Pacific13

I read this thread from the beginning and may be it was already stated but I wish to know how the various modes are managed (eco, normal, sport & sport+) Is the stage 1 take into consideration this differents modes ? If yes, how?
On the other hand, in Europe we have the Start/Stop system which cannot be cancel with Techstream, is this system remain in use with stage 1?
At least, could I have some details regarding the TCM tune management.

I will contact Tony to have further informations particularly for the European model with RON 98 fuel (equivalent US 94) and if the Internet connection is still necessary for flashing. (And for the cost , of course

busy0201

Please, post the info that get here. I'm want to know also all of this information. I'm also from Europa...

Aslo, if someone can translate your dyno result into European measure ?

Nuke

Check this out guys Greddy Sirius


Toyota CHR

TTITony

Hello

The driving mode eco/normal/sport it just the shift timing control, While the shift timing is from the load parameters(throttle angle/RPM/acceleration value...etc).

Regarding the start/stop system same many Asian countries use that and Including my IS200T too(Euro type) , I am looking for a solution to remove it.

While the transmission tune is optimized for the shift timing between normal and sports mode it's more flexible than normal mode when you select "normal".

Our team has finished MY17 IS200T Fsport Euro type stage 1 and stage 2(*1) on June 2nd and you can refer the dyno graph as follows.
*Stage 2 with downpipe and intake kit.

Sheddy

From my understanding the different modes just adjust the throttle and transmission shift points. ECO is set for efficiency, Normal is self explanatory and Sport gives you a more aggressive shifting and tightens up the steering (Sport + stiffens up the suspension). The re-flash tune works fine for all 3 modes.

Nuke

absloutly correct as the actual boost/timing/IG and power related tables are set in seprate tables and are not affected by the driving mode

zhifan1

Just want to know is it at all possible to achieve the above said steage 2 tune results without installing the downpipe and intake kit? and if not, what are the numbers for stage 2 tune without downpipe and intake kit? Asking because of warranty issues.

gbgary

there's one person here with stage 2 w/o downpipe but he's not talking about it yet. there are no published numbers with this set-up...yet.

Sheddy

The Stage 2 was developed with the down pipe application due to the higher boost level as well as exhaust gas temperature. It has been done with out the down pipe, but for the real power increase you will need it. Stage 1 will give you a nice power increase over stock and you can leave all the stock engine components.

OEM/ Stage 1- Stock motor w/K&N drop in filter
Stage 2- K&N drop in filter and Down pipe

For those who are questioning about only a "3WHP increase" from stage 1 to 2, you have to be able to read a dyno curve. I set the marker at 4500RPM to show the gain for Stage 2 and there was a + 30.56WHP from stock and +22.09WHP from Stage 1. Torque + 35.67WTQ from stock and + 25.8WTQ from Stage 1.

Peak numbers didn't change drastically, but power over the RPM range is where this re-flash comes into play. Stage 1 vs Stock, you can see that the tune HP and TQ lines stay above stock, this is the increase of the overall power output.

E46CT

So our cars make 253/286 crank hp/tq stock? Lets say 250/285? I mean it's hard to say since I don't know what type of dyno machine that is. DD, DJ, etc. Seems the car may be underrated though @ 241/258. It would be interesting to see what effect, if any, a K&N drop in has on both stock and tuned.

Nuke

I believe these are Dynojet charts so your correct about the power at crank

Sheddy

Those results are from a Dynojet on 93oct (listed on the top of the graph) . I was actually surprised with the stock outcome as well.

gbgary

that last chart shows 220/249 stock. what are you guys looking at?

Sheddy

Those are the numbers to the wheel, so he is calculating crank power numbers which is what the manufacturer use.

gbgary

the 15% rule. sounds like 10% is more accurate if 241 is to be believed.