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99 GS400 weigh reductions without losing safty.

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Old 11-04-20, 09:26 AM
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DexGS400
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Default 99 GS400 weigh reductions without losing safty.

1999 GS400's as we know are 3600 lbs. About 10 years ago I purchased a 1998 Crown Victoria from N.C. police sale. I removed a huge 45lbs away bar, took the steel reinforced rims off and put on a set of Grand Marquis aluminum rims, I made my own cold air box, and I took the old car 9.30's at 77 mpg. I was hoping that I could do the same thing with my GS400 without hurting the interia, ect. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Old 11-04-20, 05:33 PM
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firelizard
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What's your target weight? The GS400 weighs in at 3700, btw.

GS400 should already be able to go 9s in the 8th without much fuss.


edit:

I read your other thread and it sounds like you've already done most of the basic free/cheap weight reduction already. I would definitely not remove the anti-roll bars. I guess the better question is what your tolerance for spending money is, now. Aluminum brake calipers from a 2nd gen LS400 are a pretty cheap modification. Most body panels are available in fiberglass.
There's plenty of interior that you don't need if you just want to go fast.

Last edited by firelizard; 11-04-20 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 11-05-20, 05:09 AM
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TrueGS300
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Unsprung and especially rotational drivetrain weight are the most important weight to focus on for ET's. The aluminum brake calipers are a good idea firelizard mentioned, you also benefit from the upgraded pad/rotor size from the whole LS400 setup for better braking. And yes, budget will have a lot to do with this. On the cheap you can remove your interior and seats for race day, use a small motorcycle battery for race day, things like that. Money gets you a good lightweight set of rims. You can upgrade your torque converter in the trans for a better stall speed for launch + 20lbs lighter weight if it's a quality bilit smaller diameter unit. That's huge weight off the drivetrain. Driftmotion offers one piece aluminum driveshafts. Again, lighter weight and less drivetrain loss of power. I use to remove my front swaybar completely on race day as it is dead weight for drag racing. Weight distribution is something to consider too. Relocating the battery to the trunk is good for putting necessary weight over the drive wheels. In the GS specifically, I removed the CD changer unit behind the glovebox because it will never be used. That thing is 20lbs! I removed the spare and jack etc. as a AAA member I'll never use it. If you are into this I'm sure you will be doing intake and exhaust mods. Consider having a custom exhaust made rather than the available kits. Although mine is for my 2jz turbo build, you can still do it like I did. Just have a single outlet made. I never saw a reason to run two giant resonators/mufflers, etc. That's for OEM silence. Just go to a single pipe out after the intermediate pipe where the two banks meet. There's lots more, but that's some food for thought.
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Old 11-05-20, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
Unsprung and especially rotational drivetrain weight are the most important weight to focus on for ET's. The aluminum brake calipers are a good idea firelizard mentioned, you also benefit from the upgraded pad/rotor size from the whole LS400 setup for better braking. And yes, budget will have a lot to do with this. On the cheap you can remove your interior and seats for race day, use a small motorcycle battery for race day, things like that. Money gets you a good lightweight set of rims. You can upgrade your torque converter in the trans for a better stall speed for launch + 20lbs lighter weight if it's a quality bilit smaller diameter unit. That's huge weight off the drivetrain. Driftmotion offers one piece aluminum driveshafts. Again, lighter weight and less drivetrain loss of power. I use to remove my front swaybar completely on race day as it is dead weight for drag racing. Weight distribution is something to consider too. Relocating the battery to the trunk is good for putting necessary weight over the drive wheels. In the GS specifically, I removed the CD changer unit behind the glovebox because it will never be used. That thing is 20lbs! I removed the spare and jack etc. as a AAA member I'll never use it. If you are into this I'm sure you will be doing intake and exhaust mods. Consider having a custom exhaust made rather than the available kits. Although mine is for my 2jz turbo build, you can still do it like I did. Just have a single outlet made. I never saw a reason to run two giant resonators/mufflers, etc. That's for OEM silence. Just go to a single pipe out after the intermediate pipe where the two banks meet. There's lots more, but that's some food for thought.
Thank you True GS, for your reply. Great suggestions and information. I'm an old time Drag Racer as I started in 1983 here in SC. I recently one a big race a Rockingham Dragway in Rockingham N.C. driving for Mr Don he has an old 1967 Ford Fairlane Superstock car. I drove it off the foot brake. No Box/Footbrake racing has exploded over the years purse wise and car count. They got a true Street class as well I was thinking about driving the old GS400 and that if not double internet no box and True Street. Its bracket racing on dail in. So the most consistent car wins, not the fastest. I drive an old Gruge car, back half big block Nova for fun also. I believe that i am going to do well with the old GS400. I' just startedback drag racing as I made my return since 2011. I'm thankful to have the opportunity to race again. . Rockingham Dragway https://www.rockinghamdragway.com/results/2020/cpf.htm



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