Performance Forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

IS200t tune

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Old 12-28-17 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by daniellina
Ok Buddie let me explain what happened. a tuner with more than 20 years of experience told me that back pressure from exhaust will actually let the car make more torque true or not idk that is what he told me. when i drove the car when i had it with the catless downpipe and straight piped all the way back.it felt like less torquey than when i installed an axleback after.i bovioustly did not loose any back pressure from installing an axleback i did not write that. i think you got it wrong
Btw what mods do you have on your car and do you have any dynosheets we would like as much information and feedback as we can here. Thanks!
Your tuner was right... on NA cars.
Now when you say "straight piped" you mean ALL the way back. You never said that the first go-around. I was confused because when you initially said "straight piped" that usually means you replaced one of your cats with a "straight pipe" in older hot rod circles, not all the way back including mufflers and resonators.
And I stand by what I said, which was on a turbocharged car, if you had ZERO restrictions after your turbo, AND you were tuned for THAT airflow, there's NO WAY you're gaining torque by adding more restrictions without a retune. Even if you did retune for the added axle back you still wouldn't gain anything; if anything you'd be slowing your spool-up times a tad. There's no dyno in the world that would make me believe otherwise, sorry brother. Not trying to step on any toes, but I too have been turning wrenches since around 1998, and I went to college for it as well.
As far as my mods I have a decent amount, but some of it's secret as I still race, but I can tell you I can break my slicks on the left hand side of this picture loose with ease. I've been working on this car since 2005.
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Old 12-28-17 | 11:26 AM
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If you want to pep that turbo IS up, I'd keep any cats past the downpipe itself (assuming there is one) install a catless DP, keep the factory axle back, add these two items, THEN have it dyno tuned and call it a day.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=D.O.T.+Drag+Radial+2&sidewall=Painted%20White%20Letters&partnum=445R7DR2&tab=Sizes (hoosier dot drag radial 2, in 245/45-17)

https://www.alkycontrol.com/

Though when driving a tuned forced induction car, I'd find a scanner and install it so you can constantly monitor things like coolant temps and knock retard, so you know what's going on.

Edit: If you can't find a tuner that can dyno tune a meth kit, buy a set of spare 17" rims (providing they clear your brakes, which I'm sure they can) install those hoosiers unless your AWD (then just go to pilot super sports on all 4 corners) throw a catless dp on there and order a tune from OV or RR racing along with some weight saving mods like light weight rims (16" OZ Ultraleggeras are 14.7lbs each) and I bet she'll run great. If I were to tune a turbo Lexus I'd ask the tuners to see if they could throw me a race gas tune as well for the weekends. (like vp racing's ms109 or sunocos ss100)

Last edited by Buddiiee; 12-28-17 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 12-28-17 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by daniellina
Hey! lets see what happens we just got to be straight with the posts and try to help as much as we can!.
You are also one of the most active members that contributes a lot.

Am all about help and sharing, but some members of this wonderful community are just purely grim about everything that people are trying/sharing, unless things are happening based on their liking/preference.

Anyhow this needs to stop or else most active members are gonna get fed up with this negativity, and am not talking about myself just to be clear.
Old 12-28-17 | 12:30 PM
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So guys I don’t know but do mustang dynos read lower than a dynojet? 295.3 wtq on a mustang dyno sounds like well over 300wtq on a dynojet. I just wonder why this particular test map hasn’t been available even though it was leaked almost a year ago
Old 12-28-17 | 12:44 PM
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Got my new regulator in. I asked the parts sales rep at the dealer if this was a new batch (revised) and he was clueless. From what I observed is that it’s now called “Electric pressure TR” instead of a vacuum regulator valve, so I am hoping this is a revised one.
Old 12-28-17 | 12:47 PM
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Old 12-28-17 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheddy




how much they charged you? the first two cost me around $110 third one cost me $180. i wanted to slap somebody
Old 12-28-17 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricoo
how much they charged you? the first two cost me around $110 third one cost me $180. i wanted to slap somebody
https://www.discountpartsmonster.com...MzYwNSZyPTg%3D
Old 12-28-17 | 02:20 PM
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Cut the old one up and see if you can identify what the problem is. is it gummed up? deposits? something sticking? I would love to find out
Old 12-28-17 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricoo
how much they charged you? the first two cost me around $110 third one cost me $180. i wanted to slap somebody
That’s where I got mine from. I am able to pick it up since it’s not too far from my house in Ft Lauderdale. Came up to $108.51 with taxes
Old 12-28-17 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheddy
Got my new regulator in. I asked the parts sales rep at the dealer if this was a new batch (revised) and he was clueless. From what I observed is that it’s now called “Electric pressure TR” instead of a vacuum regulator valve, so I am hoping this is a revised one.
The new one I hot is also in the same white box but still made in Germany like the one you received, I think usually when a part is revised they add some number there to identify that, maybe they used color box coding system :P
Old 12-28-17 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheddy
That’s where I got mine from. I am able to pick it up since it’s not too far from my house in Ft Lauderdale. Came up to $108.51 with taxes
You can find it much cheaper I got mine for 52$Guys PM me if ur interested Because am not if I can share a link.
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Old 12-29-17 | 10:46 AM
  #2233  
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Originally Posted by E46CT
Cut the old one up and see if you can identify what the problem is. is it gummed up? deposits? something sticking? I would love to find out
Yea, I’ll do some digging and see what I can find. I know under the cylinder cap there’s a little foam filter, but I tried to clean it and it was giving the same issue.

Originally Posted by Nuke
The new one I hot is also in the same white box but still made in Germany like the one you received, I think usually when a part is revised they add some number there to identify that, maybe they used color box coding system :P
Perhaps the different box and different name could be the newer version. Let’s see how long it last.
Old 12-29-17 | 11:23 PM
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i have the same noise on that side too. i thought it was normal because of my after market intake. is there something wrong with this?
Old 12-29-17 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by UngBuck
i have the same noise on that side too. i thought it was normal because of my after market intake. is there something wrong with this?
Take a video for us we might be able to help, it could be a busted solenoid


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