acute stalling issue. exhausted solutions. please help.
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acute stalling issue. exhausted solutions. please help.
1999 GS300
When my car has reached operating temps, whenever I am driving, if I hit a hard sudden stop, my car surges and either wants to stall or does stall unless I feather the gas. Mind this does not happen until I after warm up. Up until that point the car will not drop RPMs below idle which is about 700. My idling is pretty steady and normal. This issue has gone from a minor surging once in a while to a clockwork issue after warm up. From a complete cold start in winter weather I get very sluggish response until the car warms up.
It does not throw a code whatsoever. Zilch.
I have done the following:
Taken off and cleaned TB
Changed plugs and wires
Cleaned original MAF and also replaced with another working used one
Ran vehicle without MAF - still stalls
Replaced PCV valve
Cleaned OCV solenoid filter
Unplugged TPS and it still will stall in limp mode at a hard stop
Unplugged IAC (throttle motor) and still stalls in limp mode
I have yet to replace ignition coils or 02 sensors as they are expensive to just run around throwing money on, and I have yet to justify doing so without a code. But those are possibilities no?
I also just picked up the my car from the shop and they were of no help and could not figure it out. They serve free diagnostics, but I they looked slammed and so I think they just didn't really try because it wasn't economical to do so when they had other cars piled up. Plus I have had issues with them needing me to bring my car in twice to observe that my water pump was bad despite the fact that belts were squeeling and the bearing was shot. They basically changed a tensioner pulley for no reason before they figured that issue out. So I have very little faith in their competence.
I'm starting to look towards break booster and vac lines? Could that do this?
I'm really not sure where to go with this. I would really appreciate some insight. If there is any other information I can provide please let me know.
When my car has reached operating temps, whenever I am driving, if I hit a hard sudden stop, my car surges and either wants to stall or does stall unless I feather the gas. Mind this does not happen until I after warm up. Up until that point the car will not drop RPMs below idle which is about 700. My idling is pretty steady and normal. This issue has gone from a minor surging once in a while to a clockwork issue after warm up. From a complete cold start in winter weather I get very sluggish response until the car warms up.
It does not throw a code whatsoever. Zilch.
I have done the following:
Taken off and cleaned TB
Changed plugs and wires
Cleaned original MAF and also replaced with another working used one
Ran vehicle without MAF - still stalls
Replaced PCV valve
Cleaned OCV solenoid filter
Unplugged TPS and it still will stall in limp mode at a hard stop
Unplugged IAC (throttle motor) and still stalls in limp mode
I have yet to replace ignition coils or 02 sensors as they are expensive to just run around throwing money on, and I have yet to justify doing so without a code. But those are possibilities no?
I also just picked up the my car from the shop and they were of no help and could not figure it out. They serve free diagnostics, but I they looked slammed and so I think they just didn't really try because it wasn't economical to do so when they had other cars piled up. Plus I have had issues with them needing me to bring my car in twice to observe that my water pump was bad despite the fact that belts were squeeling and the bearing was shot. They basically changed a tensioner pulley for no reason before they figured that issue out. So I have very little faith in their competence.
I'm starting to look towards break booster and vac lines? Could that do this?
I'm really not sure where to go with this. I would really appreciate some insight. If there is any other information I can provide please let me know.
Last edited by 2haloz; 12-05-14 at 11:03 PM.
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Yes I can make it throw a code and light up CEL if I for example unhook TPS and start the car. It has been hooked up to an OBD scanner and there are no codes.
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OK. So I have made a discovery and would like to know if this could be the culprit...
When I'm under the hood and hit the throttle cable, I get a loud clear hissing sound. Its not intermittent. Every time. It is coming from somewhere around between the throttle body and ABS unit. Trying to figure out if this is maybe a gasket. I for sure have a leaky valve cover. But this sounds like its coming off of a hose.
Could this cause stalling at hard stops? I would imagine a leak would create an issue regardless of the car being warmed up or not? Or would the logic be that during warm up loop ECU is telling it what to do, and then after warm up the car relies in sensors thus the leak then creating an issue?
