ThrottleBody ByPass: Done
#1
Lexus Champion
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Credit: ANH 110%
These are not directions - I got those from bananaGS's Page.
MY WRITE UP simply relays my experience by following those directions.
I am waiting on some pictures to be sent to me, at which point I will post a couple of them here, as well as all of them on my TB Page.
These are not directions - I got those from bananaGS's Page.
MY WRITE UP simply relays my experience by following those directions.
I am waiting on some pictures to be sent to me, at which point I will post a couple of them here, as well as all of them on my TB Page.
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#4
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Originally posted by jmecbr900
Do you notice a difference?
Do you notice a difference?
Others have mentioned positive results months down the road:
Originally posted by HI98GS
I have done this mod about 4-5 months ago and I feel it works very well.
I have done this mod about 4-5 months ago and I feel it works very well.
The others who have done it, the links on Anh's site, DO have dynos proving the gain - I know that doesn't translate to our cars, but nonetheless,
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Every little bit helps!
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#5
Lexus Test Driver
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Dex,
Nice job and nice write up.
This weekend I am installing my intake by K&N. I will probably have to clean up the throttle body and plan on replacing my OEM battery as well since I have to remove the negative terminal.
Was wondering why you chose the yellow top optima. Is that the best battery suited for our cars? I find myself in the same position you are and would like to knock both these upgrades out during the same time.
Is the battery tray something I need to buy or it comes with the battery. Any place where you recommend to buy from?
Thanks in advance
Drew
Nice job and nice write up.
This weekend I am installing my intake by K&N. I will probably have to clean up the throttle body and plan on replacing my OEM battery as well since I have to remove the negative terminal.
Was wondering why you chose the yellow top optima. Is that the best battery suited for our cars? I find myself in the same position you are and would like to knock both these upgrades out during the same time.
Is the battery tray something I need to buy or it comes with the battery. Any place where you recommend to buy from?
Thanks in advance
Drew
#6
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Originally posted by DrewGS4
Was wondering why you chose the yellow top optima. Is that the best battery suited for our cars?
Was wondering why you chose the yellow top optima. Is that the best battery suited for our cars?
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The Yellow Tops can be drained fully ans still start your car. I don't drain it, but I don't drive my car everyday either to recharge it, so I wanted something with the deep cycle capability.
AutoZone and Advance AP I think carry the Optimas now in their stores.
DaveGS4 & I bought ours at the same time, so Dave worked out a deal for us to get them at a discount. I think retail is in excess of $100
Quite honestly, I think the Optimas are Interstate batteries rebadged - Interstate is the brand/manf that owns Optima. Look into that a little first. Interstate makes a deep cycle, and should be cheaper.
Originally posted by DrewGS4
Is the battery tray something I need to buy or it comes with the battery. Any place where you recommend to buy from?
Is the battery tray something I need to buy or it comes with the battery. Any place where you recommend to buy from?
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HTH
#7
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Dex,
I took some pictures on how to knock the PVC locking valve out, but don't know where I put them,
so I drew this picture for you.
this is how I do it, take lesser than a min to force it out. I like the PVC valve because it's metal, better build than the plastic pipe
I took some pictures on how to knock the PVC locking valve out, but don't know where I put them,
so I drew this picture for you.
this is how I do it, take lesser than a min to force it out. I like the PVC valve because it's metal, better build than the plastic pipe
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Last edited by BananaGS; 06-10-03 at 12:16 PM.
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#8
Lexus Champion
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Originally posted by BananaGS
Dex,
I took some pictures on how to knock the PVC locking valve out, but don't know where I put them,
so I drew this picture for you.
this is how I do it, take lesser than a min to force it out. I like the PVC valve because it's metal, better build than the plastic pipe
Dex,
I took some pictures on how to knock the PVC locking valve out, but don't know where I put them,
so I drew this picture for you.
this is how I do it, take lesser than a min to force it out. I like the PVC valve because it's metal, better build than the plastic pipe
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I'm not worried at all about the nylon pipe - its plenty sturdy. Didn't you know nylon -> weight reduction = JDM?!
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Oh well - I got it done!
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#10
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I decided this weekend to do the bypass after changing the fuel filer. In the process I noticed that the brass fitting on the bottom of the throttle body would probably fit as the reduction fitting between the supply and return lines. And don’t ya know it did and I didn’t need any other hose clamps other than the OEM ones. No leaks! Just thought you would like to know…http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/coolant_bypass
See the pic it's the fifth one down.
See the pic it's the fifth one down.
Last edited by SRQ400; 07-08-03 at 12:19 PM.
#11
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Originally posted by SRQ400
I decided this weekend to do the bypass after changing the fuel filer. In the process I noticed that the brass fitting on the bottom of the throttle body would probably fit as the reduction fitting between the supply and return lines. And don’t ya know it did and I didn’t need any other hose clamps other than the OEM ones. No leaks! Just thought you would like to know…http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/coolant_bypass
See the pic it's the fifth one down.
I decided this weekend to do the bypass after changing the fuel filer. In the process I noticed that the brass fitting on the bottom of the throttle body would probably fit as the reduction fitting between the supply and return lines. And don’t ya know it did and I didn’t need any other hose clamps other than the OEM ones. No leaks! Just thought you would like to know…http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/coolant_bypass
See the pic it's the fifth one down.
#13
Pole Position
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Originally posted by SRQ400
I decided this weekend to do the bypass after changing the fuel filer. In the process I noticed that the brass fitting on the bottom of the throttle body would probably fit as the reduction fitting between the supply and return lines. And don’t ya know it did and I didn’t need any other hose clamps other than the OEM ones. No leaks! Just thought you would like to know…http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/coolant_bypass
See the pic it's the fifth one down.
I decided this weekend to do the bypass after changing the fuel filer. In the process I noticed that the brass fitting on the bottom of the throttle body would probably fit as the reduction fitting between the supply and return lines. And don’t ya know it did and I didn’t need any other hose clamps other than the OEM ones. No leaks! Just thought you would like to know…http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/coolant_bypass
See the pic it's the fifth one down.
To note, I removed (cut) approximately 1" of the lower coolant hose that connected the intake to the throttle body. This hose has two sharp pre-formed bends (60-90 degrees); the bend closest to the throttle body fitting was removed so it wouldn't get "kinked" upon reinstallation.
I also cleaned the throttle body and noticed that the car idled 300-400 rpm's higher after I buttoned everything back up and fired the car. I let it warm up and blipped the throttle a few times to see if the idle would return to normal but no luck. I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU and the idle returned to normal only after a few miles of driving. My guess is that the throttle body cleansing cleared some amount of restriction which increased airflow (and therefore idle speed); it took a "relearning" of the ECU to get it right again.
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