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damn a 1.4 40-60. thats 33% quicker than me at 2.1. i wonder whats your 0-60 and 1/4 times. i dont think a mid 12 sec 1/4 mile is possible with our cars if NA. i think a mid-high 12 sec is probably the best without forced induction, like a 12.7-12.8. i hope that i could my car at 300whp while keeping it NA but seeing redspencer's is350 getting 293whp i dont think its going to happen
My current FBO NA setup+ ported manifold and E85 custom tune get 330 WHP on a dynapack with TCF of 1.06 I don't know what kind of number it will get on dyno in USA.
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback for comparisons. It's crazy I trapped higher than you on my 1/4 slip at the 1/8 mile time. How many miles on engine on your run? With 161k miles on mine. I'm fairly impressed. I hope more members post their stock and tuned runs.
I just hit 142k miles, but was around 110k maybe when I made that pass. I have a well-maintained and healthy motor/trans.
I can also vouch for the RR Racing tune being a fantastic upgrade and having solid reliability. I regularly take my IS350 to the race track and the tune is essential as it lets you stay in the lower gears for a longer period of time.
I have a neighbor who recently offered to let me borrow his GPS unit in order to obtain a 1/4 mile time using the draggy app. With you starting this thread, I think I'll have to take him up on that offer.
Regarding your 0-60 time, you can definitely do better with a fresh set of tires (particularly UHP summer tires). I don't have a draggy recorded 0-60 time but this is what I managed to pull during a warm summer night (I'm overdue with recording a pull during the cooler winter timeframe).
Yes, I've seen your vids. You are undoubtedly an important factor to the entire IS community. Thank you!! I can't wait to see what some summer rubber puts down. I'm hoping for at least 5 flat stock engine on my 162k beast.
Originally Posted by DickH
Keep in mind that for the most part 0-60 times are more about traction than power. You can only accelerate with the power you can put down without spinning.
I do think mid 12s are doable, I am probably high 12s as is if I get traction sorted out. The difference in our 40-60 would damn near put you in the 12s, I wouldn't be too surprised if there were another few tenths difference between us from 60-100mph.
Yes traction is utterly the most important factor. But I also enjoy a good Ol' roll race from 40-130 or 60-130+. Right now I'm just a tad slower than a 335i I raced on hwy. He def took me, but wasn't bad at all. Then I raced a 328i from Dig and roll. He could not keep up at all. I got some vids of that I'll post soon. The 328i was RWD as well. 12.6 is doable for sure
Originally Posted by autovation
I remember seeing a video of a stock isf racing a stock is350. The gearing on the is350 is much shorter and the is350 was actually ahead at the 1/8 mile mark but lost in the 1/4 mile mark. I was debating to switch over to a isf as my daily driver but decided against it because of that. With similar performance under 60mph, better gas mileage and better looks (IMO! ), I stayed with the is350 (now at 191k miles) and added some upgrades (also stayed with larger MP4S's).
So you are comfortable going hard on your engine at 191k? I'm not used to Lexus and this engine. It feels very peppy for sure. but loses ground after 70-100ish. Coming from forced inducted bimmers, diff ball game. Have you done your 2nd timing belt yet? What major/minor things you've been through already? Thanks
Originally Posted by Gville350
I just hit 142k miles, but was around 110k maybe when I made that pass. I have a well-maintained and healthy motor/trans.
Very good to hear. Do you do oil changes every 3k or 5k? Have you done a triple drain and refill on trans, I heard 3 times is best?
Very good to hear. Do you do oil changes every 3k or 5k? Have you done a triple drain and refill on trans, I heard 3 times is best?
Since ownership, I've done 10k oil changes using Mobil 1 full syn. I've now decided to lower the intervals to only 8k, and I've got one coming up here soon in fact.
For the trans, I did only one trickle flush around 100k. But I'll do another around 150k miles.
I kind of want to blow my engine so I can drop a 2jZ in there, but for now. I want to do FBO plius tune and I want an E30 map for E85. Let me know your thoughts
Honestly a 2jz would be a waste if you don't plan to exceed some crazy horsepower number. It's little known for now but the 2GR-FSE has a very stout bottom end from the factory. RR Racing is seeing 460 whp (~540 bhp) with their supercharger kit on completely stock unopened engines. That is more than enough power to take on just about anything. After that the power isn't even really usable on the street but if you're still wanting to make more power it's possible. There's a guy in the middle east making ~720 hp from his twin turbo 3IS350 (same engine) with a forged bottom end. Since the ecus have been unlocked on these cars we're just now seeing the tuning capabilities of our platform.
