Dealarr

Hello my sirs, is there an option to install an oil cooler for the engine for our 2IS? If our oils are cooled, cool oil don't burn = less carbon issues potentially. So would like to try find a sandwich plate, if there's none, surely there is a way to go about it?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

JM2C but unless your climate is scorching hot, adding an uncontrolled always cooling bypass would likely sludge up your engine unless it's daily use involves running at operating temperature for more than 20min. Heck, right now we don't even know what the temperature is much less if it needs cooling.

Keeping in mind that everytime you shut an engine off it pulls in moisture from the air that only leaves after its been at sustained operating temperature. Taking that a step further a proper bypass would need thermostatic control to bypass the cooler until it hits what, 190°F.

One last thing, if your decision is to move forward with a cooler, you should take note of the two pipe plugs in plain sight in your picture. Those may be an option for cooling.

Dealarr

Do you mean the ones to the right of the filter housing? With one protruding more than the other from our angle?

Have you or anyone else seen these ones? Then can just connect 2x oil radiator with hoses to it. I can only find them on one website but they were for general use, anyone know the thread size and depth for our oil cooler line nut? (15797-31010)
http://www.classiclancia.com/car-par...product_id=132

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

If your dead set on doing this, you want quality AN fittings and as FEW AS POSSIBLE, elbows as they cause restrictions. Mind you the 2UR, 2GR, and 4GR are one giant controlled oil leak internally.
Chain oilers, piston crown coolers, valve springs coolers, VVTi, lifters, and all the reciprocating parts! You don't need a drop in oil pressure, there is a lot a stake! How about monitor the temperature for a while see what it really is. Or does that matter?

Dealarr

See my bro, logic is, oil isn't going to burn or evaporate by itself naturally. It only burns or evaporates when it gets too hot. Who is to say Lexus did not design our engines to run extra hot so we gotta spend more money topping up oil at the stealership?

Therefore, cool the oil, less heat, less build up. Don't let luxury brands cloud our judgement they are nothing but brands, it's all the same. But the IS cars are very well made compared to the rest, sucks they have to sabotage their own products.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

That is incorrect. Blowby passed the piston rings pressurizes the crankcase, forcing the oil vapor into the intake track to be consumed by the combustion process. It has nothing to do with oil temperature. Of course a secondary source is worn valve guides, leaking seals.
Over cooling oil that isn't being damaged by heat is going to cause more wear than leaving it alone. The exceptions are use and ambient temps. But whatever...
GL

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Those two ports next to the oil canister could be used. I've discussed this and Jeff confirmed one is a high-pressure port, and the other is low-pressure. Was researching for a turbo feed and return line. Totally possible!

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

The engine was designed with an operating temperature range the oil should operate in. You want it to heat up as quickly as possible and then stay in that range.

A thermostatic oil cooler setup would be a good way to go for sure, if you are seeing temperatures above the target operating temperature range.

Jeff

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure OP doesn't even know how hot it is and thinks adding a cooler is going to prolong it's life. If I were a betting person, I'd speculate a lot more will go wrong than goes right.
Oil coolers should only be of the best materials and design or kiss the engine goodbye!
Adding to this, as stated several times now, these really need to be thermostatically controlled or you actually induce more wear than necessary.

Dealarr

Just so you know, I use to sell them new at Lexus of Perth. Our product knowledge of these 2IS's had to be impeccable. If you drove your car hard and fast right from the cold, yes, an oil cooler might be detrimental because you need your oil to reach that 20 in 5w20 or 30 in 5w30 to start protecting the engine. My engine gets super hot from standstill traffic and also I cane it quite hard when warmed up, as you can see in my other post this IS is DIY forced inducted so runs abit hotter. All engines run cold from the start therefore the argument can be made that the faster it heats up to its operating temperature the better. But while it is there, it is better cooled if you have a lead foot.

Thanks for the replies in confirming, it seems we can just get a cooler, two lines, some fittings and viola! Might add a fan for stop start traffic. (Does anyone know the size of the fitting required? whats the mm of the plugs?)

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you'll get any argument from that if an engine is running hotter than intended that an oil cooler is a good idea. If you're running forced induction even moreso.

The tricky part about just using the ports on the pan is that one is feed and one is return, so you can't just tap into each of them and run cooling lines, because that will effectively also bypass the oil filter. If doing so, you'd also want to run a remote oil filter. It would work fine for feeding oil for a turbo, etc., where you'll drain back to the pan, but not as good for a cooling setup. My suggestion if looking to change up the oil filter/cooler routing would be one of two options, the first is to get a Baxter or similar adapter that provides you with the fittings you need to run to a cooler and remote filter. Baxter TR-201-BK or TR-202-BK will fit the bill here.



The other option is to order the oil pan from a newer 2GR or 8GR that does have an oil cooler, and then adapt from that, but it's much more expensive, and way more difficult.

12101-31241 - Oil Pan, Engine Upper
12102-31110 - Oil Pan, Engine Lower
15609-31061 - Bracket, Oil Filter (with Oil Cooler Flange)
91551-80830 - Bolt, Oil Filter Bracket to Upper Oil Pan (Qty: 2)
94151-80800 - Nut, Oil Filter Bracket to Upper Oil Pan (Qty: 2)
89491-30101 - Sensor, Engine Oil Level
90980-11166 - Connector, Oil Level Sensor (Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 2 not used).
15367-31020 - Bracket, Oil Level Sensor
90126-06029 - Stud, Oil Level Sensor Bracket
94151-80600 - Nut, Oil Level Sensor (Qty: 2)
90468-15007 - Clip, Oil Level Sensor Wire
15692-31080 - Gasket, Oil Filter Bracket to Oil Pan
15785-31030 - Gasket, Oil Filter Bracket to Oil Cooler
96723-35035 - Gasket, Oil Filter Bracket to Oil Cooler
00295-00103 - FIPG, Oil Pan
12151-31010 - O-Ring, Oil Pan to Block (Qty: 2)
90301-12018 - O-Ring, Oil Pan to Dipstick Tube
90430-12031 - Gasket, Oil Pan Drain Plug

After doing all that, you'll have two options, one you can use the oil to coolant heat exchanger (15710-31080) or make an adapter plate that will bolt up to your new oil pan/filter adapter.

Jeff

Dealarr

Ey yo, this is what I am talking about, community help to make everyone to have the knowledge base to make their own cars better, no time for anything else really. Big ups brother Jeff

Edit: Hey Jeff

If opening those two ports will bypass our filter, does that mean we can bypass factory filter altogether and just run a remote oil filter with the Baxter setup. Will this then allow us to filter all the oil, or does it mean we need to change two oil filters every time we change the oil.