nuke78

Hello everyone, I have recently eliminated my one and only code : P1349, VVT-I system malfunction (bank 1).

The following is a guide to diagnosing any P1349 code with a 2JZ GE motor.

Initial symptoms :
Lack of torque
frequent downshifting on inclines
Check Engine light
Poor gas pedal response
Wobbling VVTI gear (visibly rocking back and forth slightly when idling, slightly further out from engine compared to exhaust cam gear - initially was deemed un-important)

Unlike many instances of P1349, this case was without any blaring signs of engine trouble- there was no noticeable misbehaving idling, or rough running. Simply put it seemed like there was nothing wrong.

Step 1: Check OCV banjo bolt and filter. Front top right point of motor, slightly concealed by the top plastic engine cover. Sits right below the OCV solenoid (cylinder shaped part with a single vertical bolt and a horizontally placed electrical connection). The banjo bolt serves as an oil passage to supply engine oil pressure from the connected hardline. There are several good recommendations to follow for specific steps and procedures on youtube or here in the forums
(Search: 2JZ VVTI banjo oil filter cleaning)

Step 2: diagnose and replace OCV solenoid as needed. You can test the OCV valve manually with a 12V ground and lead, directly to the two connections on the valve. Advanced code readers can actuate the solenoid with the use of the ECU. If idle is very rough when actuating manually, the problem lies either in your wiring, or (rarely) a bad ECU. If the idle remains the same, then it’s likely that the solenoid is bad, and needs to be replaced (extremely easy job). If it is very obvious that the solenoid is working - whether you can hear it or see it, removed from the car actuating, then your issue could be related to oil pressure not reaching the solenoid.

Step 3: check for oil pressure to arrive at the solenoid’s position. with the solenoid removed, and the banjo bolt and filter in place, you can crank the engine a very small amount to see if oil starts coming from the solenoid’s unoccupied position. I would recommend being very careful and un plugging the EFI fuse, as well as placing a rag just to be ready, sometimes a LOT of oil will come out. If there is no oil coming through, the line is plugged up somewhere either in or before the hardline. There is another banjo bolt on the bottom of the hardline - it looks almost identical to the one for the engine head, although this one needs to have a one-way valve for oil to only go up and not back down. If these banjo bolts are flipped (which is very easy to oversee) the oil will be blocked by the one way valve in the wrong position. If the banjo bolts are correctly installed, and oil pressure is reaching the solenoid’s position, the problem is after the solenoid, and could be the oil passage in the front intake cam cap - these can be clogged by too much RTV when installing the cam cap. Another possible situation, which I happened to have, is an issue with the VVTI gear itself, or the way it is mounted, or rather how it is incorrectly mounted or assembled.

Step 4: Replace or rebuild VVTI gear. These are expensive, and i’m talking more than 200$. Now, you could buy a new one (which is ultimately the better option) or rebuild the cam gear with fresh O rings. This is where it gets tricky, it quickly becomes a timing job. My method, was to order new O rings on Ebay, and to remove the VVTI gear, without removing any engine accessories or even the accessory belt. This is very easily possible to do, There are several guides on how to do this correctly on YouTube, but do be careful about this as an error could cause engine failure - it is required to remove the timing belt partially, and you’ll need to time your engine again. My motivation to attack at this angle was a discovery of another similar case (also on youtube) where the VVTI gear was incorrectly assembled internally by someone doing it DIY like ourselves, simply put.. USER ERROR! The gear seemed to be assembled correctly, I lost hope a bit.

Step 5: As previously mentioned, my VVTI gear was wobbling at idle with the timing cover of for inspection. It’s worth to add that the gear was difficult to center on the camshaft’s guide (a little round steel bump on the end) and it’s possible the pulley was not seated correctly - it seemed to sit too far out from the engine! After re-assembly, and about a half hour or trying, I was satisfied with the alignment of the pulley.

After first start up, the pulley was no longer wobbling what so ever, and the engine once again worked, although I didn’t have access to a scanner to clear the code. After driving home and leaving a few hours later to use a scanner, started the GS and voila! The light cleared by itself, after driving only 2kms and parking for a bit!

In conclusion, I believe that the pulley not being seated correctly, it did not allow the oil pressure to reach the VVTI gear’s internals. This was a very specific case, and should not occur by itself, but rather in-competent mechanics, so do be sure to triple check your work!

Thanks for reading,
-Nuke

Bigwillie

Beautiful.
Thanks

Mine started slowly before any work was done.....
I have changed the solenoid with two new and my original. I did the 12v direct to the solenoid on all while running and nothing happens. I can hear the solenoid engaging (click).... but the engine continues to run the same regardless.
Can the GEAR its self be bad? I had it apart and wiped it down, replaced the o-ring.
I have thrown parts at this:
Cleaned the filter
changed the ecu
checked the cam position sensor (1098ohms)
verified oil flow into the VVT (messy) by removing the cap on the VVT

Have checked the Solenoid location for oil flow.

Thanks so much.
BJ

nuke78

Hi! You are correct, the most obvious possible problem is the VVTI gear itself. I must ask if you followed proper instructions when re-assembling the gear DIY style. It is possible to place the small gear inside the wrong way around. Very easy to slide it in backwards, inside of the medium gear, which is inside of the main large gear. There’s an amazing youtube video about this ( ) (12:00-13:20) that shows the possible error that can be made very easily during assembly. This will cause the gear to be unable to offset itself from the cam, producing no change to engine characteristics even with oil pressure properly supplied. Keep me updated, I feel your pain so I’ll try to give my best insight.

Best of luck,
Nuke

Bigwillie

yes i was aware of that

mine started BEFORE and work was attempted. So, something clogged or quit working.

B