jmecbr900

Sooooo, you bought it huh??? I loved mine and even thought about keeping it, but figured someone should get use out of it instead of being up on the wall here at the house like all the other oem parts. It's too cool to keep in the scrap pile. I thought about you guys the other day when I was looking back for some info in the latest SuperStreet mag. In the mag on page 75 it has a small pic of the NX express F&F kit. On page 54 it has the NOS kit (wet), and finally on page 63 it has the ZEX kit pictured. All in the November issue that has the Cusco WRX on the cover. It has each one's website on the ads. As I said before, you are probably going to get the best prices in places like ebay. Be careful and check out who you buy from first, but you will get the best prices there.

airtrackk: I use the AFC on the Maxima and the AFCII on the Lex for the same reason: adjustment to the air/fuel. On both cars, the only way to adjust that is thru the AFC's. The afc takes the signal from the stock MAF and "changes" it based on several factors and sends it to the stock ecu as new value. In other words, the AFC goes in between the MAF and the ECU and it tricks the ECU into thinking there is more/less air than there actually is and thereby making the ecu adjust the fuel accordingly. When I first installed my S/C on the Lex, it was running super rich. So much so that I had a CEL on all the time. We would reset it, but the literally a minute later it would come back on. The code? Too rich. I installed the AFCII and dyno tuned it...no more codes, no more CEL. I also gained a lot of HP because the car was so rich it was actually LOSING HP. My first pull with the car running rich and the S/C on was 286HP. After 3 hours of tuning with the AFC, we ended up at 352HP. I am now at 368 with a smaller pulley and tuned AFC. AFC is a good tool to tune on the fly from inside the car. There are more elaborate systems both piggy back and stand-alone, but they're infinitely more complicated to program/tune and exponentially more expensive.

BTW, the afc in the maxima is untuned, but the car still ran a 13.3@108mph on street tires, full stereo system, spare, full leather interior, 1/2 a tank of gas, and my big ol butt driving. FWD cars are so much more sensitive to traction that if I would have had a little better traction out of the line.....that same 13.3 pass would have netted almost a 1/2 to a full sec faster. The fastest street max is in the low 12's with similar trap speeds. He too is nitrous powered. I've seen a lot smaller cars run 105-110 traps when the run in the 11's. Good trap speed like that means the car was still accelerating hard at the end. It's a fun car. I loved spanking cocky mouthy domestic boys that think because they have flowmasters on a rustang, they got 50 more HP to the ground. The real funny thing about that car is the fact that I didn't put my first nitrous kit on it until AFTER the car already had 160K miles. The car was driven every single day everywhere I went. There's a video on another forum of the car spanking a few cars, including a WRX, TT 300Zx, turbo integra, etc. Most were taken when I had a single fogger setup, but one (against the WRX) was with the DPI setup.

BayGS2200

you are quickly becoming our tech idol..........hehehe
i like that sleeper theme on the max.........at a recent and my first trip at the track i felt the same thing as you do with domestic boys giving you the look as if they know they own you, but it must feel really good to prove them wrong in a big way huh?
i'm certain that i'll do the afc at the same time as lsd/tc/valve body upgrade
i'll post dyno numbers before and after
sean
btw what kind of valve body upgrade do ya have?

jmecbr900

I have a custom valve body mod on my Max.

I made contact with a guy in Texas that has his own shop. I sent him my oem one AFTER he sent me a modified one. Usually it doesn't happen that way (they usually want you to send them yours and then they ship you one back later) but since we talked, he agreed to send me one and then I send him mine back. I did the drop and replace the same day. That was another ordeal. After replacing the VB and filling the tranny with very expensive synthetic fluid....The car wouldn't shift out of 2nd gear. Long story short...after dropping the VB and all it's expensive synthetic fluid 3X on a SUNDAY...it ended up being a .02 seal that was the problem. Luckily I found the ONLY tranny shop open on Sunday and they sold me the entire rebuild kit just so I could get a .02 cent seal the size of a quarter.

