Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL

Its time for me to be completely honest.
The tuner interaction I had with OV was absolute utter garbage. I was constantly ignored and had to beg for updates. 3 months and after about a dozen maps I’ve only got a peak of 19 psi. The only reason I bought the OV tune was for 20+ psi and a raised rev limiter which was never done. OV tuning is the worse tuning company I’ve ever had experience with. They’re marketing up to 24+ psi and a raised rev limiter, something OV absolutely doesn’t have. To be further clear, I feel like I got robbed $799. OV won’t even work on my tune any further...

I personally think TTI might have the better tune now that stage two + is here. Even though I think the gains should be a little higher...

What I’ve noticed when using the BMS powerbox ontop of a reflash is that it tends to make the turbo peak at a much lower rpm range (2/4k) whereas when only using a reflash, boost peaks in the higher rpm range (4/5k)

Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL

Thats not my point... to run the modified turbo it’s required to run FBO, FMIC, throttle body and you have to buy a second oem turbo because the turbo mod is permanent.

That leave us with 2 choices. (Pure speculation)

Stage two + $1500.00 for 260whp
or
Stage three $3000 or more for 350whp +

Bravo on marketing on Tony’s behalf because he’s definitely got us lined up lol. Either way I’m still a huge fan of TTI because it’s all him or nothing. My point being is that either we are stuck with 260whp or have to dive in 3,000 USD deep just to get 350+whp.

Like I said I believe our platform can do 300whp/fbo without a modified turbo, this is where my frustration lays lol

Originally Posted by Sheddy

Thanks for letting us know, I will be removing OV's information from this thread.

Originally Posted by Nuke

as usual always aggressive with your response to people relax buddy we all want more

considering our options at the moment TTi is the best and they are doing better with time, there are allot of upgrades coming up which i cannot share the info of as am merely a test user but i will say this...300whp+ wont be a challange at all ver soon stay tuned

Originally Posted by Sheddy

Tony shared this screenshot with me. TTI is using the Techstream system which is what the dealership uses to do system checks, updates and also list some important engine parameters. These values are at 39MPH @ 2713RPM with Stage 2 +


83MPH @ 5410RPM




Techstream Diagnosis
Using the Techstream the technician can monitor the specific data lines that allow them to see what is happening in the turbocharger system. The data lines listed below are data that is directly related to the turbocharger system and should be used during the diagnosis of the turbocharger system.

Intake Air Temperature B1S1 (Turbo) – Intake temperature coming from the No. 1 Turbo Pressure Sensor located in the intake manifold. This sensor reports the intake air temperature after going through the intercooler. Can be used to diagnose intercooler efficiency. Wastegate Valve Control Duty Ratio – Target duty cycle that the VRV is receiving from the ECM to control the wastegate valve actuator.

Intercooler Water Pump Speed – The RPM of the intercooler water pump. The intercooler water pump can range from 2,000 to 7,000 RPM’s when operating.

Target Boost Pressure – The intake air pressure that the ECM is trying to receive from the turbocharger system. This data list item is labeled in absolute PSI reading. Therefore the technicians will see a target boost of close to 15 PSI when the vehicle is at idle. This is a normal condition, because atmospheric pressure is close to 15 PSI absolute. During boost conditions under WOT, the target boost will reach approximately 30 PSI, which means the ECM is requesting the maximum boost pressure of 17.4 PSI from the turbocharger system. 30-12.6= 17.4 PSI STOCK

Boost Pressure Sensor - The absolute pressure inside the intercooler. This pressure reading comes from the No. 2 Turbo Pressure Sensor. The data list item is also read in absolute PSI.

If we calculate according to this write up we will get these values for Stage 2 +

Target boost pressure
2713 RPM 33.72-12.6=21.12 PSI
5410 RPM 34.66-12.6= 22.06 PSI

For those who would say that barometric pressure should be at 14.7 PSI then
30-14.7= 15.3 PSI Stock
33.72-14.7=19.02 PSI Stage 2 + @ 2713 RPM
34.6-14.7= 19.9 PSI Stage 2 + @ 5410 RPM
We are still seeing an increase of +4 PSI with Stage 2 +

Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL

I would probably remove OV myself if I could just because he’s damn cocky and misleading. however I can say my current OV tune would still give TTI stage two + a good fight. To bad I had to stalk Matt 100 times just to get it... OV is still a tune but I still never got 20+ psi barometric or a raised rev limiter.

