2jzgte w/ Cd009 swap “need help please!”
05-25-18, 07:47 PM
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2jzgte w/ Cd009 swap “need help please!”
So I’m at a standstill with my gte/Cd009 swap into a 99 gs300, it seems to be stuck in limp mode. The car starts, and idles fine, but it does seem to be running rich. The problem occurs whenever the car goes over 0 psi, as soon as boost hits I get what I think is a fuel cut. The car stops making power, the cluster goes black, and if I keep my foot on the throttle is just stutters, . If I let off and keep the system in vacuum it drives perfectly fine. I can shift through gears and everything, just as long as I’m in vacuum and not in boost.
I’ve bypassed the nss, and I removed the auto connectors and solenoids from the transmission and have them connected to the harness. I’ve also checked my maf and it seems to be working.
Can anyone help? I’ll be sure to do a write up and compile all of the missing info for the Cd009 swap into a 2nd gen if I can get this figured out haha. Thanks.
I’ve bypassed the nss, and I removed the auto connectors and solenoids from the transmission and have them connected to the harness. I’ve also checked my maf and it seems to be working.
Can anyone help? I’ll be sure to do a write up and compile all of the missing info for the Cd009 swap into a 2nd gen if I can get this figured out haha. Thanks.
05-25-18, 08:23 PM
#2
ummm..... what do you mean the cluster goes black? it loses all power? the gauges stop reading? the odometer readout blacks out? do you have a boost gauge? is your map sensor hooked up? how do you know your maf sensor is ok? did you test it? if so how? is it the correct maf sensor for jdm swap? verified part numbers? its odd your ipc cluster blacks out when it goes into boost. thats very odd. electrical anomaly it seems. check grounds and powers.
05-25-18, 09:20 PM
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All lights on the cluster go out, and gauges drop, but the car doesn’t completely die. It just stutters and the cluster flickers on and off until I let off the throttle.
And yes I have a boost gauge connected, as soon as it gets above 0 psi that’s when everything happens.
And I checked the maf by checking resistance, and also checked that it was registering air by blowing through it as I had the voltmeter connected. I used the prostreet guide.
And I just checked all main engine bay grounds, everything seems to be snug.
Also, the cel comes on when I try to drive it, but disappears as soon as the car is turned off.
And yes I have a boost gauge connected, as soon as it gets above 0 psi that’s when everything happens.
And I checked the maf by checking resistance, and also checked that it was registering air by blowing through it as I had the voltmeter connected. I used the prostreet guide.
And I just checked all main engine bay grounds, everything seems to be snug.
Also, the cel comes on when I try to drive it, but disappears as soon as the car is turned off.
05-26-18, 09:01 AM
#5
"Also, the cel comes on when I try to drive it, but disappears as soon as the car is turned off. "
i cant help but feel like its almost a joke. are you not aware the engine light is supposed to be off when the car is off? if its on while driving that means theres a problem. its time to pull codes and see why engine light is on.
im almost starting to think that when the engine is moving from acceleration a wire is being pulled just enough to cause electrical issues and when driving easy its not tugging on wire.
have you confirmed you have the correct maf sensor for the aristo swap and not a 2jzge maf sensor? they are different part numbers.
i cant help but feel like its almost a joke. are you not aware the engine light is supposed to be off when the car is off? if its on while driving that means theres a problem. its time to pull codes and see why engine light is on.
im almost starting to think that when the engine is moving from acceleration a wire is being pulled just enough to cause electrical issues and when driving easy its not tugging on wire.
have you confirmed you have the correct maf sensor for the aristo swap and not a 2jzge maf sensor? they are different part numbers.
06-27-18, 03:53 PM
#6
yep ill agree with badblackgs. something is odd that it would stutter and gauges flicker, that sounds to me like 100% electrical. something is losing connection electrically if its messing with the gauges like that. have you tried pulling the piping and running the engine without turbo input? possibly more along the lines of a certain rpm range more so than boost vs not.
06-28-18, 10:01 AM
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Sorry, I forgot I made this post. It ended up being a combination of low batteries in my volt meter, and a bad tps.
Car is running and driving with the cd009 installed. I’ve just been trying to find a boost leak for the last couple weeks. I’ve checked all piping and vacuum lines, all vsv’s are bypassed, and the stock bov is removed. My only guess is possibly the pressure tank. That’s the only thing I haven’t checked.
If anyone has any questions about doing the cd009 manual swap with the Collins kit just send me a pm, I’ll try to get back in a timely manner.
Car is running and driving with the cd009 installed. I’ve just been trying to find a boost leak for the last couple weeks. I’ve checked all piping and vacuum lines, all vsv’s are bypassed, and the stock bov is removed. My only guess is possibly the pressure tank. That’s the only thing I haven’t checked.
If anyone has any questions about doing the cd009 manual swap with the Collins kit just send me a pm, I’ll try to get back in a timely manner.
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