit stage 1 (it would have worked for what I needed called the 375 nozzle was within HP power range, for less HP just needs different nozzle).

nikogio38

Update I'm changing my BOV to the Tials new QRJ if you find my posting of. SYNAPSE ENGINEERING I've been trying to gets parts from them for 3 weeks now with out any luck
Im trying to recirculate the BOV. Im ordering it from Vividracing should be on order tomorrow! Lets see if it out performs the Synapse

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

But why recirculate? Are you having issues with an open-to-atmposhere setup?

nikogio38

Im have the issue with the car shutting off when I try to come to a sudden doest happen often but rpms go low then come up to normal when coming to a stop. Gotta keep the MAF happy!!

mikellucci

iTrader: (56)

I feel like a broken record talking about this stuff but my $.02 is don't recirculate. Get your blowoff valve dialed in with the correct spring pressure. If it's a synapse you need to remove the spring and run the vacuum line on the bottom port (search our old posts but I'm rather certain it's bottom port only).

The valve should stay a few millimeters open at Idle to prevent the issue that you're experiencing. The car will idle 100% stable and blow off perfectly at all psi if you run the bov correctly and your maf is proper distance from both the TB and bov.

If you elect to go with the Tial it's a great valve but you will have to figure out proper spring to use as well as port configuration. Recirculating on top of all that is just another added variable of complexity.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Fully agree. I remember on my Honda having to add an additional spring into the Greddy BOV to hold the boost wiithout pre-maturely bleeding out. But perhaps the opposite for you is needed...no spring?

nikogio38

Update on progress... I will not being getting a Borla exhaust refunded twice from two different company’s was hoping to get the discontinued exhaust before all were gone but isn’t going happen unless someone on here wants to sell there’s. I have the ngk afx already I’m waiting on my Coolingmist water meth kit and Tial QRJ to come in once I have those parts I'll get them installed. I’ll see what the smaller 2.25" pulley can do on the dyno...last week when it was on the dyno the car hit 5.8 psi before the cars AFR was nearing 14 and the cars knock kicked in and closed throttle. I also will be running a smaller pulley probably 2 months from now I got a machine shop making me a 2.10" pulley 3-4 weeks on that and 2-3 weeks to wait for the pulley to get Sur Grip coated hoped this will help with any belt slip I might have with such a small pulley. I’m shooting for 7 psi

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^What about a Joe Z dual exhaust? Or do you have another idea on a TRUE dual setup?

heyarms

iTrader: (5)

I'm confused why you're running into issues with the boost level you're at I know first hand 7.5psi is fine on my 250, and the 350 boosted two, they run fine there too. Have you talked to them or do you know what the issue is?

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^The A/F readings were taken from a dyno "sniffer" at the exhaust tailpipe; FAR from accurate readings.

nikogio38

Yea I couldn’t tell the reason either..... I went down to the shop they showed me the dyno pulls on the computer and you can see the AFR drastically spike up then HP/TQ took a big dive which I’m sure was the car detecting knock. Maybe next week I’ll get it back on the dyno and see if it doing the same.

heyarms

iTrader: (5)

Yeah but he said the car had issues.

Are you/they still not putting miles on the car when swapping pulleys/resetting the Ecu? That is somewhat important to do. The car will act weird at first pull after reset without a good amount of miles being driven.

nikogio38

I picked up my car this Monday haven’t had time to drive it around much but I figure when I bring the car back it will probably have 150 miles on it.