Originally Posted by Sean350nyc
Have you done your 2nd timing belt yet? What major/minor things you've been through already? Thanks
The 2GR has a timing chain my man. No need to even worry about it unless you start hearing noise coming from there. Make sure you keep your oil changed and full and it will last as long as you want it to.
Further poo-pooing on the 2JZ swap, a $1k junkyard LS, $4k swap kit (don't get me started on pricing...), and $3k Magnum 6sp makes a more practical swap, with more parts availability and power everywhere. Throw some nagasaki noisemakers into the mix, and you far surpass the JZ family's power capabilities. With a budget of $10k and a 2is, you can ostensibly have a sub-10 quarter mile car. Sub-9, if you've built LS-powered race cars before.
It's like all the guys in the Full Size Jeep community that can't get the idea of a 12v Cummins swap out of their head...you end up destroying the truck getting 6 cylinders in a line where you can more easily do more in less space with a different swap...
Edit: BTW, I'm using 3600lbs at a 8.9sec quarter to get ~1k whp. 1k whp isn't easy to do, but also isn't impossible, on a 6.0l stock iron block.
Working too many hours and missed this...
I have no real numbers just a 2IS in the cold 40°F with new tires BFG G-Force Comp 2 A/S, and what was labeled 100 octane meth free. Add in the RR tune and you get a crappy video....
Further poo-pooing on the 2JZ swap, a $1k junkyard LS, $4k swap kit (don't get me started on pricing...), and $3k Magnum 6sp makes a more practical swap, with more parts availability and power everywhere. Throw some nagasaki noisemakers into the mix, and you far surpass the JZ family's power capabilities. With a budget of $10k and a 2is, you can ostensibly have a sub-10 quarter mile car. Sub-9, if you've built LS-powered race cars before.
It's like all the guys in the Full Size Jeep community that can't get the idea of a 12v Cummins swap out of their head...you end up destroying the truck getting 6 cylinders in a line where you can more easily do more in less space with a different swap...
Edit: BTW, I'm using 3600lbs at a 8.9sec quarter to get ~1k whp. 1k whp isn't easy to do, but also isn't impossible, on a 6.0l stock iron block.
Alright. While LS swaps are some of the cheaper swaps 2JZ swaps are just as cheap if you know what you’re doing. Get a $500 JZ out of an IS300, put $400 into the bottom end with GTE internals and new gaskets, bearingsc etc and you have a $900 800 who capable engine that’s essentially new and you know it’s history... or, get an SC300 or early GS300 engine for the same price and you have the bottom end already.
Bolting a JZ to a CD009 is every bit as good as a 6.0 to a T56 and costs relatively the same.
swap kits are all gonna be about the same.
You also won’t surpass any JZ family power numbers without building the bottom end of the LS. Regardless of what you tubers tell you the junkyard engine was never meant to make big numbers and will fail eventually. Both JZ and LS motors HAVE to be built to handle power over ~800 whp or you’re gonna have a bad time.
Most people want a JZ to keep it Toyota. Personally I don’t care, but we really need to kill this trend of LS swapping everything because it’s not the end all be all.
Alright. While LS swaps are some of the cheaper swaps 2JZ swaps are just as cheap if you know what you’re doing. Get a $500 JZ out of an IS300, put $400 into the bottom end with GTE internals and new gaskets, bearingsc etc and you have a $900 800 who capable engine that’s essentially new and you know it’s history... or, get an SC300 or early GS300 engine for the same price and you have the bottom end already.
Bolting a JZ to a CD009 is every bit as good as a 6.0 to a T56 and costs relatively the same.
swap kits are all gonna be about the same.
You also won’t surpass any JZ family power numbers without building the bottom end of the LS. Regardless of what you tubers tell you the junkyard engine was never meant to make big numbers and will fail eventually. Both JZ and LS motors HAVE to be built to handle power over ~800 whp or you’re gonna have a bad time.
Most people want a JZ to keep it Toyota. Personally I don’t care, but we really need to kill this trend of LS swapping everything because it’s not the end all be all.
One vote for a Coyote oval!
Just to do something different! I enjoyed the V8 days and mainly just miss the sound! And Torque's! Not cost effective but different.
One vote for a Coyote oval!
Just to do something different! I enjoyed the V8 days and mainly just miss the sound! And Torque's! Not cost effective but different.
I don’t blame you lol. My Z06 was fun to drive but that thing couldn’t even keep 325s from spinning lol. Too much torque kills the experience imo. Balanced is the way to be!