It was fun though. The valve body in that car is pretty violent. Even w/o stepping on it, it chirps the 1-2 shift everytime. It hits hard, but that's the way I wanted it. I blew up 3 trannies in 6 mos. I ended up with beefier clutch packs, Level 10 TC, custom VB, and hayden cooler. So far, it has held up. Unfortunately, the car has had electrical gremlins for almost a year now. I'm probably going to rip out the wire harness and go with a stand-alone because I think the problem is somewhere inside the main harness. Auto's are more consistent at the track, but they are also harder (i.e. more expensive) to make stronger.

mp311mp

....one of the techs at the Lexus dealership that i work at wants me to get the $1,200 NOSzle kit when my car gets back from the body shop.....have you heard anything about this direct nitrous kit jmecbr900 ???

mp311mp

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...NS/NOSzle.html

SilverLexo

That would be Bad azzzz.....just remember that you will still need all the gadgets to run safe. I got a semi-used wet nitrous kit for $200, the total after all the "peace of mind" accessories (Air/Fuel controller, remote bottle opener, fuel pressure switch, WOT switch, RPM switch, bottle opener, hi pressure fuel pump, etc etc) is over $1200, so you may be looking at well over $2k, but still very worth the horse power, IMHO. I'm still working on getting my kit fully ready.

jmecbr900

mp3: The NOSzle DPI setup is awesome. Top-of-the line. It makes it so much easier and fool proof compared to drill and tapping the intake manifold. It is the same idea behind any direct port setup. You will be introducing N2O and fuel directly to each cylinder. This has many advantages; no fuel puddling in the intake tract, more even distribution, more power. Did I mention more power?????

The neat thing about this setup is that it also uses soft lines vs hard lines. The advantage there is you don't have to get creative and have extensive skills to hand bend hard nitrous/fuel lines to make it look nice. This system uses soft lines that can go just about anywhere and therefore are 100x easier to install. This system also allows for much more power on tap.

For us 8cyl folks, there are really no disadvantages. The one disadvantage, if any, would be the fact that you can't turn DOWN the juice as easily as a single fogger setup. Think about this: You will have 8 nitrous jets and 8 fuel jets. The size, also referred to as orafice, of the jet determines how much of anything goes thru. The combo of X size N2O and Y size fuel = Z amt of HP. Problem with a DPI is that smaller sizes are limited in both supply and availability. So, a rule of thumb is usually that a DPI is not easily turned down below 75 HP w/o running into tuning problems. This is really the only weakness I see with any DPI setup. If you and your car can handle 75 shot +, then there are zero problems.

Another sweet thing about this is that you can remove any traces of EVER having any N2O in the car. This is sweet when you think about the resale value of your car. Personally, I was into the N2O scene way before this product ever came out, so I had to jump into the fire with both feet. Mine is old school drilled and tapped. If were to ever sell the car, I would have to find a replacement intake manifold to eliminate traces of N2O use. With this setup, I could have avoided all that totally. You simply reverse the install process and take the equipment out. No traces at all of it being there. Pretty sweet IMO.

Can yall tell I like this option???? It is not cheap by any means. As Silver mentioned, the price of the equipment should simply be considered the price for admission not a TOTAL price. You will need additional equipment to keep both you and the car safe. Gauges, fuel pump, bottle heater, etc. All cost money. Gauges are very expensive. You should ALWAYS use electrical vs mechanical. They are more expensive for a reason. You certainly don't want any dangerous fluids coming back into the cabin of the car to the gauge. It's not worth the savings nor the possible hassle IMO. Imagine a fuel or nitrous leak inside the cabin of the car. You have to start from the back and work your way up to trace the leak. A PITA IMO. Pump is as plug and play as they get, so it's not bad at all. Additional N2O equipment can be had easily thru such places as Summit, Jegs, or even Ebay. All are on-line sources you can point and click and get your equipment.