Question, does anyone know the difference between barometric boost pressure and absolute pressure?
It looks like Tony quotes absolute pressure however absolute pressure isn’t going to give you the same boost reading as a traditional boost pressure gauge (the standard barometric). Absolute pressure doesnt take into account any kind of obstruction restricting flow (air duct, tubing, piping, intercooler) As an example if absolute pressure is adjusted to 20 psi your real barometric boost pressure is really probably 18psi. I hope you guys will attempt to google barometric pressure vs absolute pressure and try to understand it. It can be confusing

Originally Posted by Zahabriel

what’s the stage3 you mention dude ? hehehe is that a Tony secret weapon mark3?
about my rc200t its so slow like a turtle during a trackday its not what other ppl expect when they
see the rc agressive shape it looks like a 300+whp sport car ..... wait back to the reality
its just a toad or even slow like a turtle.

Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL

i was just assuming Tti would call it stage three (modified turbo, FMIC, big throttle body, fbo) which was rumored to me by tony. Could be good for 350-400whp...

Originally Posted by Sheddy

I did a post a while back on this.

Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL

Target boost pressure
2713 RPM 33.72-12.6=21.12 PSI
5410 RPM 34.66-12.6= 22.06 PSI

For those who would say that barometric pressure should be at 14.7 PSI then
30-14.7= 15.3 PSI Stock
33.72-14.7=19.02 PSI Stage 2 + @ 2713 RPM
34.6-14.7= 19.9 PSI Stage 2 + @ 5410 RPM
We are still seeing an increase of +4 PSI withStage 2 +


Exactly! I mean why would we even talk absolute pressure. Everyone in the world that uses a boost gauge is using the barometric system not absolute pressure. Absolute pressure is super misleading because it doesn’t even calculate any kind of obstruction restricting flow like turbo piping or an intercooler so even basing a calculation on absolute pressure alone would be inaccurate which, in return throws off the barometric calculation.

I just want want to point this out really quick. N20 bmws hold 18.5 psi on 5.5k rpm and make 300 whp. How it the hell are we doing only 260 whp at 19.9psi at 5.4k rpm barometric.

I personally think these calculations you provided are somehow inaccurate. Tony gave you this information?

Originally Posted by Zahabriel

U put my life in danger sheddy....just becoz of this trend
... the credit card statement arrived today and there was a question
from my wife “what and who did u send xxxx usd to?” and in the credit card statement is clearly mention
“TTITONY” luciky tony is still a man name hahaha anyway next time tony should also offer life insurnace
package along with his products Lol.

Originally Posted by Sheddy

Its not just the size of the turbo, the BMW N20 motor is just more powerful. I did those calculations on my own based off the information on the techstream screenshot, hey i could be wrong.

Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL

TTI claims 3-4 psi over stock with the stage two reflash, sounds amazing! Loving all the much needed engine/throttle tuning finally bringing it up to par...

I was looking into our internals aluminum alloy pistons, high-strength steel connecting rods, forged steel crankshaft and cast iron bore liners. Almost identical to the 328i (N20B20A) instead it appears the n20 uses a iron coated cylinder bore, they do this by electric arc wire spray. Different from our cast iron liners which are fused by irregular ('spiney type') surfaces on the casting exteriors providing better adhesion between the solid cast iron liners and cylinder block. Also the 328i is matching the 8arfts at 17 stock psi peak boost. A few other differences would be the bore and stroke, the 8AR FTS uses a 86.0mm bore and 86.0mm stroke whereas the 328i uses 84mm bore and 90.1mm stroke. The n20 crankshaft is made by die-casting steel which means its brought to a liquid state then cased into a mold, ill explain. Die-casting (liquefying) steel requires other metals like alloys such as aluminum, zinc, copper and magnesium which in theory gives you weaker' steel, not to mention porosity and cavity defects. In forging, steel is heated, often to very high temperatures, but remains solid then by physical force molded. Forgings can be made from steel and titanium that are not possible in die casting due to melt temperatures. We have basically the same internals however we have stronger solid cast iron bore liners, a more balanced bore x stroke, 1 extra cc and a stronger fully forged steel crank shaft. Super good, figuring most turbo engine platforms don't have forged internals, for example the Focus St. Some very reputable tuning companies involved with the 328I are pushing 6 psi boost over stock, with stock internals. It's going to be interesting seeing where we end up with the 8AR-FTS engine... Thank god we have TTI helping us!

Originally Posted by Sheddy

I understand what you’re saying, but I still say they are 2 completely different motor designs. The BMW still uses an air to air intercooler, their turbo layout and manifold design is different, their fuel injection system is different etc.
BMW’s are underrated from the factory and sorry to say, but even the 320i with a tune still makes more than our 8AR.