jmecbr900

Ok, guys....yall are confusing each other.

Silver: The WOT switch is different from the activation switch. The WOT switch is the little device with a little aluminum arm. The switch goes up by your throttle body and when the linkage literally hits it down, it makes contact and it's "engaged" or "open". The activation switch is simply the toggle switch inside the car that you flip to "arm" the nitrous system. Without it being "armed" the nitrous will never flow regardless of how hard you step on the gas. The remote bottle opener has another toggle switch which engages the mechanism which, back in the trunk, starts to open the bottle. This is used strictly as a convinience feature, so you don't have to get out of the car and go to the trunk and turn the valve on manually. You are not supposed to leave the valve on, except to use it. Nitrous sitting in the lines will cause leaks at the connections if left to change temps while in the line.

As for flowing nitrous: In a wet setup, the only difference from dry is that the nozzle has two inlets instead of one. In other words, the dry setup has a single feed nozzle which only feeds nitrous into the intake tract. The wet setup has a single fogger nozzle too, but it has two feed lines coming into it. One for nitrous, the other for fuel. You will have also two separate solenoids. One for nitrous and one for fuel. In a wet setup, you will "spray" both nitrous AND fuel at the same time. This is why in a wet setup you don't need to raise the fuel pressure for the additional fuel needed....it's already there. In a dry setup, you have get the stock injectors to flow more fuel to make it work. Follow me?

Uncle Nick: You really should have a window switch if you're 5spd. You probably have one, but don't know it. It is not good at all to spray between gears, and even worse if you spray while you miss shift and hit the limiter. Please check into that and be careful. The window switch is not that expensive and any competent shop can do it. BTW, aint it awesome when the car is properly tuned. Kinda like finding an extra present under the Christmas tree. Didn't know it was there (HP) but sure glad it is. . Which S/C are you going with for your IS??? How many pounds of boost do you plan on running? How big a shot do you have right now?

Letsride

J just to let you know I am running a window switch on my AUTO Tacoma. The reason is this...when the auto tranny shifts gears we can extend the life of the clutches by not have the spray going all the time. We spray from 4800 - 6100 BTW.

SilverLexo

I'm still wondering about a few things...

1) If it's a five speed, with a WOT switch, why would you need a window switch? Don't you take your foot off the gas when you shift, therefore stopping the flow of Nitrous as well? Seems like a window switch there would be pointless, unless the WOT switch is a type of window switch (sort of).

2) What is the window switch hooked up to so that it knows when my auto is shifting? Not the throttle, because I don't let off the gas when I think my car is about to shift (that's just dumb).

Oh and CBR900, how much for the remote bottle opener?

jucee187

I have a NX wet kit and a genx2 upgrade and a remote bottle opener.

the genx2 upgrade has a purge kit, bottle warmer, blow down tube etc.

Im still debating whether or not to install it on the GS.

questions, so once your system is tuned, then thats it?? its good forever? or will retuning be needed after a couple of months?. and what exactly is "tuning" nitrous? running your car on the dyno and measuring the afr and HP +/-??

Letsride

The window switch uses rpm pills, its a module you plug in an set the ranges like that. Bacically it is RPM driven.

Tuning nitrous is basically having the vehicle dynoed while measuring the AF/Hp ratios to verify that you are not running lean.

If you can do it every 3-6 months its good because you can use this to see how well the engine is holding up under the extra pressure.

SilverLexo

So the window switch would be application specific.
Does anyone know where to get one for the GS4?

Jucee187, it sounds like NOS isn't too bad of an idea considering we have very strong engines, and as long as it's set up right, the horsepower to $$ ratio is too insane to pass up. Slap your kit on and post your results.

SilverLexo

I found out a little bit about the Walbro fuel pumps they offer for the GS400.

1) It looks like these are in-tank pumps (does this make install difficult?)
2) There is a 190 l/hr pump and a 255 l/hr pump (which capacity should I be looking for, using nitrous, but not FI)
3) There is a high pressure option for each model, which pushes fuel at 50psi (Should I get the high pressure model, or standard?)

jmecbr900

Alright, sorry for the delay on getting back here.

Ok, first Letsride is absolutely correct on his description of the window switch. The switch is usually set up for a high/low situation. In other words, it's so it DOESN'T come on below X rpm as well as it DOESN"T come on at Y rpm. Hence the "window" of rpms. It uses a coil pick up to measure the rpms. Pretty simple device. Also very easy to burn up one. Got to be careful with the electrical connections. You use it to stay off the limiter in case of a miss shift. If you bounce off the limiter while spraying......bad stuff happens.

