JCtx

Problem is the only way to do it right is with new springs, and nobody makes them with just 1/2 drop. And even if they were offered, I'd only do it if spring rate was the same as stock, to minimize the negative effects. Remember the suspension is an entire system, where if you change one thing, the rest doesn't remain the same. As a side comment, wheels/tires are also considered part of the suspension system, since suspension components need to be strong enough to handle the (unsprung) weight of each wheel and tire at a specific offset. And shocks are chosen based on total unsprung weight and tire sidewall stiffness. Change any of that and you COULD be not only altering the handing in a negative way, but also adding extra stress/wear to other suspension components like wheel bearings, suspension bushings, etc. In other words, a car that looks great, but handles worse than before (form before function). That's why I don't mess with any of that anymore. And I'm an engineer and a tinkerer, but with suspension and engine, nobody has the capacity of a manufacturer to test everything as an entire system, so I leave those 2 alone. Even a different intake changes air flow, which can affect how the sensors determine AFRs at certain rpm ranges, and make the engine run lean (you'd need an expert tuner with the right equipment to detect that, the ability to alter the ECU, AND knowing you just kissed your powertrain warranty goodbye for -illegally- tampering with the ECU). That's why now I just choose cars that I can equip the way I like them from the factory, can live with their factory power and 'imperfections' (and yes, I never liked that gap, but can live with it), and leave the hell alone in the engine and suspension areas. Sorry I couldn't help you more. Not trying to scare you, but if you mess with your suspension, make sure it's somebody who at least know what he's doing, has access to factory manual and torque specs, and uses a torque wrench for every bolt and nut (not a freaking impact wrench), to minimize chances of damaging anything... since warranty wouldn't cover that. Good luck.

4everkidd

iTrader: (2)

Gloss black roof, trim and 20% tint and stock rims back on because my adv.1's cracked

JT4

Great looking car..

RCFormante

iTrader: (1)

Nice! How did you managed to cracked your wheels?

johnnyreb

Thanks JC, NICE write up. I don't want to mess with the whole set up just to do that so i'll just leave her be. It would be nice to drop it just a tad but not a Deal Breaker. By the way i did do something else for the RCF though, i got her a NEW Bed to sleep on (though i still have the other side to do)!

johnnyreb

kidd, your adv.1's Cracked? WOW, what happened & are they going to replace them or was it something else?

ROK

*Solid rationale*, and for those like me enamored with a lowered look on bigger wheels and wider rubber yet doesn't want to materially compromise the stupendous F engineering team's results, you need to pick the right parts and source skilled labor that has integrity.

I'm waiting to confirm the availability of KW Variant 3s and figuring out the ideal offsets and widths for a set of 20" wheels for my RCF. I also want to ensure I have the necessary suspension components that will enable me to get back to factory alignment specs even with zero fender gap.

Here's a sketch of my budget to manifest my version of an RCF I can enjoy for a long time.

Three piece wheels by either Forgeline or HRE $7500

KWv3 adjustables $3000

FIGS suspension parts $600

Michelin Pilot Super Sports $1400

Skilled labor with integrity to install all above $1000

$14000~

4everkidd

iTrader: (2)

Cracked two of them after hitting an expansion joint on a bridge at high speed; was only sticking out about an inch but was square edged.

Cracked the inner barrel lip on both the front and rear passenger side rims.

I attempted to have them professionally repaired but both cracks came back.

Currently trying to decide if i want to make a coffee table, throw the rims out or order new inner bowls and have them refinished.

Atleast I have all winter to make a decision while she rides on bright red Volks.

4everkidd

iTrader: (2)

Mounted snow mode

RRRacing

iTrader: (1)

Guys, we will be introducing our RRRacing/Penske double adjustable coilovers very shortly. I have no problem saying they are hands down another league above KW V3's. Price will be $3600, but well worth it.


Rafi

johnnyreb

Those look Sharp, Especially on the White I Also Love the Stance of your Car

nelson143

Just installed Joe Z / PTS Exhaust today and it sounds pretty awesome and throttle response is pretty amazing.

JCtx

Did the intake mod, since I'm not touching the exhaust. This mod makes less noise than the fake noise in sport+, and it sounds more natural. Plus it sounds loud outside too, as opposed to the fake noise (inside only). Took the car on the freeway up to 90, and accelerating mildly still doesn't produce audible noise inside. It might going up hill to maintain a fast speed, but if it'd become bothersome on a trip (I really doubt it), I stored the little piece of hose inside the glove compartment (pic where it goes below). And it'd take a minute to reinstall, and problem solved. Now I drive the car in sport mode. And the good news is at least in MANUAL mode (what I always use), the shifts are just as fast (both up and down) than in sport+, so no downsides. Car is quieter than sport+ (fake noise) during mild throttle (touring, etc), but equally loud when hard on the throttle. And the sound is more natural (because it is) and satisfying. And no more quiet/loud transition at 3,800 rpm; it just gets progressively louder depending on how hard you accelerate. I'm sure my wife will notice the noise when accelerating, but shoudn't on a trip while cruising. Hope this helps if somebody wants to try it. Lexus made this car too darn quiet, but don't want the drone of an exhaust either. This is a nice compromise. And a natural one, not the sport+ fake noise. Have a good one.

4everkidd

iTrader: (2)

unplugging the sensor does the same thing

JCtx

But it throws a 'soft' code man, and don't want that. Plus you'd have to put electrical tape or something on both connectors to prevent water and grime to get inside. And zip-tie the loose connector somewhere as well. This way looks cleaner IMO. I'll have to wait until I take the car on a trip to see if I leave it that way, or put it back to stock.