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I have TTI flashed ecu tune.
The print out is above, 231 hp and 269 ft/lb at the wheel, outside temperature was 80F. but that was stock airbox w/fsport filter,
I since changed it with HKS super powerflow and aluminum intake from HPS, I think I am closer to 250 hp, car more responsive, need to go back to the dyno one of these days to test again.
I am looking into a hybrid turbo next, but need to wait.
my kits finally gonna be done after 2ish months of development
Do you know how much wheel horsepower you are pushing because i want to get performance mods to make liike 290 wheel but idk if the lexus ecu still uncrackable.
The ECU is fully tunable. I have a unit from D3 Performance and while I only loaded their canned flash, if I wanted to I could modify the parameters myself, log and email tune or dyno tune. I will likely do so once I have water injection setup. You will need a larger turbo and improved cooling to get close to 300whp. D3 is working on a solution, you can check out their thread.
my kits finally gonna be done after 2ish months of development
Can't wait to see that!
Hopefully it can be done easily, in a year or two, I want to trade mine in for a 4th gen. That is main reason why I am not breaking my neck for plumbing a front mount.
I have my "shelf of shame" with all of the stock parts to go back on when i trade her in for highest resale value.
TTI is really good to me, I had asked them to modify something and they have been awesome.
What we need is the TRD TG20 SpecB Turbo, that is able to make 300 and use stock system.
I have the PPE catless downpipe, Invidia Midpipe and Invidia Axlebacks...and yes, they are loud on my RC lol.
I'm hoping a tune will get rid of that drone between 2500-3000 rpms. The transmission shifts in that range so it keeps me in that drone unless I accelerate out of it.
Installed the TTI Muffler Delete and Diverter Valve spacer
Can see both in the picture.
Shortly I will put her on a dyno for the new numbers hopefully I can get into the 240s or maybe 250 WHP. Will see.
Could you please help me with this installation? I'm going to be doing the TTI diverter and muffler but I can't find the right tools or videos and I'm not much of a pro =(
The Muffler delete is really easy. Remove the bracket above the muffler, remove the air outlet from the turbo with the stock muffler. once that is off you can remove the stock muffler w/ gasket and replace with the muffler delete with the original rubber gasket.
The Diverter valve is a horrible and intense area to get to and change. Since you have the top stuff from the muffler off and area opened up, masking tape the turbo's port so nothing falls in it, masking tape the intake pipe the cold air intake goes on. Do Not try to un bolt from turbo, it can't come off.
You will need to loose the ground straps, do them individually so you can tuck them lower and then remove the bracket left there the grounds are used to bolt to the motor it's easier to work the wires out of the way with out the bracket all connected. You will also need to loosen the wire harness plastic loom bolted across the front of the engine I believe there is 3 or 4 bolts on the top and bottom of the plastic harness support. That will allow you to pull it forward for more room, not too much but maybe an inch or two.
Remove connectors in the area so you don't break them There is one on the head above the turbo it has 2 connections so you can just make room and able to get your hand down there to make sure you have the socket in the bolt.
The bolts/screws that hold the diverter valve on are T-30 Torx bits and the top 2 are easy, the bottom one is the pain. That can be done but you will have to contort your hand under it guiding the socket in the bolt head. if it seems hard to get it in the bolt/screw head, use a T-27 might be easier to get it in and it's still able to break the bolt/screw loose, not really heavy torqued down but there is some force needed, that is what I used for the bottom,.
I used a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6 inch extension, swivel, and of course the T-30 and T-27 sockets. You need to do 1/4 cause 3/8 will be too fat to fit in the tight area and flush against the diverter valve since the bolts are so close the valve.
Like I said this is a hard job, good luck, I busted up the top of my hand near the ring knuckle with getting the bottom diverter valve bolt/screw. The diverter valve will only fit one way, with the ports facing up and toward engine, make sure you don't drop a bolt.
Also incase TTI sent out longer than needed bolts, you will want to make sure they are M6x1 35mm, TTI accidently sent me M6x1 40mm, which were too long.
Hopefully this pic can help, and not look like a drunken pirate treasure map. Good Luck!!!