You guys are correct, dollar vs HP figures, nitrous is hard to beat. It does have its disadvantages though. You can only use it in bursts of 15 secs max. You are at the mercy of bottle pressure (which can be controlled as explained earlier) and volume (how much is left. When you run out, you run out). You also have to keep an eye on EGT temps, as signs of leaness. You have to keep an eye on fuel pressure, to ward off leaness. Just playing devils advocate here.

As for the pump: The walbro 255lph high volume is going to be the best one. The install should be straight forward plug and play. The pump is identical outside as the oem one. I'm not sure on the Lex, but on my Maxima I had to take the back seat cushion out and there is a plate that gets unscrewed and you have direct access into the gas tank. I would also advice, from changing out multiple pumps before, to wait until the tank is as low as possible to do the swap. You WILL scratch your hands up. Gas is the LAST place you want cut up hands to be in. Also, VERY IMPORTANT.....work in a well ventilated area. DO NOT use anything that could ignite the fumes. It is VERY DANGEROUS, so be careful. It's not rocket science, but I wouldn't want anyone hurt.

BTW, Silver....very good advice in the other thread to the gentleman about his fuel pump. Why pay the dealer that kind of money when he could do it for less than 1/3.

jcramair1

jmecbr900 you def know your nitrous. Very well said, you sure are an asset to this forum. You should become the Tech Admin for clublexus. Are you a tuner/mechanic?

jmecbr900

Thank you sir.

I'm not a mechanic now, but I was a mechanic when I was younger. I worked as a mechanic when I was in college. I love cars and constantly read a lot of car literature. I experimented with nitrous almost by myself. None of my buddies ever had it or wanted it. They were all "no replacement for displacement" kinda guys . So I had to read and read and read before I dove in with both feet into the fire. I made mistakes, luckily it didn't cost me terribly so I learned good lessons from them. I learned a lot of tuning from talking to guys that know their stuff. Tuning is really an art. Its knowing a lot of theories and then being able to get the car to do something related to those theories. If you think about it, modding cars is really a pioneering sport. Somebody has to try it once, figure out how to make it work, and then tell others about it. As you can see, I have NO problems telling people anything, especially if I feel comfortable about the subject.


As for admin....That's really not up to me obviously, but I would help anyone out either way. Thanks for the vote of confidence.

jmecbr900

The NX Express kits are very good kits, especially with the gen2 upgrade. The advantage of the NX kits is that there is very little tuning necessary to stay on the safe side. Most of the tuning is done by the manufacturer already. They require no additional fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or additional jets. Fogger nozzles are changed out to achieve different HP levels. It is a very good kit for what you guys are all talking about doing.....X amount of HP, in an occasional run.

I suspect you know what the purge, warmer, and blow down tube are for.

SilverLexo

I am wondering if a Jacobs Nitrous Controller (or similar product) would work on the GS, and if it is cheaper and safer than putting in a window switch, FPR, and fuel pump. Anyone running a nitrous controller on their GS?

jmecbr900

I would not recommend the Jacobs, personally. If you are really looking into a controller, you should consider the NOS one. It is more variable and more reliable. It costs about the same too. Personally, unless you are going to use a "big" shot, you don't need either one.

Neither controller will work as a window switch. The window switch is basically a relay that cycles on/off at certain rpms. That's all. Nothing fancy. The controllers on the other hand are more elaborate. They have functions such as % @ certain rpm, flow cut off, flow monitor, etc. It is really a tool for people looking to run big shots but control traction at the same time. IMO, it's not worth the $300-500 you're gonna have to pay for that. Now, if you were running a 200 shot direct port nitrous, I could see needing some kind of traction control. The controllers really are useful to control the severe shock of bigger shots when they are engaged.

Personally if I was to run any nitrous in my GS at all, I would opt to use a single fogger WET setup. It's substantially cheaper and easier to tune, you can run 125 shot easily in our cars, no need for a FPR, no need for bigger injectors, just possibly a bigger pump as a pre-caution but that too is not mandatory because you don't have to raise fuel levels to compensate for the nitrous (i.e. fuel pressure). You can find one in good 'ol EBay for aroud $500-600 new shipped to your front door. Take about 5-6 hours of your weekend in your garage to install. It's not a hard install, as long as you follow directions well.

That's just my .02 on that.

I love talking about nitrous.... Keep the questions coming.

UncleNick

Yes, you are correct sir, I do have a "window switch" per say. It runs off rpm with "pills" if I in the event do indeed go past my desingated rpm, she will spray no more. Just a little safety precaution, I have seen hoods come off with Nitrous backfires That is not a pretty sight!

SilverLexo

Glad you like talking about it, because I have more questions, and love the info

How does a single fogger wet kit work? I know that the standard wet kit would inject nitrous with the injectors, so you'd have 8 foggers on a gs4, but how does a single fogger kit administer the nitrous? I thought only dry kits ran a single fogger.