Letsride

A single fogger uses a setup which has a sinlgle fogger plumbed into the intake tube. If feeds both Nitrous and fuel through the same unit. A dry setup is similar but does not inject fuel.

jmecbr900

No no no. Ok, let me give you the quick version of the full story (oximoron?).

Dry kit: A nitrous dry kit is any kit that uses a single fogger nozzle to inject nitrous ONLY. It will require the raising of the stock fuel pressure level to add the additional fuel necessary to run the system. In other words, when the system is pumping nitrous in....you will need additional fuel to go with it. That additional fuel will come from the stock injectors being told to spit out more fuel. This is done by raising the fuel pressure the injectors "see". If you decide to run more than a 75 shot, you will need an external FPR to control the amount of pressure you want being pumped in while under nitrous. You will also need, at that level, a larger fuel pump. The stock fuel pump can not usually handle the demands for higher volumes for sustained periods of time. It also does not flow as much fuel as a larger aftermarket one would. This is done in order to avoid a "lean" mixture. A lean mixture WILL blow your engine. Below a 75 shot, enough fuel is usually there already because your system will only work at WOT. Above 75 shot, you will also need to run 1 step colder plugs. This is done to avoid detonation. You will need to always frequently inspect the spark plugs for signs of detonation, usually found on the electrode of the spark plug.

Wet kit: A "wet" kit is very similar to the dry kit above except for a few things. First off, the wet kit has a single nozzle, but this nozzle has 2 inlets instead of just one. 1 for the nitrous, 1 for fuel. BOTH are injected at the same time. This leads to the second difference: no need to raise fuel pressure. Since fuel is injected at the same time, if the proper amount of both (nitrous and fuel) is injected, there is no need for additional "tuning". The car runs on stock fuel pressures. Usually, it's not necessary to change out the fuel pump although it would never hurt and would serve as a good precautionary measure. It is a good idea to run 1 step colder plugs in this case too, because detonation usually has more to do with octane/timing than anything else.

Dry kits are good for levels up to about 100HP. Above that level, it becomes hard for fuel to be added in the amounts necessary to keep up. The wet kit is easier to "tune" but also has been associated with overly rich systems due to it's inability to regulate fuel pressure. This only happens with older systems, as newer systems are far more advanced out of the box. NX express and ZEX make very good plug and play wet systems, while I would only recommend NOS as a dry system.

As far as what you were eluding to above....the only system which uses a fogger per cylinder is called a DIRECT PORT INJECTION SYSTEM or DPI. This is extremely more complex and requires the tapping and drilling of the intake manifold to put the nozzles thru. There is an alternative to drilling which is called NOS's Nozzle sytem. This system uses a neat fitting which goes between the stock fuel injector and the manifold making it possible to "inject" both nitrous and fuel just as you would in a regular DPI system except w/o the need for hard lines and drilling. NX express just copied the same setup. These plug and play versions of DPI usually start somewhere on the other side of $1000 to start. The "true" DPI systems cost that and much more because it is very labor intensive to manually custom bend hard lines to fit each manifold and each car. It also requires the use of double the number of jets of any system since you have individual nozzles per cylinder. Jets can run expensive and are sometimes hard to find.

If I get a chance, I'll upload some pics of my DPI system in my other car so you can get a visual on it. Hope this helps.

SilverLexo

Very helpful...thanks. Yes I was under the imperession that the only wet kit was DPI. I think I might hold off on getting my friend's kit because teh single shot wet sounds like the safest, most reliable way to go.
So do you think that on a single port wet system, the fuel pressure will not be robbed from the inectors by tapping a line to the intake? Honestly, since the Walbro pump is so cheap, I'm going to put one in just for good measure. My only worry about the walbro pump is that I will put my fuel economy way down, unless that is not true.

jmecbr900

There's nothing wrong with the dry kit either, so long as you stay in the lower power levels.

As for fuel pressure, if you opt to go with the walbro pump, you will never have issues with not enough fuel out of the PUMP. The pump is the exact same that they build for makers like Holley. It is rated at 255lph, plenty for what you want.

There will be 0 difference in fuel economy due to the pump. You will probably be a little more apt to jump on it if you install a nitrous system, but that is the only way fuel economy will be affected otherwise. The Walbro will do exactly what the oem unit does all the time except when you need it to pump more. Then and only then will the Walbro show it's colors and give you the fuel you need w/o ever getting tired. As you can tell, I swear by it.

Keep in mind that this going to be an instantaneous "boost" in performance. This is NOT designed to be held down for 15 mins like in the "fast and furious". This is only going to be for that 15 sec burst of speed. 75 HP "boost" is pretty good considering that means about 60HP to the ground. That's a good bit. It's enough to be felt. Our cars should have no problems, all other things being correct, in handling about 150 shot. I say that because in my 3.0L 6 cyl maxima, I've been running 125 shot on all stock internals for a while. So far no signs of problems. 150 should be plenty of nitrous for you to be where you want to go.