When I'm under the hood and hit the throttle cable, I get a loud clear hissing sound. Its not intermittent. Every time. It is coming from somewhere around between the throttle body and ABS unit. Trying to figure out if this is maybe a gasket. I for sure have a leaky valve cover. But this sounds like its coming off of a hose.
Could this cause stalling at hard stops? I would imagine a leak would create an issue regardless of the car being warmed up or not? Or would the logic be that during warm up loop ECU is telling it what to do, and then after warm up the car relies in sensors thus the leak then creating an issue?
Last edited by 2haloz; 12-06-14 at 07:18 PM.
#7
Its one issue. Stalling at hard stops after warming up. This list is all things I have tried to do to fix the issue.
Yes I can make it throw a code and light up CEL if I for example unhook TPS and start the car. It has been hooked up to an OBD scanner and there are no codes.
Yes I can make it throw a code and light up CEL if I for example unhook TPS and start the car. It has been hooked up to an OBD scanner and there are no codes.
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I know I for sure have a leak. It hisses pretty loud when I hit the throttle cable. But my car is more prone to idle low so I'm having a hard time understanding how this could be a vacuum issue. However if I reset the ECU it idles extremely high (2k range in park) until I restart the car. Then at that point maybe ECU idles lower to compensate perhaps? When I changed out my plugs they were fouled and black on the tips which leads me to believe the car was running lean.
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Screw it. I'm obviously not competent enough to figure this out. Dropping it off at Stevenson Toyota today. I'll report what they find when they are done for the future if somebody else experiences a similar issue. I'm interested to know how far off the mark any of my conjectures are.
#12
Look up the "rough idle issue" thread in the 2GS section. Although your car seems to not be throwing codes which is crazy. I swear mine will throw a code for my drink being empty.
My car had a similar issue (granted it through a code) and it was the oil control valve (VVTi solenoid). Once the car was warm and I came to a stop or just in a lower rpm range it would stumble and misfire (and throw a CEL). Usually it throws misfire codes and timing codes. I could unplug the solenoid and drive the car around just fine (with only the code for the sensor not being plugged in). Anyway, it was like 90 bucks to my door for the part.
Just a thought.
My car had a similar issue (granted it through a code) and it was the oil control valve (VVTi solenoid). Once the car was warm and I came to a stop or just in a lower rpm range it would stumble and misfire (and throw a CEL). Usually it throws misfire codes and timing codes. I could unplug the solenoid and drive the car around just fine (with only the code for the sensor not being plugged in). Anyway, it was like 90 bucks to my door for the part.
Just a thought.
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Well my transmission theory held up. It's the torque converter lock up solenoid. It doesn't want to let go when it comes to a fast stop. And it's not going to be as simple as replacing the TC.
They said depending on how bad the actual transmission is they could possibly just do the TC, but most likely its going to need another tranny.
I could get a used one, but by the time I pay for that with labor etc, I may as well swap. I guess 2jzgte here I come. I'll just have to feather around town until I can afford it.
They said depending on how bad the actual transmission is they could possibly just do the TC, but most likely its going to need another tranny.
I could get a used one, but by the time I pay for that with labor etc, I may as well swap. I guess 2jzgte here I come. I'll just have to feather around town until I can afford it.
Last edited by 2haloz; 12-08-14 at 03:25 PM.
#14
all the solenoids are relatively easy to change. i dont know which one is the "lock up solenoid" though. i guess i got some reading to do cause my car recently started not downshifting to first gear smoothly. a little hesitation
http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/q...8980/large.jpg
http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/q...8980/large.jpg
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all the solenoids are relatively easy to change. i dont know which one is the "lock up solenoid" though. i guess i got some reading to do cause my car recently started not downshifting to first gear smoothly. a little hesitation
http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/q...8980/large.jpg
http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/q...8980/large.jpg
Thus leading me to believe this is mechanical. I might try pulling the pan cleaning it out, seeing what's in there... Flush it a couple times with new ATF and see if that gets things moving.
This was suggested by another member. I hope he's right. I can get a used tranny for 3 or 4 hundred and find somebody to pop it in or do it myself at worst. Aren't these transmissions supposed to be buller proof?