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TRD start/stop. It literally is a 5min or so job to do the work. For me, I didn't have trim removal tools but fixed that after a quick trip to the store.
Thanks again Josh @ Meraki, PPE Engineering and BossMoss. Signed delivery today and have install app Monday 8am. PPE switch style dual mode (valved) exhaust w/ high flow cats, black mufflers and powder coated tips...teaser
Koni
I like how ARH does the 4 to 1 collector.
What was your initial thought of the quality?
The welds & flange transitions on the mid pipe I had from them was so so. But that aside, I actually liked the way it sounded the best out of all 3 mid pipes I’ve had. Curious what your feed back will be once installed.
Sorry to hear yours didn't turn out that good considering American Racing Headers are specialist at what they do. As for mine, the welds are great and the bends are totally amazing. The shop I took to ceramic coat the headers the owner of the shop just sat there and admired the headers for quite awhile, it was almost comical. This is a guy who sees all sorts of headers day in day out for ceramic coating.
Whole ceramic process will take two weeks, most of it is blasting the headers to get rid of all oils and surface contaminants for proper adhesion. I will report back once I pick them up and my thoughts after install.
I put new front Rotors and pads on mine. Just went with factory Lexus parts. I could feel the last few drives my brakes felt a little off. Kind of a soft on the pedal feel. The pad light had not kicked in so I figured it was maybe in my head. Then after my last drive on Highway 121 and 128 through Napa County I really felt like my brakes were not as good as drives past. Like they were loosing their initial bite when you first hit the pedal. So when I got home I looked at them and the front left rotor was worn through down to the slots, they were almost gone. I immediately ordered rotors and pads.
I want to do a full upgrade on pads and rotors but that will have to wait.
Guess you lost the de-gassing with no slots, thus poor pad bite.
You bleed brakes? Definitely recommend a quick bleeding of at least the front calipers. Just a few ounces is all that’s necessary to get rid of the fluid closest to the caliper.
When the pad material is almost gone, you lost the pad mass that helps cool too.
Too bad you didn’t get aftermarket rotors. There’s a decent power gain from the lighter rotors. I remember last year I had to put oem rotors on for one track day and the car drove totally different. Crazy how much response gain from losing just a few lbs of rotational weight. The improvement in the shock’s travel/response was noticeable too.
I know how you like to do mountain drives. Two piece rotors would serve you well.
Modern pads don't de-gas. Outgassing brake pads died in the 70's. Also, flat rotors work just as well as slotted rotors and are less likely to crack, losing the slots won't impact extended brake performance, but your reserve heat capacity is significantly less when you are below minimum thickness.
If the slots are gone, the discs are below minimum thickness, AMHIK. You lost a lot of heat capacity with all the metal removed by wear, so the brakes would feel a little different, but it shouldn't be huge on a public road, even on 128 around Berryessa. If you can fade these brakes street driving you're doing something really bad. They have amazing heat capacity and are actually pretty challenging to bed in because of it.
I do want 2 piece rotors. I also want lighter wheels and a Braille battery. But being retired leaves me on more of a fixed income and so I went with factory parts. I will do the upgrades hopefully within a year or so.
I did not bleed my brakes.
My brakes never faded, or pulled or did anything really bad. It felt like initial bite in was a little lower. I could feel it when I first hit the pedal, but once you got braking it stopped fine. This caused me to look at the rotors I saw how low they were and immediately replaced them and the pads. . Safety first!
Lowered the vehicle on Swift Springs 2 weeks ago. The diamond black 20" te37s just came in, hoping to have tires on them by Saturday. Will post pics then.
I didn’t mean the pads itself degassing.
Aren’t the slots suppose to allow the air between the rotor and pads to escape?
I believe that is still degassing. There are two schools of thought, some say degassing is still an issue that can be resolved by slotted and or drilled rotors while others believe modern brake pads nowadays don't really face this issue of evacuating gases and water between disc and brake pad surface. The jury is still out on that one.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Modern pads don't de-gas. Outgassing brake pads died in the 70's. Also, flat rotors work just as well as slotted rotors and are less likely to crack, losing the slots won't impact extended brake performance, but your reserve heat capacity is significantly less when you are below minimum thickness.
Slotted disc brakes don't have as major issues with cracking as drilled ones do. Drilled rotors are very good at cooling but that in itself is their Achilles heel. The drilled rotors especially after hard braking at the track will cool so rapidly around the holes suffering thermal shock which causes cracking. Slotted rotors are far less susceptible to this thermal shocks.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Truth be told they're more for appearance than anything.
My understanding is that the most significant advantage of slotted rotors is to prevent the brake pads from glazing and hardening caused by frictional heat. The slots on the disk continuously refresh the brake pad surface by shaving the outer most surface and present a fresher brake pad. This will help with consistent frictional performance and good initial bite.
I believe this is the issue CAHWY was facing, his slots were pretty much gone his pads became glazed and therefore lost that good initial bite and braking consistency.
I doubt GT3 and GTD Race cars would all be sporting AP J hook rotors (with their signature J hook slots) just for looks.
You'd be surprised what racers run because their sponsors provided something they didn't have to pay for, and nothing beats free for a consumable. The other important thing about racing is, some items are run without concern for replacement cost because they're expected to last only a little while. Drag racers drill the crap out of their discs to save weight knowing full well they only have one important stop to accomplish.
Despite popular opinion, real racers run the smallest, lightest discs they can for the track they're running. No point in dragging more useless weight around the circuit if it isn't necessary.
Finally - reread what you said - slotted discs wear brake pads faster by the logic you presented. If you really think it's possible to glaze the pads on an RC F or GS F with a street drive, you're dreaming. It's a PITA just to bed pads with these brakes because they absorb so much heat so fast it isn't funny.
Driving the grand-kids to kindergarten school will not glaze the pads but Lexus were designing a car that could be ran on the street and track. Having said that any car with slotted rotors would benefit from having the refreshed brake pad surface for that nice initial bite regardless of use.
In CAHWY's case he more than likely glazed his brake pads considering he likes doing mountain runs and his rotors were quite worn therefore not dissipating as much heat off the brakes.
Yes, slotted rotors will always wear brake pads faster than flat rotors.
06-29-19, 01:08 PM