If you NEED more than 150 shot.....you're biting off more than you can chew.

If you are really wanting to go wet, check into the the systems I mentioned. If I had to choose between the NX express and the ZEX, I would go with the NX. I've heard a lot of good things about it. I can't say first hand because the system I use is all NOS.

LexFather

Damn I learned a lot here.

SilverLexo

Me too, thanks cbr!! I can't think of anymore questions, so I guess it's time to start collecting parts and doing some install.

Hey 1SICKLEX...nice ride man!! I think I'm gonna trade my lex for a focus with two roof mounted 1000lb naaaawwwsss bottles.

CBR, hurry and post those pics of your DPI system...I need some motivation here.

BayGS2200

this thread is definately top 5
very good information
thanx
i was for the longest time pretty confused as to what was what in nitrous
NX DPI looks awfully tempting
150 shot seems to be the max you could do with stock internals, but how bout tranny?
other than tc,lsd,valve body what else could you do to put the extra power to the ground?
pretty much i'll be using nitrous at the track only, maybe 3-5 times a year........any need to worry with 150 shot?

jmecbr900

Ok, here you go:

Pic of the DPI setup from the side:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

Pic of the DPI setup from above:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

(notice at the top right hand corner of the pic attached to the TB....that is the WOT switch I told you guys about. The linkage hits it and makes contact @ WOT.)

Pic of the DPI from further out:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

(If you follow the large blue hose, you will see the FPR which has a gauge attached. If you follow the small blue hose going towards the back firewall....that's the purge.)

The car itself:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

(notice the nice 4x4 look. I lowered it shortly after that. Also notice the "sleeper" theme. The car is basically stock looking.)

The dash and AFC location:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

Another view of the DPI:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

(in this pic you can clearly see the WOT switch up on the TB itself, notice how it would be activated. You can also see both solenoids, 1 fuel 1 nitrous. )

My other Baby:

https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...cat=500&page=1

(this one is of one of my other loves. She's faster than she looks. It's got a couple of go fast goodies that are, of course, hidden in there. It's a lot of fun to ride and really loud. BTW, excuse the messy garage. It doesn't usually look like that.)

I've got a million more, but I won't bore you guys with anymore. If there are any parts or questions that were not clarified by the pics, feel free to let me know. I learned by asking and reading, so I have no problem answering any questions anyone has.

What do you guys think?

Letsride

Beefier clutch packs, larger external transmission cooler to name a few....

jmecbr900

Thanks for the compliment.

150 shot is about a max for stock internals, but honestly I would suggest starting substantially lower. 75 shot is a good starting point because it leaves a lot more room for error. It will give you power you can feel and it does make a difference, but you won't be on the ragged edge. Any kit worth having is adjustable for the amount of power possible. Usually the starting point is 50Hp, but that honestly is not enough to feel in the seat of the pants as would the 75 shot. Most manufacturers "recommend" 60, 75, & 125 as the steps to take for a V-8. Keep in mind we don't have Detroit Iron Blocks, so we're a little more limited to the amounts of "boost" the block/engine is going to hold. Besides, we're also going to be limited because of timing. We can't retard it easily.

As for the tranny: Our trannies in good condition are said to hold a lot of power. If you upgrade the TC and valve body, you will not have too many worries I feel. I have the TC in my car and am at 368HP @ wheels w/o any problems so far. Thats over 450HP at the tranny. Take that for what it's worth.

I would still start with a 75 shot, get used to it, learn as much as you can about it, and THEN start stepping up the HP. If you'd like, I can give you a couple of books you can pick up at the bookstore that will give you very detailed info on every part of the system. From what nitrous is, to why it works, what to look out for, and detailed installation theories. Or you could just ask, I'd be happy to try and answer any questions you have.

jmecbr900

I totally agree, except the beefier clutch packs to build a stronger tranny are going to be harder to find. Unless you know of somewhere, do you? I called Level 10 and they wouldn't give me any info aside from telling me to send them a bunch of money and they'd build me one....

SilverLexo

jmecbr900, that is one sick nissan! And now I want a DPI system, but don't think I'll actually do it.
However, you have definately encouraged me to really get set up with nitrous. I'm seriously looking into getting a single wet system. With the precautions you've given us and the bottom line hp/dollar, I can't resist it. Give me a month... Thanks again for all your great advice!!

jmecbr900

Thank you.

Anytime you need anything that I can help with, don't hesitate to let me know.

That goes for anyone else too.

SilverLexo

jmecbr900,
I just realized the srt &/or borla I installed was originally from you. I love the "grunt" my lex now makes, now to add some "ssssssssss". You've helped out even more than I origianlly thought. I guess I'll at least owe you some pics & dyno results when I'm done.

BayGS2200

thanx for the pix............the set up looks clean but intimidating


what do you use the afc for, in you car?