Any other questions?

roenick7

I got a manifold with the direct port done allready, bottle (10lb)... The plumbing will fit under a USTB.
500.00 cost me 4000.00

roenick7

these are hard lines and the lean cylinder on the GS 400 was the 2nd from the back on the passanger side. This needed a NOS nozzel smaller than all the rest. On the GS 400 @ std fuel pressure and stock pump the Fuel was @ .014 adn the NOS was @ 0.019 =130hp 0.020-0.021 (best) and 0.022 DO NOT GO OVER 0.022

I think it was 0.022 not .22 but it has been awhile. Oh yeah if you want to shoot power all the time get a SRT S/C if you can find one DO NOT GET THE RMM. Oh yeah I sent 3000.00 on dyno time to get everything tuned you will need a POWERFULL ECU manipulator. Split second did min and I have the fuel and timing map done for the NOS. (50hrs) It was the only one that could manipulate VVTI for the timing.

Good luck

jmecbr900

Roenick, extremely sick setup.....

I don't think that mp3 is going to run both FI and nitrous. Do you think the NOSzle setup won't work in the GS? I think you can still change out the jets just like mine and your hard lined setups. Right? I think so. Are you saying to watch out for that cyl and adjust the jets to the sizes you mentioned?

Have you dyno'd your car with both the FI and the N2O? What pulley are you using on the S/C? What did you say you were using as EMS, custom flashed ecu?

roenick7

Yes you need to use a smaller nozzel in the cylinder that runs hot. I used the same fuel nozzel in all. Whatever Nozzel you decide on the NOS use one size smaller on the cylinder that has peper looking stuff on the spark plugs. pull the plugs every time you run NOS and look at the plugs right away If you drive 3 miles after you will fog the plugs so they will be harder to read. Bring the tools with you and plan on 45 minutes.

YES you need to flash the ECU I used Split Second in Irvine CA they were able to controll the fuel and timing.

I ran 360 RWHP with the S/C
I ran up to 389RWHP and 383 RWTQ with the NOS

NOT AT THE SAME TIME. ONLY ONCE AND BLEW THE RINGS OFF THE PISTONS
11,000 later I took of the NOS and only ran the S/C. So I still have the NOS set up in storage.

Lvangundy

What about mixing fuel and N20 in the manifold - isn't that risky? (I.E. wet setup)

jmecbr900

Roenick: I follow. So you were running one or the other but NOT both at the same time. Got it. You give very good advice about monitoring the plugs.

For those that don't know, Roenick brings up a very good point. Spark plugs HAVE TO be closely monitored when using Nitrous. If any changes appear, there is trouble a foot. If specks appear on the electrode (the white part near the tip you gap), that is a bad bad sign of detonation. You wanna stop spraying on the spot until you find the reason for detonation. If you spray and detonate too much, you WILL HURT THE ENGINE. The way to correctly monitor the spark plugs is to spray and literally check the plugs right afterwards. As Roenick suggested, you may have to just bite the bullet and take some tools with you and do it on the road you're testing. Reason for such extreme is that if you spray and run the car back home, the normal combustion will eventually "erase" those specks and so you think everything is A-OK. Once the system is properly tuned on the dyno, you still will have to monitor your plugs. Depending on your use, it may not be needed that often.

Nitrous is like any other radical car mod. You have to continue maintaining it or it will break something on your car.

Roenick, can you PM me the phone number to Split Second? Please. I'm really interested in talking to them about my setup (which is very close to yours) and seeing if they can help me with some ideas I have for upgrading it. Thanks.

jmecbr900

No sir, it isn't. As long as all the things we've been mentioning are followed.

Basically, as long as you don't have a backfire, detonation, or puddling....you're intake manifold will be just fine. As a matter of fact, nitrous has some inherent qualities which make it possible for it to actually CLEAN the inside of the manifold itself. It's not like you're gonna use it for that purpose, but it is a by-product of spraying.

mp311mp

i have the inline 6, not the v8, so i presume, if any, i would run into a different bunch of problems, right??
and what other 'accessories' are MANDITORY if i purchace and install this kit?
thanks