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I need help breaking in my 2JZ-GE, I full rebuilt the motor to factory specs, such as torque specs, and torque patterns. I have oem everything except connecting rods, pistons, and main/connecting rod bearings. Engine runs smooth but the first 15 minutes of start up it had misfire on cylinder 3 (That's a fuel injector problem). The other problem was that it had metal inside the engine oil, no tapping no knocking sounded really nice and peaceful if you will. I haven't turned it over but put new oil in it and willing to go again. I have the following
Carillo SC7472 pistons
Manley Connecting Rods
King Race Bearings
there is no spark knock and it still sounds really nice I think the piston rings might just needed a little wear and tear but I don't know. I also have bored to 86.5 mm instead of a 86 mm bore along with honing for the cylinders. Again no knocking or tapping and this is the first time starting up the engine, if anyone has these combination in parts please help me out.
Also the red is transmission fluid nothing to worry about.
Were you able to verify the oil pressure while it was running? Did you prime the oil system before firing it up? It seems most likely that the metal was just some “trash” left from the machine work. You just want to try and verify the oil pressure was correct. You can always attach a pressure gauge to the factory sending unit if your firing it up on the engine stand or something. If you have good oil pressure and the misfire is corrected then your going to have to cross your fingers, grit your teeth, and fire it back up.
Were you changing out the break-in oil already? Or just inspecting it, when you found the metal? Was this just a precaution? Or did you have any other issues that prompted the change so quickly?
Your “break-in” procedure on a stock drivetrain would be fairly simple. After 500 miles you’ll need to do the oil change, get the break-in oil out. You want to be gentle with it, but don’t feel like you can’t drive it normally. I wouldn’t push it to redline, but you probably could without having any adverse effects. Some people will say it can’t be revved over 3500rpms etc, and thats for an engine with flat tappet lifters. In your case, the main concern will be giving the piston rings time to expand fully so they find a bead in the cylinder walls. You won’t achieve maximum compression until they are ready.
Were you able to verify the oil pressure while it was running? Did you prime the oil system before firing it up? It seems most likely that the metal was just some “trash” left from the machine work. You just want to try and verify the oil pressure was correct. You can always attach a pressure gauge to the factory sending unit if your firing it up on the engine stand or something. If you have good oil pressure and the misfire is corrected then your going to have to cross your fingers, grit your teeth, and fire it back up.
Were you changing out the break-in oil already? Or just inspecting it, when you found the metal? Was this just a precaution? Or did you have any other issues that prompted the change so quickly?
I changed the oil because my friend said to change it after 20 minutes of start up, I primed the oil by hand also got a k&n filter. The machine shop cleaned the block down to the point of having to repaint the engine. I changed the oil because I felt that the oil needs to be as clean as possible. I just rebuild the motor and it looked like a glitter bomb went off, only finely grinded metal no big pieces. The engine even with misfire ran so steady the I could put a wine glass on top and it would be just fine, just like the commercials. There was no knocking or tapping cooking from the engine at all. I lubed everything with engine builder grease I wanna call it.
I changed the oil because my friend said to change it after 20 minutes of start up, I primed the oil by hand also got a k&n filter. The machine shop cleaned the block down to the point of having to repaint the engine. I changed the oil because I felt that the oil needs to be as clean as possible. I just rebuild the motor and it looked like a glitter bomb went off, only finely grinded metal no big pieces. The engine even with misfire ran so steady the I could put a wine glass on top and it would be just fine, just like the commercials. There was no knocking or tapping cooking from the engine at all. I lubed everything with engine builder grease I wanna call it.
I am not saying u did anything wrong by changing the oil right away. Some people believe it’s best to get all the assembly lube outta there as soon as possible. Not sure what to tell u on the glittler other than there are 2 types of parts washers, one is a high pressure operation that’s going to quickly remove all the engine paint etc, and not be as effective at rinsing all the little hidden areas, like an oil gallery where some fine metal shavings could have been hiding. The other type machine using high frequency vibrations and it’s excellent at finding all the hidden areas but doesn’t have the power to quickly the remove stuff like engine paint, I believe it’s usually called a “sonic wash” or something like that. Few shops do both. I bet if you contact the Machine shop, they would confirm it’s they use a high pressure parts washer. And your probably not their first customer to find a glitter bomb after first firing up an engine they did the machine work on. The filter catch it before it does any harm so there isn’t any problem if this the case. It would just be nice to confirm the likely source. I am only tossing out an ideas, and It sounds like everything was great when it was running so… Good luck, hopefully it’s ready for the road soon
09-06-21, 06:04 PM
2004 Lexus GS300 need help with break in process
