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Nice write-up. A few of us on the forums had previously removed the small plastic trim by the radiator in order to allow cooler air to enter through the headlight and to the secondary intake hole but I like your approach with creating a DIY heat shield using leftover drawer liner to minimize heat soak near the intake box. I'm guessing the drawer liner is resilient to high-temperatures from the engine bay?
From previous datalog entries, I've found the IATs to vary between 5-15 degrees above ambient temperatures when the car is in constant motion but will heat soak quickly when the car is at idle. I'll probably give the DIY heat shield mod a shot to see if there are any documented differences with using the liner vice no liner.
^^ So did you tap into the brake duct? Lord knows it's not helping the brakes any! All it does is put air under the car.
This would be defeating a safety device but while your at it, log enough data to get a baseline ratio of IAT to max ignition advance and then bypass the TB heater. Personally I can't imagine it could raise the temp enough to change any thing as the surface area is so small and time spent there is nill.
In the aero industry it is a must to heat the venturi to prevent icing but I have never seen a TB ice and stick on a car or bike as these applications keep the TB so close to the block radiating all that heat that they can't. The exception would be our sand rail back in the day running a 164c.i. air cooled Chevy fed by a tarantula intake. The damn little 450cfm Holley would ice over looking like a popsicle. Mind you ambient temps of 90°F and direct sunlight upon it and it still froze sticking the throttle. It made life exciting at times!
Interesting as I don't see a valve to listed in upon inspection to limit flow. Previous 3.0V6 had a habit of breaking a plastic T and dumping the fluid in a fountain of glory. The fix was bypassing the TB heater. I drove it for 4 years through all climates without issues. Again, I doubt it transfers any BTU's to the air passing through it anyways.
A saw this in the A760E manual. Notice the line, Engine Torque Control says it intentionally retards the timing during up and downshifts. And Power train cooperative control. Hmmm......
Where's the write up? I'm trying to see if I can fab something during the week at work.
It seems OP got chafed and deleted content among multiple threads so it is gone.
The premise was taking air from other locations by using pliable materials vs making hard ducts. As I mentioned in my post above, I would opt for stealing air from the brake duct as all it does is dump it under the car so you may as well get some use from it.
It seems OP got chafed and deleted content among multiple threads so it is gone.
The premise was taking air from other locations by using pliable materials vs making hard ducts. As I mentioned in my post above, I would opt for stealing air from the brake duct as all it does is dump it under the car so you may as well get some use from it.
Essentially correct. I also closed-without-saving 4 wordpad docs of future writeups intended to be posted here, one for this thread specifically about having to troubleshoot dryer lint in my air filter because I grabbed the wrong spare length of duct from my garage and didn't inspect it before smashing/taping it in place. My leaving wasn't so much a "taking my ball and going home" as a decision that felt like it was made for me over the course of roughly a month. My actions in scuttling threads and posts were to protect my own self interests from a FIFTH major event in an online community that resulted in me unwittingly spending a ridiculous amount of time and resources helping someone else's business.
From the onset of wanting to feed our engine more/better air, I've known that eventually the ECU would be a bottleneck for me. I never would have bought the first set of heads had both A: someone offered the ability to tune the ECU and B: I was confident that, should the tune turn out bogus as often is the case within these types of automotive communities, I'd be able to hijack and--for a lack of a better way to describe my approach--overclock every driven circuit on the engine. I spent the first couple weeks testing the limits of the casting, until I hit the water jacket and decided that, yeah, this is a feasible venture, bought the replacement, and almost immediately after concluding that ebay sale, wrote a post in ReeRee's ECU tune announcement thread that contained generally broad, aspirational questions about the tune they offer. That post was ignored for a week or two before I decided to PM ReeRee with roughly the same questions--the most important one to me being, "what's the highest RPM you can flash?"--and the only reply I got was, essentially, "YOU'RE A MINDLESS MORON!!!! BUY OUR MOST EXPENSIVE THING!!!"
I admit, I fell for the troll, because 5 seconds after I replied to their PM, I had that "dangit, I'm better than that" feeling. So whatever, ReeRee doesn't want my money, got it. I sat on that for another week or two until yet another thread pops up about air intakes, and frankly, I'm tired of seeing the same threads for easily offered products ignored by vendors, so I took the opportunity to fire a couple shots across their bow about fishing in a fish tank. Of course, since I'm right about how ReeRee views this community, instead of being a halfway decent business/community member and going, "sorry our customer service pooped the bed, how can we make it better?", they doubled down on the disrespect. What I didn't anticipate was the moderator staff being unpaid employees of ReeRee. If mods are going to clean up any bad publicity ReeRee brings upon themselves, then the moderator staff is undoubtedly ReeRee's most valuable business asset. It certainly isn't providing the products this community demands, else the thread we're currently in would have never existed. Certainly isn't for their monumentally useful insights and contributions to community members. Certainly isn't the way they treat potential customers.
Once I realized that this is exclusively ReeRee's playground, then things started feeling just like they did right before I found out someone used info I posted in IRC/VBB to make money. I don't care how plausible or not you think it'd be for ReeRee to take a junk set of heads and my Head Games info/pics to a head porter--no friggin shortage of those in PA, Dirt Track belt and all--and offering a tiered product lineup based around the fact that they're the only ones in control of the ECU, and they know it...the possibility of me doing it to myself--yet again--is too great. I'm kinda glad ReeRee's a D-hole, because if he'da just answered my questions, his tune would be on our car, and Head Games would have probably branched off into another thread focused solely on my junk head projects within the first week--I'm still trying to successfully extract the seats--and there'd be a whoooooole bunch more info ReeRee could use to make money off of publicly available. Whether or not ReeRee's smart enough to realize that is irrelevant. The fact that it directly negatively impacts the community is unfortunate, but again, it doesn't feel like I made the decision so much as reacted to it being made for me.
Just so we're clear: had ReeRee behaved like a halfway decent community member, I would have had no problems with them copying my homework and selling it. That's why HG post #1 had valve, spring, cup, and seat dimensions in it. Now, obviously, I'd rather they not pay their bills.
Aight, you're coming off my bookmarks so I won't keep Real Houswifing you folks. Gonna be a little weird...you made it to #7 through attrition.
06-23-19 | 04:47 AM
A few of us on the forums had previously removed the small plastic trim by the radiator in order to allow cooler air to enter through the headlight and to the secondary intake hole but I like your approach with creating a DIY heat shield using leftover drawer liner to minimize heat soak near the intake box. I'm guessing the drawer liner is resilient to high-temperatures from the engine bay?