BTW, Toyota's are great they will only use 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 , 21, and larger usually suspension or areas that require more torque.
I have the PPE catless downpipe, Invidia Midpipe and Invidia Axlebacks...and yes, they are loud on my RC lol.
I'm hoping a tune will get rid of that drone between 2500-3000 rpms. The transmission shifts in that range so it keeps me in that drone unless I accelerate out of it.
I don't think it will help. I get that nasty drone around 1500, I might go back to using the OEM mid pipe since it's roughly the same pipe width and has extra resonators to lower it down a little more.
The Muffler delete is really easy. Remove the bracket above the muffler, remove the air outlet from the turbo with the stock muffler. once that is off you can remove the stock muffler w/ gasket and replace with the muffler delete with the original rubber gasket.
The Diverter valve is a horrible and intense area to get to and change. Since you have the top stuff from the muffler off and area opened up, masking tape the turbo's port so nothing falls in it, masking tape the intake pipe the cold air intake goes on. Do Not try to un bolt from turbo, it can't come off.
You will need to loose the ground straps, do them individually so you can tuck them lower and then remove the bracket left there the grounds are used to bolt to the motor it's easier to work the wires out of the way with out the bracket all connected. You will also need to loosen the wire harness plastic loom bolted across the front of the engine I believe there is 3 or 4 bolts on the top and bottom of the plastic harness support. That will allow you to pull it forward for more room, not too much but maybe an inch or two.
Remove connectors in the area so you don't break them There is one on the head above the turbo it has 2 connections so you can just make room and able to get your hand down there to make sure you have the socket in the bolt.
The bolts/screws that hold the diverter valve on are T-30 Torx bits and the top 2 are easy, the bottom one is the pain. That can be done but you will have to contort your hand under it guiding the socket in the bolt head. if it seems hard to get it in the bolt/screw head, use a T-27 might be easier to get it in and it's still able to break the bolt/screw loose, not really heavy torqued down but there is some force needed, that is what I used for the bottom,.
I used a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6 inch extension, swivel, and of course the T-30 and T-27 sockets. You need to do 1/4 cause 3/8 will be too fat to fit in the tight area and flush against the diverter valve since the bolts are so close the valve.
Like I said this is a hard job, good luck, I busted up the top of my hand near the ring knuckle with getting the bottom diverter valve bolt/screw. The diverter valve will only fit one way, with the ports facing up and toward engine, make sure you don't drop a bolt.
Also incase TTI sent out longer than needed bolts, you will want to make sure they are M6x1 35mm, TTI accidently sent me M6x1 40mm, which were too long.
Hopefully this pic can help, and not look like a drunken pirate treasure map. Good Luck!!!
BTW, Toyota's are great they will only use 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 , 21, and larger usually suspension or areas that require more torque.
Omg thank you! This will help I've been looking for installs and places to help but not luck so I will treasure that diagram! I appreciate it so much. Yeah when I ordered my space it was during that time they sent emails about it and had to hold on some orders.
I tried to see what size to use and I ended up dropping a socket and bit down my engine bay with no luck to retrieve it hahaha =(
Omg thank you! This will help I've been looking for installs and places to help but not luck so I will treasure that diagram! I appreciate it so much. Yeah when I ordered my space it was during that time they sent emails about it and had to hold on some orders.
I tried to see what size to use and I ended up dropping a socket and bit down my engine bay with no luck to retrieve it hahaha =(
Just measure the bolts that they send are 35mm and get both T30 and T27 1/4 sockets, I had a hard time getting the socket in the bolt, and cause you have absolutely no room. and found the T27 was easier to go in. Once those bolts are out, celebrate.
When you get it in and done, post a pic want to see your success
Will do might be a couple weekend have to put some time off for it. Also how do you like your TTI tune? Did you buy the tool to flash it or did you drive to the shop?
I got the tool, it's pretty good, makes the car fun to drive.
Tim thank you very much again. Was like 40 min job didn't bust my hand but it sounds pretty ricer hahaha I smile everytime I hear it.... Now time for the tune
01-12-21 | 06:19 AM