Alright. While LS swaps are some of the cheaper swaps 2JZ swaps are just as cheap if you know what you’re doing. Get a $500 JZ out of an IS300, put $400 into the bottom end with GTE internals and new gaskets, bearingsc etc and you have a $900 800 who capable engine that’s essentially new and you know it’s history... or, get an SC300 or early GS300 engine for the same price and you have the bottom end already.
Bolting a JZ to a CD009 is every bit as good as a 6.0 to a T56 and costs relatively the same.
swap kits are all gonna be about the same.
You also won’t surpass any JZ family power numbers without building the bottom end of the LS. Regardless of what you tubers tell you the junkyard engine was never meant to make big numbers and will fail eventually. Both JZ and LS motors HAVE to be built to handle power over ~800 whp or you’re gonna have a bad time.
Most people want a JZ to keep it Toyota. Personally I don’t care, but we really need to kill this trend of LS swapping everything because it’s not the end all be all.
I have a really bad taste in my mouth from the JZ family because one of my buddies with a '95 Mk.4 hardtop has spent more than a quarter mil trying to get 1k whp to go down the strip, and yeah, he's got a kill video of a Veyron and some cool Insta posts, but he's driven it maybe a total of 10 hours in the 7 years he's had it. The rest of the time he's owned it, it's just been a money pit.
Meanwhile, we had a coworker who was effectively the pit boss for a LS-swapped Fox body that was chasing 5 second passes in the 1/8th and changing out 5.3l bottom ends more often than he changed socks. The big joke was that the Fox had more miles down the track than the Supra ever will under it's own power, and he was spending more on race fuel than he was on 5.3l blocks.
I have a really bad taste in my mouth from the JZ family because one of my buddies with a '95 Mk.4 hardtop has spent more than a quarter mil trying to get 1k whp to go down the strip, and yeah, he's got a kill video of a Veyron and some cool Insta posts, but he's driven it maybe a total of 10 hours in the 7 years he's had it. The rest of the time he's owned it, it's just been a money pit.
Meanwhile, we had a coworker who was effectively the pit boss for a LS-swapped Fox body that was chasing 5 second passes in the 1/8th and changing out 5.3l bottom ends more often than he changed socks. The big joke was that the Fox had more miles down the track than the Supra ever will under it's own power, and he was spending more on race fuel than he was on 5.3l blocks.
Totally understandable. I'll never own another LS7 for the simple reason that mine was more unreliable than my old turbo rotary powered RX8. The average person and more than likely OP aren't going to be chasing those times in a Lexus IS though. Both engines are good choices for any normal street car.
I did my very first 1/4 mile run in my IS350 and used Dragy to get the times GPS certified. It's definitely a different experience from doing my usual cornering adventures but since I like accumulating data and stats on this car, I figure I'd see what this car can do in the 1/4 mile with my mods.
I only had the chance to do one attempt at a 1/4 mile and while there's still room for improvement, I think I did okay for being a drag noob. Rear tire PSI was at 34, brake torque was around 1200-1500 RPMs, and my upshift timing was fairly close to being at redline before each shift.
My biggest bummer of the single run I did was that my certified time was literally 13.00 seconds! If I was 0.01 seconds quicker, it would have officially made the IS350 a 12 second car. I'm hoping that with more experience and more attempts, I'll break into the 12s.
I did my very first 1/4 mile run in my IS350 and used Dragy to get the times GPS certified. It's definitely a different experience from doing my usual cornering adventures but since I like accumulating data and stats on this car, I figure I'd see what this car can do in the 1/4 mile with my mods.
I only had the chance to do one attempt at a 1/4 mile and while there's still room for improvement, I think I did okay for being a drag noob. Rear tire PSI was at 34, brake torque was around 1200-1500 RPMs, and my upshift timing was fairly close to being at redline before each shift.
My biggest bummer of the single run I did was that my certified time was literally 13.00 seconds! If I was 0.01 seconds quicker, it would have officially made the IS350 a 12 second car. I'm hoping that with more experience and more attempts, I'll break into the 12s.
Here's my recorded times for my 0-60, 1/8 mile, and 1/4 mile times:
0-60 (4.63sec), 40-60 (1.88sec):
1/4 mile time (13.00sec) & 1/8 mile time (8.39sec), 0-100mph (11.48sec):
NICE! It’ll be very possible to get the car under 13 seconds with a little more tries. I always wonder, wouldn’t the official 0-60 be allowed a 1 ft roll? So your 0-60 is 4.39? That 1/8 mile time is fast too! 8.39
02-03-20, 09:19 AM
(IMO! 
), I stayed with the is350 (now at 191k miles) and added some upgrades (also stayed with larger MP4S's).
